Power Steering Failure in 08 Mazda3
#11
05-07-2009, 10:01 PM
Yeah, I'm at 19K miles on my 08 Mazda3, and my power steering pump just failed. The dealership basically said that this was the first case, and so it was very uncommon. But, seems like it might not be that uncommon reading this post. They gave me a new 2009 to drive, so I'm not really complaining, less depreciation on my car I guess. It'll be about a month before I get another pump, which does sound quite ridiculous to wait for a part. If my car wasn't under warranty and I wasn't getting a free car to drive, I'd be pissed for sure.
#12
05-07-2009, 10:07 PM
So, in reply to Shang, Hell yeah you should get them to pay for the power steering flush. If they didn't, I'd be making phone calls to corporate. There's something wrong with that part, and it's still under warranty, so you should definitely get a refund. I don't know much about cars, but power steering flushes on a practically new car is not routine.
#13
05-08-2009, 06:05 AM
power steering
i'm having the same problem w/my mazda 3. the dealership has had my car since april 17th, and they just called today to say that the parts are still on backorder and it will be at least 3 more weeks before i can get my car back. if i do get it back at that point, i will have been w/out it for almost 6 weeks.
i have a question, and maybe someone(s) here can offer some advice: a week prior to the power steering failing in my car, i took it in for an oil change on 4/11/09. they told me the power steering fluid was black and needed to be flushed. i paid $170.00 for them to flush it, and then 6 days later the power steering failed.
am i within my rights to ask the dealership to refund me the money i paid on having the power steering fluid flushed? i mean, if was black due to a faulty part i do not think i should be responsible for paying for the service. but perhaps i'm wrong? i've tried bringing this up twice now while on the phone when they call to update me, and they keep insisting that the power steering flush just routine maintenance and has nothing to do with the problem that now has kept my car from me for weeks.
i have a question, and maybe someone(s) here can offer some advice: a week prior to the power steering failing in my car, i took it in for an oil change on 4/11/09. they told me the power steering fluid was black and needed to be flushed. i paid $170.00 for them to flush it, and then 6 days later the power steering failed.
am i within my rights to ask the dealership to refund me the money i paid on having the power steering fluid flushed? i mean, if was black due to a faulty part i do not think i should be responsible for paying for the service. but perhaps i'm wrong? i've tried bringing this up twice now while on the phone when they call to update me, and they keep insisting that the power steering flush just routine maintenance and has nothing to do with the problem that now has kept my car from me for weeks.
Try Calling the main corporate office. The number can be found on mazdausa.com. I called them after I brought my car in to the dealer. You get a lot farther by calling them. As in my case, they are going to compensate me some how since I am making a car payment and do not have my car.
#14
05-08-2009, 01:29 PM
This is a quote from the Manual
Inspecting Power Steering Fluid
Level
CAUTION
To avoid damage to the power
steering pump, don't operate the
vehicle for long periods when the
power steering fluid level is low.
NOTE
Use specified power steering fluid (page 10-4).
Inspect the fluid level in the reservoir at
each engine oil change with the engine off
and cold. Add fluid if necessary; it does
To avoid damage to the power
steering pump, don't operate the
vehicle for long periods when the
power steering fluid level is low.
NOTE
Use specified power steering fluid (page 10-4).
Inspect the fluid level in the reservoir at
each engine oil change with the engine off
and cold. Add fluid if necessary; it does
not require periodic changing.
Last edited by Siber Express; 05-08-2009 at 01:32 PM.
#15
05-08-2009, 02:19 PM
read that also...
when the problem first happened with my car, I read the manual and saw that as well. In my case, my power steering fluid was full, i actually had more in there then maybe I should. (the dealer were the peopel who filled it too). I even checked for any leaks. It was strictly just the pump because everything else looked fine.
#16
05-08-2009, 03:14 PM
Re: Premature Failure of Late Model Mazda Power Steering.
Disclaimer: This information is provided in good faith and is for general use by Mazda owners or users subscribed to this forum only.
It does not, nor is it intended to imply that Mazda Corporation, its suppliers, agents or concessionaires are in any way responsible for any vice, deficiency, or neglect. This post may not be used for any purpose or by persons other than as is stated above.
I have a 1999 Protege 1.8L FP engine with manual transmission with 95,000 kms. odometer reading. I have the workshop manual for the year 2000 model of the same car, and which is also applicable to mine.
In the section covering the Power Steering System of this car is the following caution, which is repeated a number of times in this document.
"Caution:
If the steering wheel is kept in the fully turned position for more than 6 seconds, the fluid temperature will rise excessively and adversely affect the oil pump."
Similarly, in the section covering pressure test of the fluid pumping system requiring that the delivery outlet of the pump be connected to a pressure gauge:
"Caution:
If the valve is left closed for more than 5 seconds, the fluid temperature will rise excessively and adversly affect the oil pump."
Both manuals specify the use of hydraulic fluid ATF M-III or equivalent i.e. trademark Dexron II.
Neither in my owner's manual nor my shop manual is there a requirement to flush and replace the fluid. The procedures contained are related to fluid level, draining, bleeding and refilling, steering function inspection, pressure testing, steering wheel force, and leak testing.
Out of curiosity, I took a rubber bulb medicine drop dispenser and sucked some fluid into it for a look. The fluid was clear and a very pale tan color. There was no telltale smell typical of cooked fluid. My car has no history of steering related issues, nor has the system ever been flushed or bled.
So what is very bad for pumps is overheated fluid caused usually by excessive load on the system resulting in the pump running stalled. This to say the external load exceeds the pump's capacity to deliver, resulting in an almost constant volume of fluid being recirculated repeatedly within the pump itself, absorbing in the process almost all the energy delivered by the pump drive belt. The result is a rapid temperature rise which causes cooking of the fluid, and cooked ATF M-III is a destroyer of hydraulic systems.
Why these early failures? The evidence on this forum suggests it may be more common than anticipated; here are some factors which contribute to high loading;
The unavoidable:
Bigger engines/ beefier drive train: i.e. more weight on the front suspension.
Bigger wheels/ tires: i.e. bigger tire/road "footprint".
Bigger vehicle: i.e. requires more steering lock-to-lock low speed manoevering
when parking/ navigating in confined space.
Other bigger vehicles: more frequent need for tight low speed manoevering.
The avoidable:
Low tire pressures
Special big footprint/ supergrip tires
Turning the steering wheel at all while the vehicle is not in motion.
Applying hard full lock steering.
(This one is easy to avoid. When doing tight navigation, turn off all fans and entertainment devices; pull that bluetooth or MP3 thing out of your ear; you will now be able to hear the typical muffled distress scream of a stalled hydraulic pump. Back the wheel off just a bit and it will unstall. Once clear of obstructions turn on anything you want.)
Preventive action/ Damage control:
Check your steering fluid reservoir for more than just the level; take out the filler and filter assembly; the contents should not smell acrid or unpleasant; the color should be a clear, pinkish or very light tan. If it stinks and/or has the color of pancake syrup or darker, you've got problems. Get rid of it just as fast as you can.
Preferably you should go to a Mazda dealer; get a full report/ copy of the work order etc. etc. stating the problem, observations, and corrective action, even if your car is outside warranty. That might be handy if this problem turns out to be widespread.
If that's not practical, and you're handy; drain and flush your system thoroughly, and do a check once a week to see that there is no deterioration or loss of the fluid.
As a last resort, go to a dollar store and buy one of those turkey baster things. With the engine off, suck out as much fluid from the reservoir as you can. Refill it with new fluid, use the car for a day or two, then repeat the process until the fluid condtion improves. (You should still get the system completely drained, flushed and refilled ASAP.
Warning: Be scrupulously clean when doing this work; a minute amount of foreign stuff can do bigtime damage to hydraulic systems. Be careful not to get fluid on the paint finish; it's a real paint stripper. If you do spill some, soak it up and wash it off right away.
Disclaimer: This information is provided in good faith and is for general use by Mazda owners or users subscribed to this forum only.
It does not, nor is it intended to imply that Mazda Corporation, its suppliers, agents or concessionaires are in any way responsible for any vice, deficiency, or neglect. This post may not be used for any purpose or by persons other than as is stated above.
I have a 1999 Protege 1.8L FP engine with manual transmission with 95,000 kms. odometer reading. I have the workshop manual for the year 2000 model of the same car, and which is also applicable to mine.
In the section covering the Power Steering System of this car is the following caution, which is repeated a number of times in this document.
"Caution:
If the steering wheel is kept in the fully turned position for more than 6 seconds, the fluid temperature will rise excessively and adversely affect the oil pump."
Similarly, in the section covering pressure test of the fluid pumping system requiring that the delivery outlet of the pump be connected to a pressure gauge:
"Caution:
If the valve is left closed for more than 5 seconds, the fluid temperature will rise excessively and adversly affect the oil pump."
Both manuals specify the use of hydraulic fluid ATF M-III or equivalent i.e. trademark Dexron II.
Neither in my owner's manual nor my shop manual is there a requirement to flush and replace the fluid. The procedures contained are related to fluid level, draining, bleeding and refilling, steering function inspection, pressure testing, steering wheel force, and leak testing.
Out of curiosity, I took a rubber bulb medicine drop dispenser and sucked some fluid into it for a look. The fluid was clear and a very pale tan color. There was no telltale smell typical of cooked fluid. My car has no history of steering related issues, nor has the system ever been flushed or bled.
So what is very bad for pumps is overheated fluid caused usually by excessive load on the system resulting in the pump running stalled. This to say the external load exceeds the pump's capacity to deliver, resulting in an almost constant volume of fluid being recirculated repeatedly within the pump itself, absorbing in the process almost all the energy delivered by the pump drive belt. The result is a rapid temperature rise which causes cooking of the fluid, and cooked ATF M-III is a destroyer of hydraulic systems.
Why these early failures? The evidence on this forum suggests it may be more common than anticipated; here are some factors which contribute to high loading;
The unavoidable:
Bigger engines/ beefier drive train: i.e. more weight on the front suspension.
Bigger wheels/ tires: i.e. bigger tire/road "footprint".
Bigger vehicle: i.e. requires more steering lock-to-lock low speed manoevering
when parking/ navigating in confined space.
Other bigger vehicles: more frequent need for tight low speed manoevering.
The avoidable:
Low tire pressures
Special big footprint/ supergrip tires
Turning the steering wheel at all while the vehicle is not in motion.
Applying hard full lock steering.
(This one is easy to avoid. When doing tight navigation, turn off all fans and entertainment devices; pull that bluetooth or MP3 thing out of your ear; you will now be able to hear the typical muffled distress scream of a stalled hydraulic pump. Back the wheel off just a bit and it will unstall. Once clear of obstructions turn on anything you want.)
Preventive action/ Damage control:
Check your steering fluid reservoir for more than just the level; take out the filler and filter assembly; the contents should not smell acrid or unpleasant; the color should be a clear, pinkish or very light tan. If it stinks and/or has the color of pancake syrup or darker, you've got problems. Get rid of it just as fast as you can.
Preferably you should go to a Mazda dealer; get a full report/ copy of the work order etc. etc. stating the problem, observations, and corrective action, even if your car is outside warranty. That might be handy if this problem turns out to be widespread.
If that's not practical, and you're handy; drain and flush your system thoroughly, and do a check once a week to see that there is no deterioration or loss of the fluid.
As a last resort, go to a dollar store and buy one of those turkey baster things. With the engine off, suck out as much fluid from the reservoir as you can. Refill it with new fluid, use the car for a day or two, then repeat the process until the fluid condtion improves. (You should still get the system completely drained, flushed and refilled ASAP.
Warning: Be scrupulously clean when doing this work; a minute amount of foreign stuff can do bigtime damage to hydraulic systems. Be careful not to get fluid on the paint finish; it's a real paint stripper. If you do spill some, soak it up and wash it off right away.
#17
05-08-2009, 05:18 PM
I keep telling my wife not to turn the wheel all the way and hold it, she never listens to me.
#18
05-08-2009, 07:07 PM
Tell your wife that if she wrecks the power steering it could set you back $$$$$ bucks
(you fill in the number), then ask her what she would have done with that money if she hadn't wasted it by trashing the servo pump!
(you fill in the number), then ask her what she would have done with that money if she hadn't wasted it by trashing the servo pump!
#19
05-08-2009, 10:26 PM
The turkey baster fluid exchange is a good idea. You won't get all the old fluid out but you will get most of it out over time. Each time you remove and old fluid and replace with new you are restoring the additive package of the fluid. I have changed out the fluid on my 07 Altima at about 32,000 miles and also changed over to synthetic fluid which can handle the high heat of the hydraulic system. I also did the same with my 02 camry which now has 110,000 on it. When the Mazda gets a few more miles on it I will be changing it out also.
#20
05-16-2009, 10:29 PM
2008 Mazda 3S
So I was just about to start a new thread when I ran into this. I have a 2008 Mazda 3s with about 32,800 miles on it. I pulled in to a parking spot today, shut off the car realized the store was closed, jumped back in started up my car and the yellow steering wheel light on my dash with the exclamation point lite up. My power steering when. I could barely turn the wheel. I waited 10 minutes, started the car back up and the same thing happened. I called Mazda Roadside assistance and they sent a tow. When they showed up an hr later I started it up to show them and it worked. The tow truck driver showed me the pump which I could not find since I thought it was connected to the main belt. Our pumps our now. There is a little canister and it is a little electric motor that spins and produces pressure and that is what delivers the power to steer the car. It seems so underpowered and no one believe me that my power steering pump was electric and now power by the belt. I am unhappy with this design and do not like it. Seems it has caused more problems for people. I am demanding they replace this part anyways if it died once, it will die again and I don't want it happening while I am driving with my wife in the car on a side street and it causes me to crash. Did anyone else realize it was a little electric motor that powers our steering?
Does anyone else think I am being unreasonable about asking them to inspect the unit thoroughly and asking them to replace it? Any input is appreciated.
Brandon
Does anyone else think I am being unreasonable about asking them to inspect the unit thoroughly and asking them to replace it? Any input is appreciated.
Brandon