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Hi your answer to getting water in the boot . Its getting past the plastic dromit where the wires come through what plugs in to the back tail light unit . Unscrew the screws out of the tail light unit then slide the unit off . As i have a mazda 2 2013 venture limited edition. You will see where the plast dromit where the wire comes through . Clean round the plastic dromit and put some sealant back of the dromit then leave it to cure for a bit then replace the tail gate by sliding it back and re place the screws . That should do the trick . If you go on you tub it will show you .
kind regards
Roy from the uk
WRT the rust I was talking about "next to the Lift Back Hinges" & also "along the metalwork Joint Seams" it rusts from the inside out.....as a consequence of Water into the "Wheel Well" the condensation above the Hood Lining with time this is what you get, unfortunately its common & expensive to repair.
WRT the rust I was talking about "next to the Lift Back Hinges" & also "along the metalwork Joint Seams" it rusts from the inside out.....as a consequence of Water into the "Wheel Well" the condensation above the Hood Lining with time this is what you get, unfortunately its common & expensive to repair.
And here is another one...Holes coming in a few years, rusting from the inside out
Mazda2 Rear Lift Back LHS Hinge Area Rust 01
Mazda2 Rear Lift Back LHS Hinge Area Rust 02
Mazda2 Rear Lift Back RHS Seams Area Rust 03
The three cars photographed are Japan Built, Dark Met Blue 2011, Dark Silver 2009 & White 2012 however, similar Corrosion has been visible in the Thailand Built versions 2007 to 2012 & also the next generation 2013 onwards SkyActive Thailand Built ones Caveat Emptor
There is also this: https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-new...ust-risk-45587 "Mazda has issued a global recall of more than 2.2 million cars from across its range to rectify a potential corrosion issue that affects some of its best-selling models.
….
At issue is a paint that’s been incorrectly applied to the boot area, which can cause corrosion if not rectified.
....
“At this stage, specific details for the Australian market have not been confirmed, but when these details are made available they will be communicated to the relevant authorities, our customers and our dealer network,”
Rob
Last edited by OZCorolla_x2; May 15, 2024 at 06:43 AM.
Water into rear boot wheel well is common. Early signs are corrosion on the tool kit tools, corrosion on the spare tyre retainer bolt, corrosion of the spare tyre rim etc. The Spare tyre may have been spaced up of the wheel well base by rubber squares.
Water entry can occur via a number of ways. Per GRIM's comment someone in the boot of the car with a torch while someone hoses the back of the car is useful.
Removal of the Wheel Well base rubber drain plug can aid with allowing excessive water out & the additional ventilation can help the wheel well dry out faster unit you get this resolved.
When water gets into the wheel well, humidity in the car rises & water will condense at lowest point under the hood lining….typically around the Hatch Back hinges & the Roof metal work will rust from the inside out….with the rust with time bubbling through the paint in the vicinity of the Lift back hinges!! Rust at this location is problematic/expensive to repair.
KEY POINT fix the water into the wheel well problem swiftly otherwise you get a "NASTY Legacy Item".
######### Water into the Wheel Well
[1] One way that is harder to diagnose is if the rear hatch back rubber has been removed at some stage….& the “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” on the "hatchback body metalwork lip outer edge" under the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal" has been removed:
[a] “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” removed as part of accident damage repair or respray
['b] “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” removed as part of cleaning of accumulated dirt/muck/grime by an Owner or by a Paid for “Hand Car Wash” without the owner knowing
[c] “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” looses its volatiles with time, goes hard & looses its ability to seal
Originally at the factory a “White Waterproof Silicon Grease NGLI3” was put on the "hatchback body metalwork lip outer edge"to assist with providing a seal between the painted metalwork & the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal" in particular .
The photos below from a 2009 Corolla & illustrate the points. MAZDA 2 is similar.
Pic01 LHS Body Joint that runs under the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal"
Pic02 Grommets for Stop Light Rear Window Wiper Rear Window Water Squirter & Rear Window Heater Wiring
Pic03 RHS Body Joint that runs under the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal"
Removing any residual of the "old White Waterproof Silicon Grease" & replacing it with "NEW White Waterproof Silicon Grease" on the "hatchback body metalwork lip outer edge"underneath the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal" reinstates its water blocking function preventing water into the rear boot wheel well.
[2] Rubber sealing Grommets for the Stop Light Rear Window Wiper Rear Window Water Squirter & Rear Window Heater Wiring. The brake light wiring rubber sealing grommet sealing should be checked. As the rubber ages its flexibility & capability to seal deteriorates. Putting White Waterproof Silicon Grease at the rubber grommet to body metalwork interface can also reduce the water ingress at this location
[3] The sealing Urethane/neoprene between the Rear Lights housing & the metal body fails with time & water gets in.
[4] The Urethane used to fit the glass into the lift back goes hard with age, simplest solution is to have the rear glass removed & reinstalled with new Urethane by a Automotive Glass/Windscreen Repairer.
