I think this link makes reference to it:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

I have also been spending time learning from the Oil Geeks of the world at www.bobistheoilguy.com

They have forum page after page of Virgin Oil Analysis (VOA) and Used Oil Analysis (UOA) and will tell you that color has nothing to do with the life remaining in the oil. It should actually turn dark at some point in its life or it not removing the crap from the engine. If the engine is new or super clean a dark oil isn't expected.

In the test on the link above, Mobil 1 last 18,000 miles before it failed the UOA and was changed. The Amsoil was still good at 14,000 miles after a year (manufactures limit) but had gone from a 5w-30 to a 15w-15 weight oil killing economy.

 

I've checked this link, I guess I am missing what you are referring to.

You drain used oil from your oil pan, put fresh oil in your oil pan, and then you start the car. Since you do an oil change with your motor warm, there should be a protective film of oil on the cylinder walls because you just shut the motor off. What's disturbed? Why would the new oil - teeming with fresh lubricants and devoid of dirt - lubricate less well than whatwas just drained?

Iam with Virgin1, all I have ever heard is the cold start causes the wear, the colder the ambient temp the more the wear. The reason why, at least in the old days, many car owners living in the midwest or northeast used thinner oil in winter.

I have readsimilar tothe above about using synthetic to reduce oil changes, which is why I am sticking with conventional, and going with normal oil change intervals. I think there is value in getting the dirt out more often (and getting a new clean filter).

 

If you look at the wear patterns, both the Mobil 1 and Amsoil showed more wear in the first 3,000 miles than they did after that point. I have heard this theory more than once. I will be running synthetic with 5,000 OCI without worry of going a little over because I doubt Mazda could void the warranty for anything under the 7,500 OCI that is for normal driving without proving that the oil had failed which is virtually impossible under normal use.

As for the "film" I'm not an expert, but I think that some of the additives aredesigned to put a film on the engine parts andchanging the oil somehow disturbs it. Ithink that it might be a valid theory if the oil brand/type is changedwhich means a different additive package. This is why I plan to run the same oil throughout the life of the engine and hope that the manufacture stays consistent.

My main reason for wanting synthetic oil is the rpm in the turbo and its better tollerance to heat. It might not make any measurable difference, but it makes me feel better.

 

I actually considering running 5w-30 Synthetic Maxlife because it contains more anti-wear additives than normal oil and is "thicker" in grade. I am consulting the "oil geeks" about this plan. ITHINK the seal conditioners may just be Group IV (PE)base oils which is the primary base oil in Redline.

 

Do you mean the first 3,000 miles that the engine was ever run (ie. when the car is brand new)?

If so, yes, I agree, I have heard and read in many places you should not use synthetic when an engine is in its virginal period (the first2-3 K).

 

Actually, there have been tests that show additional wear during the first 3,000 miles of an extended OCI. It is almost like the oil become stable over time. During the initial 3,000 miles there is significantly more wear from the break-in to be sure. The test in the link above showed more wear during the first 3k with both the Mobil 1 and then the Amsoil. The Mobil 1 went to 18k so the engine should have been broken in enough to any effects from that.

 

It takes more than 3,000 miles for the oil to start delivering full protection? Makes me want to NOT use that oil.