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I did a test drive and noticed only a slight increase in firmness of normal straight line driving and going around a test curve only noted .07% increase in anti-sway. This was on the firm setting. I think that other using this bar would get a better increase in anti-sway percentage because my Mazda 3 is several hundred pounds heavier then stock because of the sound demeaning material through out the body and the added stereo equipment which is the sub-woofer enclosure in the trunk with 2, 12' s .
IMHO after I install the Cork Sport adjustable High Pressure shocks and struts the ebach sway bar will compliment them very well.
As previous mentioned I do have a full strut, shock ,air bag and spring for a future project to install I wanted something now to compliment the ebach sway bar i just installed. So I rummaged through my part in my garage and found a set of NIB KYB gas-adjust (I think they were for my Explorer?) that are only 1.75 longer then the stock shocks and same shaft and thread diameter. So having left over RED caliper paint from painting the calipers on the Mazda (another install project another day) I shoot the "fuggly" color silver shocks upgrading their looks to RED!
I still need to find my stock of polyurethane bump stops and I am pretty sure I have a RED motorcycle front fork boot that I can use to cover and protect the shock?
So maybe Tuesday I can get these shocks mounted?
We all have to have some fun stuff modding our car that is not the normal stuff.. For me it is covering up the factory none removable visor decals. No one really reads them in the first place. But should you look up you may see mine?
Well the triple digit summer temperatures have started early this year so it time to change out the Thermostat. When the warmer temperatures start I always swap out the T-stat to a 170F(thats 76.6667c in those other countries) to help control all the temperatures and keep it below 200F. Yes this works for me and NO I don ot get any DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) Nor does the engine remain in "open loop" (The engine runs in "open loop" when first started, before the oxygen sensors come up to operating temperature. It basically means the fuel is being metered with MAP/MAF as the primary input... ). It warms up about the same time with the standard 180F [size=13px]thermostat[/size] and goes into "closed loop". (Engine warmed up, fuel is metered by an active feedback loop with the O2 sensor, known as closed-loop operation)
To be clear I am not suggesting or recommending this change to anyone. Also I would really not like to talk about generally for others on the will it work or don't do it because this is one of those things that "it [size=13px]worked[/size] for me" ,and has worked for me for the last few years in my 2018 Mazda 3 2.5 ATX!
Well I installed the none-applicated KYB gas-adjust rear shocks. It took a little longer then I figured only because Rock Auto sent my the catalog incorrectly upper shock mount. So I had to use the OEM ones. But they were in near perfect condition anyway. Also the Energy bump[ stops I ordered would not work with the funky upper shock mount so I just modified the stock bumpstock and shaft cover. It all worked well useing the RED boot covers on the OEM covers.
The test ride was un- impressionable but I will go to my test road section and see what the D-pic reads out for the "G"s.
Why haven't you fitted you painted calipers yet???
Also I have never heard of anyone, anywhere swapping thermostats over between summer & winter. I'm sorry, but you are odd.
It will be an all day or 2 project to install them and the CorkSport suspension along with the airbag system with dual reading/adjusting gauges. And then coordinate the install around the shop that will be doing the alignment.
My other car is down with a oil filter adapter leak so at the moment the Mazda is the main daily driver.
I am also in the small project tinkering mood as well. The rear cam, my oil spray system a few small interior projects and the front grill emblem. I am tired driving around with nothing there. It looks bad. lol
Last edited by Callisto; Jun 11, 2020 at 09:19 AM.
Well I have officially removed /de-badged everything on the exterior of my MAZDA that indicates what it is. And I have finally added my custom one off grill badge that will give some a bit of confusion about what my car is? hehehehe!
Purchased new at the end of 2018 Mazda3 Touring and immediately started modding.
Since we all know what a stock bodied Mazda3 looks like I thought I would start my thread with the body mods.
I will say that i may be posting pictures with the stock hood back on while in the process of attaching my FUNCTIONAL CAI I engineered and designed for my car.
This was my first few pictures on my thread here when I just finished some of my body work which included the addition of a hood scoop. Unfortunately this hood in the picture was damaged to the point of discarding it in less then a week after it was finished.
I am returning to the project again and will be adding this to my hood. I need the hood for not only the looks but for the part of another project I had been working on. Hopefully I will be able to finish by the end of July?
Up until now I have not used the temperature gauge I installed months ago. Although it is original used as a a single sensor gauge I have installed a on-off-on switch to be able to read between 2 separate senders. One sender will be installed in the automatic transmission pan when I do the first filter service dropping the pan @ 30,000 miles. I will also be sending a sample of that oil to be *analyzed. *https://www.blackstone-labs.com/engi.../transmission/
A quest was asked via PM so I am posting my response here.
Yes I run a front and rear camera.
They are both Rexing V1-HD Ultra HD cameras set up with GPS and WIFI apt and intruder alert when I park to record a violation or to automatically activate with the arm system.
The rear does well considering it recording through 5% window tint, the rear glass heater strips and the glare from the rear shelf.
The rear camera screen is activate automatically on start and shuts off in 30 seconds. I no longer have the center brake light which actually obscured more of the viewing out the back window then the rear camera as it is mounted.
The small flat black vinyl was to cover the removal of tint for the base camera mounting plate.
Last edited by Callisto; Jun 19, 2020 at 01:42 PM.
Summertime "KOOLS" !
