Hi there, just want to share my experience of flushing the ATF for my 2005 Mazda3 (63k mil). I searched information as much as I can on the internet before I did the flush. There are various ways to do it but they are very similar. So here is what I did

1)drained 3.3 quarts of old fluid out from drain plug. Don't forget to use plastic bag or paper towel to cover the lower suspension arm (driver side), and use larger pan. I used small one, so when the fluid came out, it then hit the lower suspension component and messed up the floor a little bit

2)Put the plug back on, then poured 4 quarts of new ATF back in from dipstick tube

3)disconnected the tube from the cooler (two tubes connected to the cooler, disconnected the one further away from the center), and then put clear plastic tube (3/8" id) on

4)started the engine and let the pressure generated from the converter push the fluid out. I pulled out 3.2 quarts (mostly old I suppose) and then stopped the engine

5)poured 3 quarts of new fluid back into the transmission

6)started the engine again and pulled out 3.7 quarts (some old + some new) . This time i asked my wife switched the gear from P->R->N->D->N->R->P. I don't know if this procedure really helped push out more oil fluid, but sounds right

7)disconnected the plastic tube and then connected the original tube back on the cooler. I did replace the original clamp to the screw type one, but i think the original one will do fine even though many people suggest to replace it

8)poured 3 quarts of new fluid back in, and then I was done

I drove the car for about 10 mils (no harsh acceleration/deceleration, max high way speed: 65 mph), so far so good, and I did notice smoother gear shift between 1 and 2, 2 and 3. I didn't use M-V fluid, instead, I used Castrol import multi-vehicle ATF. I read many people strongly insist using what manual recommends, and I have nothing against it, but I personally think as long as you do some homework and research, then use your own judgement. I believe if you do the flush (not drain some/add some), you should be fine with what Advance auto says (I bought Castral ATF there online, they will tell you whether the parts/fluid are suitable for your model)

Oh, I forgot to tell tell you why I decided to flush the ATF. My car occasionally experienced jerky shifting between 1 and 2 (sometime 2 and 3 also), not very often, few times a month, and once the car has been driven for a while, it will be gone. I didn't think it is a big deal until I asked a mechanic at Mazda dealer. He said "I will not think it is normal, but I would not say it is abnormal, since some Mazda easily have transmission problem than the other (same model), I would suggest to change the transmission fluid every 30,000" I think that is a fair comment. Since I really wanted to prevent any possible damage to the transmission, I decided to have a DIY ATF flush

I didn't list ever detail, if you are interested in ATF flush, you should be able to find some here. When you calculate how much I poured in and how much I drained out, you will notice I was 0.2 quart less, so at the end I did add a little more, maybe a little more than 0.2 because I think a little more is better than a little less. You may not need to drain out 3.7 quarts in step 6), I did that because I didn't catch the fresh ATF coming out, plus I asked my wife to change the gears in step 6) slowly, it took a bit more time. I think I may waste nearly 2 quarts. Anyway, shifting wise, my car is running better now, I hope it will keep running strong for the next 50,000

I hope my write up is helpful. Any comments and thoughts are welcome

 

.... I didn't use M-V fluid, instead, I used Castrol import multi-vehicle ATF. I read many people strongly insist using what manual recommends, and I have nothing against it, but I personally think as long as you do some homework and research, then use your own judgement.....

mjs: I am one of those who recomand to stay with the manufacturer's recommendation. The reason is that they reformulated not only the fluid they also changed the material the seals and gaskets, bands and clutches are made of. When I get my transmission serviced I insist on them using Mercon V in my Ford Windstar. If I did not mention that every time the mechanic may not pay attention and pour in Mercon IV. That will certainly lead to problems as the seals will be affected.
So...make sure the Castrol fluid covers the Mazda specification for your vehicle.

 

tanprotege, totally agree, whenever you have doubts, follow what manual says. I am kind of person who like to do experiment, which means I take risk, however, I try to minimize it. People get discouraged when they read one negative comment even though they have read many positive ones, and negative things spread out 10x faster. Again, you can't really go wrong with factory recommendations, but if you choose to go for the other ways, make sure you collect all the positive/right info and follow what most people have done

 

As a mechanic Ive seen problems from people using aftermarket fluids, they may be cheaper than genuine, but the car makers spend a lot of $$s on creating the perfect fluids for their vehicles.

 

Hi grim_reaper, thank you for the info. Here is the link for every body who wants to use Castrol import multi-vehicle ATF for their Mazda 3 (and Tribute)
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s_ImportMV.pdf I have heard several people saying different companies formulate their oils differently, so as results the seals, bands, gaskets may be damaged. I believe it is possible. So if you want to be 100% safe, go for the factory recommendation

 

So, with experience, do you thing Castrol import multi-vehicle ATF as the best for your mazda 3 ?

 

In my market, Mazda has discontinued genuine MV ATF & replaced it with Castrol Multivehicle ( may be the same as Import multi-vehicle)