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Mazda3 wireless remote fails after fuse box replacement?

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  #1  
Old 01-08-2013, 02:55 PM
zola84's Avatar
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Default Mazda3 wireless remote fails after fuse box replacement?

2006 Mazda3i with 80,000 miles. Replaced the under-the-glovebox fuse box to fix headlights that would not turn off. Found the part for $30 on eBay, much better than the $650 retail price. Headlights turn off now. Very pleased for a few minutes.

Since the swap, I find that my keyless remote has stopped working - both of them, so it's not the battery. Internal power lock button still works.

Owner's manual lists two fuses relating to "power door locks." Pulled both - they both look fine.

What could be causing the remote to fail?
 
  #2  
Old 01-09-2013, 12:00 AM
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It sounds like you have to re-pair the keys to the car, here is an excerpt from another thread here: "For remotes: As long as you have a single working key you can program in remotes (up to three) yourself. It's a process of turn the ignition on/off, opening/closing the driver's door and pushing the lock/unlock button on the door. Not difficult, just a bunch of steps. Again with the remotes I can't say for sure which remotes you need. In the US the KEU was changed in 2007 and newer models need a different remote. The older remotes can be had for ~$35 USD while the newer ones cost over $100 USD. I'd just confirm the remote you need from your dealer and get the visteon numbers from the back of it. Then go shopping online and find one cheap and make sure it has the right numbers. Many online retailers will advertise a remote's functionality across all years and models either out of malice or stupidity."

If both your remotes arent working it sounds like you have to go to the dealer to have them use their computer to reprogram your computer to accept the remotes.
 
  #3  
Old 01-09-2013, 09:42 PM
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Thanks. I know about Mazda's overpriced key re-pairing process, but before I fork over my $$$ to the dealer, I'd like to understand why/how changing the fuse box would unpair my existing keys. That seems very strange - and I don't see it documented anywhere. Almost as bad design as embedding the headlight relay in that expensive box to begin with.

To ask a slightly different question, how can I tell that my keys were (just) unpaired, and that the fuse box swap didn't break something?
 
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:22 PM
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Just to clarify. Did the KEYS stop working, or the REMOTES? Both terms seems to be thrown out there and they're not really interchangeable.

You do not need to go to the dealer to program the remotes, you can do that yourself as long as you have one working key. I'm not sure why replacing the PJB would unpair them as the KEU is in the headliner. Oh well. I would definitely confirm that all of the plugs on the PJB are completely and fully seated. Are there any other systems related to the same plug as the power locks which are flakey?

Programming instructions:
Step 1: Open driver side door and leave open.

Step 2: Lock and Unlock the drivers door using the power door lock switch on the door

Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.

Step 4: Turn Key to ON position and return to Lock (off) position. *Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. LEAVE key in the ignition in Lock (off) position.

Step 5: Close and open the drivers door 3 times. Leave door open after this step

Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors once.

Step 7: Press any button on remote #1 twice. *ECU responds by locking and unlocking the car doors.

Step 8: Additional remotes, repeat Step 7 for up to 3 remotes total.

Step 9: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series (about 4) of door locks and unlocks. You're done!
 
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:07 AM
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I believe the remote key-less entry is controlled via the BCM/BEM. In the Mazda 3 the BCM/BEM is incorporated into the interior fuse-box. Hence the reason for reprogramming.
 
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:02 AM
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^^ hopefully reprogramming works for him then.
 
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:36 PM
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The remotes have both stopped working - I cannot lock or unlock my car doors from a distance.

The keys work to physically unlock the driver door or to start the ignition.

Let me try out this reprogramming - thank you.

(I notice my cigarette lighter recharger has also stopped working with the fuse box swap - a bigger inconvenience than it might seem, since that's what powers the external GPS (aka phone). Let's see whether it's a fuse ...)

Does your Mazda3 include a fuse-puller in the cover of the fuse box? Mine didn't, and none of the auto parts stores carry one that fits. So I have to struggle with tweezers, which is really a pain.
 

Last edited by zola84; 01-11-2013 at 02:17 PM.
  #8  
Old 01-11-2013, 03:46 PM
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Remote reprogramming does not work for me - Step 6 doesn't happen as described above.

What happens instead is that after waiting in vain for Step 6, I eventually close the door, and then the ECU power locks/unlocks the doors three times in quick succession. Same thing, several times, with both my keys.

Maybe my best bet at this point is to try another used eBay fuse box and see if it's any different.
 
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by zola84
The remotes have both stopped working - I cannot lock or unlock my car doors from a distance.

The keys work to physically unlock the driver door or to start the ignition.

Let me try out this reprogramming - thank you.

(I notice my cigarette lighter recharger has also stopped working with the fuse box swap - a bigger inconvenience than it might seem, since that's what powers the external GPS (aka phone). Let's see whether it's a fuse ...)

Does your Mazda3 include a fuse-puller in the cover of the fuse box? Mine didn't, and none of the auto parts stores carry one that fits. So I have to struggle with tweezers, which is really a pain.
So, you have keyless entry, and remote start? The transponder my have a loss of power, or need reset.
 
  #10  
Old 01-11-2013, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by zola84
Remote reprogramming does not work for me - Step 6 doesn't happen as described above.

What happens instead is that after waiting in vain for Step 6, I eventually close the door, and then the ECU power locks/unlocks the doors three times in quick succession. Same thing, several times, with both my keys.

Maybe my best bet at this point is to try another used eBay fuse box and see if it's any different.
This is because you need at least one working key and you have zero working keys, OR do they mean remote and not key? This is where things get a bit confusing since to me the "key" is also my "remote" one and the same on my end. The way I read it is I need one working key to program another, if I had your problem I would assume I had NO working "keys" since the remotes arent working. Does this make sense to anyone? LOL
 


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