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I have a 2006 mazda3 2.3L with a broken dipstick. The top of the dipstick snapped off when I tried to check the oil level recently. I tried the screw into the top trick, but it wouldn't budge. I'm going to soak the top in PB Blaster and try again in a few days. Is there a method that I haven't tried yet. I could take off cam cover and try to get at it this way, but I would prefer a less labor intensive method. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
I would try easing it out with 2 very small blade screwdrivers and slowly rocking it side to side. Once you get a small bit protruding you should be able to grab it with a set of vyce grips.
Have you tried using compressed air? Is the dipstick tube removable from the engine block? I am not familiar with the Mazda 3 engine specifically, so not sure if the dipstick tube is bolted into the engine block or not.
If you use compressed air, you may need to disconnect some vacuum hoses and block them to prevent pressure loss within the crankcase.
The dipstick is in the PLASTIC valve cover, so aggressive methods would damage it. I'm going to let PB blaster work on it over the next week. If it doesn't work then I'll wait til spring to remove valve cover to get to it. I know it consumes 2 quarts between its synthetic oil change at 10K miles. So that's probably going to be one more oil change before I get to it. Just seems weird to see 2 drywall screws where the handle to the dipstick was. Compressed air would work if this was an External dipstick tube, but alas not to be. Thanks for hearing me out.
The dipstick is in the PLASTIC valve cover, so aggressive methods would damage it. I'm going to let PB blaster work on it over the next week. If it doesn't work then I'll wait til spring to remove valve cover to get to it. I know it consumes 2 quarts between its synthetic oil change at 10K miles. So that's probably going to be one more oil change before I get to it. Just seems weird to see 2 drywall screws where the handle to the dipstick was. Compressed air would work if this was an External dipstick tube, but alas not to be. Thanks for hearing me out.
Release agents don't really work in that area. Your engine was not subjected to moister so there is not rusting of corrosion in the tube or on the dip stick. So, you have the best idea to wait and do it correctly.
Other methods are not likely to work and unless you are absolutely careful because this type of engine and the location of the dip stick you could damage other systems and parts of the engine.
So I finally removed the valve cover to get to the dipstick. Even using a thin screwdriver from the back end could budge the stuck dipstick. I finally just drilled it out. I decided to lube the plastic portion of the new dipstick with silicone grease so it wouldn't happen again. I added a new valve cover (since they're so cheap) even though the old one is only six months old. I went ahead and replaced the Bosch (iridium) spark plugs with some NGK (iridium) spark plugs. and got some new Standard Motor coil packs. I was really hoping my mileage would increase but alas it was the same as before. But at least I've got a working dipstick. I did think about cleaning the cover, but nah Here's where it broke off.
I keep track of my mileage daily as I do about 250 miles a day. I get about 26 mpg during the winter and about 28 mpg during the summer (without ac). So it rarely varies from these averages. I thought the new coil packs and spark plugs would be good for an additional mpg. But after one week of driving, it hasn't picked up.