2008 Tensioner and Belts
#11
Hey everyone, going out to do the full tensioner assembly today, shouldn't take too long and I am hoping it's the only repair we need to make.
Anyone know what I should torque the three bolts holding the assembly in place to when I put the new assembly in?
You guys think those bolts will be frozen in the block? I don't want to shear any bolts today. I have a little solder torch, should I apply a bit of heat to the head of the bolt before trying to back it out? Or maybe just stick to penetrating oil.
Anyone know what I should torque the three bolts holding the assembly in place to when I put the new assembly in?
You guys think those bolts will be frozen in the block? I don't want to shear any bolts today. I have a little solder torch, should I apply a bit of heat to the head of the bolt before trying to back it out? Or maybe just stick to penetrating oil.
Last edited by Subirex11; 01-01-2012 at 12:41 PM.
#12
Those 3 bolts broke loose without an issue, very smooth and easy repair (first time ever ). The noise is gone. The existing v-belt also looked fine. I wish I only had her buy the tensioner assembly but at least we have the 2 belts and water pump pulley for the next time a mechanic is under the car for something else.
Thanks for all the help folks.
Thanks for all the help folks.
#13
check alternator output
I'm new to mazdas but starting to get an education on mine (2001 tribute es) that also seems to be a problem with many mazdas models and years, masquerading as a belt or tensioner problem.
The pcm regulates the voltage output of the alternator and from jumping the car or what ever, it gets out of whack and regulates too much voltage, which then eats up belts, alternators, batteries and likely causes other related damage.
Suggest you check the voltage across the battery with the car running. Supposed to be 14 to 15 volts. mine was 16.5 on a new alternator... others have reported as high as 19.
Good luck
The pcm regulates the voltage output of the alternator and from jumping the car or what ever, it gets out of whack and regulates too much voltage, which then eats up belts, alternators, batteries and likely causes other related damage.
Suggest you check the voltage across the battery with the car running. Supposed to be 14 to 15 volts. mine was 16.5 on a new alternator... others have reported as high as 19.
Good luck
#14
Hey again guys, take a listen of this new video from this morning...seems like I may not have fixed the problem with the tensioner assembly after all, I'm a bit bummed about it. The initial video is still at the beginning of the thread.
Anyone have any idea or just a solid and safe recommendation of what the tensioner assembly bolts should be torqued to?
Click on the picture and it should take you to my photobucket video.
Anyone have any idea or just a solid and safe recommendation of what the tensioner assembly bolts should be torqued to?
Click on the picture and it should take you to my photobucket video.
Last edited by Subirex11; 01-07-2012 at 07:14 PM.
#15
sounds like the belt
The belt has steel core in it and when it wears down the metal starts to rub on the pulleys. My '06 had same noise with 85000 on it, changed belts, no more squeek. Good luck if you do this on your own, not the easiest belts I've ever changed, and I've changed quite a few on many different cars. One reason the squeek may have stopped wth the new pulley is the fact it may have been painted and the squeek came back after the paint wore off.
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