Mazda3 wireless remote fails after fuse box replacement?
#11
This is because you need at least one working key and you have zero working keys, OR do they mean remote and not key? This is where things get a bit confusing since to me the "key" is also my "remote" one and the same on my end. The way I read it is I need one working key to program another, if I had your problem I would assume I had NO working "keys" since the remotes arent working. Does this make sense to anyone? LOL
The keys work the same as they ever did - I can physically insert them into the door to let myself in, and I can physically insert them into the ignition to start the car. Nothing appears to have changed.
However, the remotes both stopped working after the swap of the glove-compartment fuse box. The remote reprogramming procedure described above did not work for either one of the remotes.
My current plan is to swap in yet another (second replacement) fuse box, also from eBay, and then try the remote reprogramming procedure again, but I'm open to all suggestions.
#12
Originally Posted by zola84
Remote reprogramming does not work for me - Step 6 doesn't happen as described above.
What happens instead is that after waiting in vain for Step 6, I eventually close the door, and then the ECU power locks/unlocks the doors three times in quick succession. Same thing, several times, with both my keys.
Maybe my best bet at this point is to try another used eBay fuse box and see if it's any different.
What happens instead is that after waiting in vain for Step 6, I eventually close the door, and then the ECU power locks/unlocks the doors three times in quick succession. Same thing, several times, with both my keys.
Maybe my best bet at this point is to try another used eBay fuse box and see if it's any different.
Originally Posted by MazdaTirol
This is because you need at least one working key and you have zero working keys, OR do they mean remote and not key? This is where things get a bit confusing since to me the "key" is also my "remote" one and the same on my end. The way I read it is I need one working key to program another, if I had your problem I would assume I had NO working "keys" since the remotes arent working. Does this make sense to anyone? LOL
For key programming you need two working keys. For remote programming you need one working key.
OP, since you're having issues with the cigarette lighter as well I'll renew my suggestion that you unplug each large plug on the PJB and then make sure it's fully reseated before pushing down on the locking arm. At the very least try this out before going through the hassle of buying another PJB. If you just stick the plug in and expect the lock arm to push everything together you'll likely get a poor connection somewhere.
#14
Took it to the dealership. After a lot of research and experimentation, they told me that I had the wrong part - I needed a PJB whose part number included "BAN6" or "BN8D," and the replacement eBay part I'm currently using does not have those digits, even though it appears to work in every other way.
So I bought another PJB off eBay, this time checking the part number carefully. I just received it - will install next week.
Takeaway: Mazda produces many parts that are visually and functionally similar - but not identical. So be sure you have the right part for your car. (Perhaps you can call the dealer to get the part number.)
So I bought another PJB off eBay, this time checking the part number carefully. I just received it - will install next week.
Takeaway: Mazda produces many parts that are visually and functionally similar - but not identical. So be sure you have the right part for your car. (Perhaps you can call the dealer to get the part number.)
Last edited by zola84; 02-24-2013 at 06:29 PM.
#15
I enquired at work and found out the exact same thing, the plugs are all the same but the internals and programming can be different to meet different spec levels and options all around the world.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post