I installed a cold air intake in my mazda 3 2005 2.3L and it cause my check engine to come on I did take the negative battery term off and reconnected it during the install proccess, then I took it out and put the stock back in to see if it would go off and it doesn't. My car isn't accellerating that well anymore. since the intake install. Anyone know what could be wrong and what to do so I can install the intake? My friend said it's probably the fuel air ration that's messed up???

 

when you took the negative cable off the battery how long did you leave it off. you need to leave it off for 15 minutes and push the brake a few times to make sure all the capacitors have drained then reconnect and it should be back to normal. if not then most likely the check engine light is for some other problem.

 

Thanks for the tip I'll give it a shot

 

FYI....I've seen complaints about CEL's being thrown due to Cold Air Intakes. (Some models) I believe it had something to do with the positioning of the MAF sensor (distance to the throttle body needs to be as close to stock as possible).

 

well I tried that and it didn't work I'm not accelerating well at all and my check engine is on still since the install I even went back to stock, and it's still acting up.

 

you know what I'm having problems with my intake too. its been on for a while and now whenever the AC or defroster is on the rpm drops down to 500 then goes back up to 750-1000. the rpm would continuously go back and forth and the car would sputter sometimes.. the car died out once (ITS AN AUTOMATIC) but no CEL at all. does anyone know what could be the problem?

any help would be great. THANKS IN ADVANCE.

 

i have the same problem, i have a 04 2.3 automatic... with injen cold air intake, i've knowist that if i run my car with out being heated up first the engine light kickes in.... once i drive it... i usually have to leave my car running for like 10min before driving it..

 

my aem one is doing fine right now, but when the cel did come on i just disconnected both battery terminals, just taking off the neg one and pumping brakes seems to not work on these cars (or atleast mine). When i put the terminals back on the cel is gone and the car idels like at 500 for a while, and be fine. The only time i had a real problemwith mine is when water had gotten into it, and the maf got dirty, and the car bogged at 3k, 4k, and 45k, and the cel never went off, i ended up checking the code and it said that i was running lean and the maf sensor wasent getting enough voltage (or something) so i just cleaned it with electric cleaner, reset the ecu and it was running perfect.

 

I think I read somewhere that you could go to Autozone and they'll scan it for you. Not that it's any help but I didn't have any problems with my Simota TC intake except getting all that funky airbox crap out of the way. I think the scanner has to be CAN compatible.