Thanks a lot for the valuable info. The car is 2009 but only clocked 37000kms. I might write to mazda to see if I can get them to agree on anything ( pretty much doubt it). Thanks again

 

Hi there,

I'm having the same code issue with my mazda. The code is C0020 and we've had it confirmed that the ABS pump motor is the culprit after having all three lights (ABS, Traction control, and iStop) going off and on for quite some time. Its funny that they lights will go off when I do a hard right U turn, does that make sense to you? Anyway we are looking into our options and cant really afford to go the $1700 plus labour to get it replaced so we are looking at reconditioned or second hand. My husband and son have quite a bit of mechanical knowledge but aren't experts. You mentioned in this thread that it may not be possible to re programme it to a different car. The thread is old so I was wondering if you have any further information on if it is possible to install a second hand or reconditioned unit and for it to work?. Any advice would be hugely appreciated. Cheers

 

Not sure what to do either. I'm hoping/thinking it's a minor issue, but it looks like I'll have to take my 2010 Mazda 3 to a dealer, and the repair will be around 2K. Doesn't seem worth it....braking is fine, but I need to know if it's safe to drive the car with these 3 codes reading (C0002, C0020, C0082)

 

My 2010 Mazda 3, 6-speed manual 2.5 L has had the ABS and TC lights on since November, as well as the "brake" warning light. I'm told it's the ABS Control Module...IF that's the case, I won't likely repair that. The car has 210K miles, but it's a great car and I'd like to keep it, if possible. The 2nd issue has happened 7 times. Always in cold weather. The steering is sometimes sluggish for a few secs when I start the car (power steering fluid is full and clean/new) and the tire pressure light comes on. This is just for a few seconds. After a few minutes of driving, the car hesitates/shudders, and the speedometer drops to zero and doesn't work. Normally, when I pull over, check the tightness of the gas cap (which I just replaced) and re-start, the car works fine. Could a bad speed sensor and/or a fuse be causing all this? I'm getting the coedes: C0002, 0082, and 0020, and occasionally U0415 and I think 0614. When the speedometer drops out, I normally get the generic "check engine" light for a day or 2, before it goes off. I averaged 40 mpg on a 2-hour round trip on Sunday (just after the speedometer stalled and I re-started--I coast into traffic lights...you might be frustrated if you're behind me! ), and the car ran beautifully. Any suggestions? Family is pressuring me to move on and buy a 2019/20 Mazda 3 or an Elantra. Manual, of course!