The Hatchback I got a year ago was missing its smaller splash shield that attaches to the bottom of the front bumper (Deflector Shield B45A-56-11Y). Finally getting to fixing things. The larger splash shield to the rear of the Deflector Shield with the oil filter access (Under Cover B61K-56-110A) is also beat up, so I am replacing both. Scoping out the task, got several questions:

1. Do the Mazda replacement parts come with all the mounting hardware?
   
2. Does it matter which shield (the Deflector or the Under Cover) you re-install first? Or are they independently mounted?
   
3. Does the Deflector Shield's leading edge install outside the lower edge of the nose panel, or does the shield slip within the nose prior to securing the plastic rivets?
   
4. There is a smaller side shield on the driver's side that is sandwiched between the Under Cover and the front cross member. I'm assuming that there was a similar side shield on the passenger side that was ripped off when the Deflector Shield went south. Are these small side shields a part of the replacement Under Cover, or are they separate parts that I need to order (can't find the part numbers for those)?
   

I would be grateful for any guidance!

 

Bueller....Bueller....? I guess no one has had to mess with their splash shields. Anyway, I finally picked up the new Deflector and Under Cover from my local dealer, and after looking at the new parts and the situation under the car, I can mostly answer my own questions (taken in the original order).

1. No, the replacement Mazda parts do NOT come with the mounting hardware, darn! Except the new Deflector does have two u-nuts already mounted at the rear of the unit where it will be secured to the Under Cover. In case the required bolts are missing, those two u-nuts take the screw 9KDB-00-616. The leading edge of the Deflector attaches to the lower edge of the nose panel with four screws (9CF6-00-516B) and two plastic pop fasteners (B-69-023-B1-1-1). The two pop fasteners go into the holes that are one-hole-in from the holes at each end of the Deflector, where two of the screws are used. The remaining two screws go into the remaining two mounting holes. The four screws go into u-nuts that should already be present at the mounting points on the edge of the nose panel. But in my case, the idiot PO apparently just brute force ripped the original damaged Deflector from the nose panel, succeeding in fracturing the mounting holes and disappearing the u-nuts. I will have to rebuild the mounting holes with epoxy and find some suitable u-nuts/bolts at the local big box. I hate people who bodge stuff.
   
2. The Deflector and Under Cover interlock at their joining point, so you do have to do a bit of a simultaneous ballet with the two splash shields to secure the installation. After struggling a bit under the car, I decided to have my local mechanic do the install up on his lift, where an extra pair of hands would also be available as needed.
   
3. The Deflector is just offered up to the bottom of the bumper/nose from below, while you slide a central ~5” tab that projects from the front of the Deflector inside the bumper. So the answer to this question is: both! And as I discovered after getting the new parts, there are just two plastic fasteners plus the four u-nut screws at the leading edge of the Defector.
   
4. A red herring. Upon further inspection, I figured out that there are no such side shields. What I was seeing on the driver's side was just a fragment of the torn off Deflector that the idiot PO had left attached to the Under Cover.
   

I thought that I should answer my own questions just in case another poor soul comes this way with a just purchased car that is missing the Deflector Shield. There is a reason why it is missing....

 

No to the hardware..

It is a about a 10 minute removable and reverse installation about 10 minutes after you have done the procedure once. Maybe about 30 minutes the first time LOL.

You do not need a lift only a pair of ramps and dry flat surface.

I do recommend to get extra plastic fasteners'.

I remove my complete under carriage plastic every oil change or if I do an engine and undercarriage pressure wash cleaning and detailing.

5 basic tools to remove the plastic covers. That includes the nice piece of carpet to lay on. LOL

 

Thanks for the reply. You have stimulated me to get out my ramps and give it a shot. Keep in mind though that I am on my 78th orbit of the sun and bending over is an Olympic event for me….

 

Take a pillow with you for your head and you will be just fine. Everything you need to do is on your back anyway.
You will need the following:
Flashlight (not required but may be handy) Preferably one that you can hold in your mouth. LOL
Screw driver (not required but may be handy)
Philps driver(not required but may be handy)
10mm deep socket or standard socket with extension
8mm deep socket or standard socket with extension

Thats it

 

Mine just happen to be off at the moment so I took some pictures for you

 

Since the job is done, I thought that I would post a final update. Yes, it is a job that even a geezer can accomplish at home with a pair of ramps: the remove/install of the Deflector Shield and Under Cover was comfortably done while lying on my back.

I had one complication: the Deflector Shield was destroyed under previous ownership and the mounting points at the bottom plastic of the front bumper were torn. All the mounting hardware was gone.





I was able to repair the torn mounting points using GOOP and Hillman (Lowes) #10 Wide Speed Nuts (H#881247). Hillman Oval Phillips Trim Screws SMS Black (H#882640) were used with the speed nuts to secure the front of the Deflector Shield. (4@ required) A good substitute for the missing plastic push rivets were the Hillman Push In Nylon Rivet 7/16” (H#881209). (3@ required)

The old Under Cover was in place but really beat up and warped, so I decided to replace it with a new one. All its old hardware was reused. Incidentally, on the re-install, the Deflector Shield needs to installed first due to the way the rear portion of it inter-locks with the front of the Under Cover. I found it convenient to position a couple of small cardboard boxes under the rear of the Under Cover to hold it up while I was futzing with the front hardware (8 screws installed first, loosely), then focus on installing the rear hardware (6 push in rivets), and finally tightening the 8 screws.

With the slick, new, shiny black plastic panels enclosing the underside of the car, I have regained factory aerodynamics, maybe good for +1 mpg......

 

NICE WORK ! Glad to see you did iy yourself!