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hello i saw @Callisto thread , i enjoy it so much and i would like to learn from you all iam amazed by your work and i would like to share with you my knowledge too
QUOTE]This drain plug magnet is CRAZY strong[/QUOTE] wouldn't these two magnet affect transmission electromagnetic slenoid and therefore shift feel ?
2- how effective is it in collecting iron could you provide a picture 3- are there 3rd party tests regarding rust and thermal ability of the plug ----------
Thought I would install one of my new clamps and give it a test run before replacing all of them.
how its compared to oem clamps
what is the precentage of petrified water in your coolant ? i run 35 antifreeze \ 65 distilled , i plan to changed it every 2 years according to
dozens of forum on a technical advisory and as a common DIY
could you please send the link i would like to apply them ----------------
test using an oscilloscope and never ever once found an advantage to using any other kind of spark plug
but we tried mazda ( probably denso )iridium on skyactiv for 161k , 118k miles without any missfire or slow acceleration what are the side effect from delaying replacing it after oem recommendation if the spark plug in good condition visually ?
- if there is a link for your test please send it --------------
but
1- most of gunk is in the caliper why would you push it to the entire system
2- how would it bass abs vavle ?
3- what do you think about flushing brake fluid every 3 years in desert dry climate
4- how to activate abs pump to extract more old fluid
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regular routine checking brake fluid.
how many years does the stipes recommend to bleed brake fluid ?
we opened factory transmission filter after 102k miles and it has wasnt clogged and no metal glutter
i suggest drop the transmission pan and change the filter in the first change then change 4.2 quart from dipstik by vaccume every 25-37k miles what do you think?
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transmission cooler project
-is it necessary to know transmission oil pressure before and after cooler installation?
- i would like to apply the cooler in my car but i have no idea how to choose the right sizes , materials
1- i have mazda 3 2015 arab gulf version and it comes with engine oil cooler from factory with oil temperature range from 187 - 197 F acording to obd forscan but i dont know if its accurate or calculated based on coolant temp
2-what is the optimum engine oil and transmission fluid temp
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50 real Horsepower increase with NO ECU
wouldn't harm the engine ? because it has 13:1 compression ratio
Quote:
I run K&N for a Cabin as well intake air cleaner .
I choose the viscosity oil used in this engine
why dont you choose oil that has high HTHS WITH LOW saps like dexos 1gen 2 or dexos 2 or mb229.51 & mb229.31 or bmw longlife 04 or vw 505\507 because they have low saps and Noack volatility
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wouldn't redline cv-2 grease harm caliper pin rubber boot because its not silicon based ?
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recently i notice that our flywheel has opening , while mazda added plastic cover to it according to this tsb to prevent rear engine oil seal leak
, should i cover it with filter media or fabricate plastic cover ?
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Quote:
T-stat to a 170F(thats 76.6667c
but does affect fuel consumption or radiatior fan operation or coolant lines pressure?
normal factory fan with a\c on work for 16 seconds > off 4seconds > work for 16s
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modified can catch
does catch can, pros more than its cons?
1-because there is air oil separator from the factory under intake manifold
2- it will increase crank case pressure that will increase the chances of oil leak , hotter oil , reduce oil life because nox blow by gases doesnt exit crank case fastly
3- will reduce 2nd line of protection agains dust which is oil mist in intake manifold
mine is having mild oil mist leak , how important its to be fixed ?
what will happen if i dont fix it ?
what is the size of the engine oil cap o- ring
----- i have seen someone cleaning this with fuel , is it good practice?
if fuel is bad what should i use ?
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Water / Methanol nozzle
1-how can water clean intake valve deposit because its made out of hydrophobic material
2- would water contaminate engine oil ?
3- what is the best chemical to manually clean intake valves i tried injector cleaner , brake cleaner and carb cleaner which was slow to clean
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- i have seen 4 catastrophic engine failure of 2.5 skyactiv-g N\A
becase of lower cylinder block bolt snapped
- i asked an owner of one of them he had 140k miles , been using mobil 5w30 ESP change it every 6k miles and in the last few thousands miles he used shell helix 0w20 GTL , he increase rpm to 7k , didnt have any miss-fire before the block broke , no previous accidents ,
- hypothesis causes are : long term miss-fires , high load , poor quality of bolt material , overtightening during manufacturing ,
how to prevent it because its difficult to replace because i have to remove lower cylinder block completely to replace the rtv
, what are the causes
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can i use alcohol or contact cleaner spray instead of maf cleaner even though maf cleaner has less concentration and doesn't contain any rust prevention like contact cleaner
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after 37k miles
after 62 miles
after 84k miles
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56k miles
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after 272k miles
after seeing these examples , when to replace fuel filters?
Last edited by rotary 13b; Feb 18, 2023 at 08:59 AM.
You have a lot of questions? My thread had a disclaimer in the firt post which was very important to read and understand because I did not want in anyway to have a technical Q&A..
Originally Posted by Callisto
I wanted to do a thread for FUN on the projects I.... ops I meant the wife and I will be doing to the MAZDA. Please keep in mind this is not going to be a technical thread in any way. Some of what we do may to some seem ridicules, in-practical, unreasonable, functionally questionable and down right insane but hey its our MAZDA right? Besides all of us like to do things the way we want anyway.
Also a WARNINGdo not attempt to copy what we do to our MAZDA unless you truly believe I know what I am doing and can duplicate the project in every detail. And I have been told so often in my life that I don't know what I am doing so maybe better just look at my pictures and have a good laugh on me with my fun with my MAZDA.
Many of your question are to explosive on many forums to answer without great debates and arguments. I also see that most of your pictures of parts are from an engine that may have note been taken care of very well.
I have been building complete Race car, street Rods and a few other things since the late 70's. Since the internet has become the "GO_TO" for all information good bad and other I can't keep up with all the bad information that gets posed about what works and does not.
The universal and basic rule is if you keep up n all aspects of maintenance many of the questionable servicing will keep your complete vehicle tunning in top condition. Nit picking on say air filters as one example is IMHO ridiculous as well in the real world has very little consequences on an engine that is as I said maintain better than average and very sooner that what repair manuals and even factory service schedules recommend. Asking for prof all the time is also IMHO ridiculous because someone will always have proof to argue the opposite of even empirical Data and information.
So while you have some good questions I believe that you must choose to the best of your research what will best work for you.
If you get into a problem doing any of your chosen projects I am sure that either myself or a couple of skilled and experienced members here can help.