Hello everyone. I have 2007 Mazda 3 i Sedan with 116k miles on it. The A/C doesn't seem to want to kick in. The A/C relay is fine, and I do not hear or see the A/C clutch engage. My guess is the refrigerant level is low, but I cannot tell if the compressor isn't turned on. I read using a paperclip to jump the relay will force it to engage, but what pins do I use? I'm just trying to troubleshoot the problem before taking it to a Professional (if required). Thanks you all of your help!

We ended up taking it to a professional. He fixed the A/C, the problem ended up being a broken wire to the compressor. I never did figure out how to force the A/C clutch to engage, not that it matters to me now. (besides, even if I did know, the broken wire wouldn't have allowed the forcing of the clutch)

 

Right. The compressor will not kick on if the refridgerent level is too low... or too high for that matter.
As for the paper clip trick.... hmmm.... dangerous. I wouldn't try it if I were you.

It may be time for a professional, however don't let them take you for a ride either.
From my experience, pros tend to want to replace everything in the system to be "on the safe side," whether or not those components are serviceable or not. Refuse anything they might recommend that sounds "wrong" to you.
If the car does need hard parts, and you are mechanical, replace them yourself, then take it back for another leak check and charge. I guarentee you will save up to 3x's the cost of having them do it... and it might only take you a few hours at most.

Case in point: When my wife's old Saturn had trouble, I got an estimate of $1150 for the job. The car was barely worth that as a whole car, so I said no way!!
So I took the estimate home, ordered exactly the same parts online for under $200, including a new receiver/dryer and installed them all in less than 3 hrs in my driveway. And I had to feel my way through the install because I had no idea what I was getting into, so had I known, it might have taken me less time.
I put in just enough r134a to get the compressor running (less than a full can,) ran it for a few days like that, then had the shop do a full recharge to get it back up to spec. It worked great until the car finally died 4 yrs later, and I saved a BUNCH 'o' money. The whole job cost us less than $300, and actually the hoses were all good. Had I known then that a universal o-ring kit was available for under $6 I could have saved even more.

 

Thank you for your response, I can only hope I'll get as lucky as you and save myself some money. If you don't mind, what is the specifics on the paperclip trick, we just want to see of the clutch is plugged in and the wiring is ok. Trust me, the paperclip is not going to stay in there permanently, just to test. (and it helps determine the refrigerent levels and leaks)

 

Personally, I have no idea, though I'm sure it has something to do with overriding/shorting the relay. Since theses and all modern cars are so controlled by the PCM, you would be taking a big risk IMO. Shorting across any electrical connections could do serious and unrepairable damage to the PCM which would be a much bigger and more costly fix.
Any test that involves a paper clip cannot be sanctioned and I wouldn't try it.
The chances the clutch is in some way inoperative is unlikely. It's much more likely the low pressure switch that is not allowing the compressor clutch to engage.

 

Alright, thank you for your help. I guess we will wait and see what happens. Atm I'm not sure when my dad is going to take it somewhere to be looked at, it's not a high priority until summer. (Texas heat is a killer!) I'll report back if we find something, if anyone here who has any suggests, please post them.

 

Oh I know all about Texas summers, "Location: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin," and this last one was a killer!!

I could look it up, but where in TX are you?

 

I'm down here around San Antonio, so I don't live too far. Thanks for looking it up, I haven't been successful so far.

 

We took the car to the mechanic from where we purchased the car. He said the problem is within the A/C controller. I have no idea what he means because he keeps changing the story and not giving a clear answer. Anyway, do you know where the low pressure switch is located? A picture would be most helpful.