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#11

06-30-2010, 10:08 AM

kkilgore

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Join Date: Jun 2010

Location: Huron, Ohio

Posts: 37

Now if you bypass the coolant for the throttle body can you hook it back up or is it going to be a one time deal? ( For those of us who do have winter)

#12

06-30-2010, 06:33 PM

Tracker

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from what i hear its reversible

#13

06-30-2010, 06:46 PM

virgin1

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Location: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)

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It is quite reversable. It is merely one hose connected to another bypassing the ETB. To reverse it, simply discconect from each other and reconnect to the ETB.

#14

07-01-2010, 02:35 AM

kkilgore

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Location: Huron, Ohio

Posts: 37

Well that sounds like a good mod then, bypass that and put in a K&N filter and you now have a half way decent intake.

#15

07-01-2010, 03:23 AM

virgin1

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Well, yes and no.
No one I know has seen any increase in power doing it... kinda' like the "grounding" craze. I tried that too with no noticeable difference.
The K&N will get you no where either, nor will the airbox mod... except for a little extra "noise."
Sadly, there is no known cheap way to mod these cars. If you want performance increases, you're going to have to pay for them... and most of them are small increases at that.
You could try to timing mod and see if what that gets you? I'm still running with that w/no negative effects, and no cost either.

#16

07-02-2010, 09:53 PM

shipo

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DBMAZDA, apparently you're not the sharpest knife in the drawer as 90% of what you've written on this board has been crap, and my bet is the 10% you got right was just luck.

#17

07-04-2010, 10:42 AM

Tracker

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Quote:

Originally Posted by dbmazda

Yes it would be better to make an ram intake. There was a photo I ran across once, the guy put an hole thru the headlight, taking out the turn signal. Then he put a pipe that went into the air box.
I did not want to do that. What if it rained, all the water being sucked in!
Gutting the air box & with a K&N I noticed it did make a difference, I had more torque. Anything 5X the size of the stock inlet is good for breathing at
low RPMs & it is a free mod.

Spark plug wise, I use NGK BEK6EK. An open gap type like Bosch +2 plugs,
but without that little small wire that melts into the hole when it gets hot!
I used E3 & they kind of worked but quenched the fire a bit for me.
Also used NKG ZFR6F-11 plugs they stick out a bit worked good, like advancing your spark a bit.
Also used Bosch non resistor spark plugs F8DC4 with the gap set wider.
Then I cut the ground a small bit. That worked good! But the RFI made my
air bag light go on at about 3000 RPMS. Not good I thought.
So now I stay between the 2 NGK plugs. I like the BKR plugs best right now. I use a higher octane gas & all runs good now.

I did not say to Remove the butterfly valve, my Nissan did not go wide open when floored so I adjusted it so it did. Mazdas are ok on that.

Gutting the cat helps but it messes up the system you will have to do so much to make it work without being lean! With out those 2 bricks in the exhaust, it will get out faster you will have more velocity with it.
unless you have a bigger exhaust pipe then that will slow the exhaust down.
People that did it noticed it was flowing faster out.

There is one mod that I did. That works still today for me.
There is a better way to do it but for me I pulled out my thermostat
& cut the part that holds in the valve & spring, took it out leaving
the frame. Also added Red-line water wetter.
All the coolant now flows to the radiator. The engine now runs cooler.
Personalty for every one I would just get a 165 deg thermostat that is the best way! I heard of a lot of RX-7s running with out the thermostat out
in the heat like in the desert.

1. Ok fine ill go with the free ram intake, but hey if you dont increase the size of the tube going to the tb it makes no difference how big a hole is before the filter at that point your just removing the restrictions from the stupid bends therfore adding response which is negated by the electronic tb that compensates by slowly opening the throttle plate no matter how fast or hard you press on your gas pedal.

2. Again shortening the ground will cause extreme amounts of backfeed when it fires, increasing the chance of destroying a coil-on-plug system, your battery, and any other important electrical systems, electricity takes the past of least resistance so by cutting the ground it allows for a more wilder uncontrolled spark.

3. Again gutting cats is a horrible idea, cars that are mostly stock require a decent amount of backpressure in order for them to produce a decent amount of tq, yes of course removing the material is going to increase flow but again its going to cut down on the tq, its just like having a 4-1 instead of 4-2-1 header, the 4-2-1 is going to perform better because its able to help make power through the whole rpm while the 4-1 will only help in the higher rpm and at that point you only have 2k rpms left to rev out and with a mostly stock car hindered by all the electronic bs you would be playing catch up in a race.

All of these "theories" you have MAY work on older cars or ones that are not as bs as the 3 but i can guarantee you that most of your suggestions is doing nothing more than just destroying oem components