Hi everyone,

I noticed today a large amount of water in the spare wheel well. Any ideas where it may be coming from? I had a quick search on Google and there was mention of water coming in through the rear light cluster. I've not had a chance to check this. Anywhere else that I should be looking? I should add it's parked on my driveway on an incline nose first. Thanks in adavance.

 

year and what model Mazda 2?

 

2011, 5 door

 

Thanks, Unfortunately I don't have one in the lot currently to look at and that year is different from the ones I have had to check for passenger compartment water leaks.
But your information may have someone that has your vintage model and a like problem to chime in?

 

No problem. Thanks

 

Strip the boot panels out, stick someone in there with a torch, hose the back of the car down and get them to look for leaks.

 

Is it quite simple to strip away the trim? Is there a how to guide? Thanks

 

Some thoughts:

Water into rear boot wheel well is common. Early signs are corrosion on the tool kit tools, corrosion on the spare tyre retainer bolt, corrosion of the spare tyre rim etc. The Spare tyre may have been spaced up of the wheel well base by rubber squares.

Water entry can occur via a number of ways. Per GRIM's comment someone in the boot of the car with a torch while someone hoses the back of the car is useful.
Removal of the Wheel Well base rubber drain plug can aid with allowing excessive water out & the additional ventilation can help the wheel well dry out faster until you get this resolved.

When water gets into the wheel well, humidity in the car rises & water will condense at lowest point under the hood lining….typically around the Hatch Back hinges & the Roof metal work will rust from the inside out….with the rust with time bubbling through the paint in the vicinity of the Lift back hinges!! Rust at this location is problematic/expensive to repair.
KEY POINT fix the water into the wheel well problem swiftly otherwise you get a "NASTY Legacy Item".

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Water into the Wheel Well
[1] One way that is harder to diagnose is if the rear hatch back rubber has been removed at some stage….& the “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” on the "hatchback body metalwork lip outer edge" under the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal" has been removed:
[a] “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” removed as part of accident damage repair or respray
['b] “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” removed as part of cleaning of accumulated dirt/muck/grime by an Owner or by a Paid for “Hand Car Wash” without the owner knowing
[c] “White Waterproof Silicon Grease” looses its volatiles with time, goes hard & looses its ability to seal

Originally at the factory a “White Waterproof Silicon Grease NGLI3” was put on the "hatchback body metalwork lip outer edge" to assist with providing a seal between the painted metalwork & the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal" in particular .

The photos below from a 2009 Corolla & illustrate the points. MAZDA 2 is similar.

Pic01 LHS Body Joint that runs under the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal"

Pic02 Grommets for Stop Light Rear Window Wiper Rear Window Water Squirter & Rear Window Heater Wiring

Pic03 RHS Body Joint that runs under the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal"

Removing any residual of the "old White Waterproof Silicon Grease" & replacing it with "NEW White Waterproof Silicon Grease" on the "hatchback body metalwork lip outer edge" underneath the "Hatchback Rubber Weather Seal" reinstates its water blocking function preventing water into the rear boot wheel well.

[2] Rubber sealing Grommets for the Stop Light Rear Window Wiper Rear Window Water Squirter & Rear Window Heater Wiring. The brake light wiring rubber sealing grommet sealing should be checked. As the rubber ages its flexibility & capability to seal deteriorates. Putting White Waterproof Silicon Grease at the rubber grommet to body metalwork interface can also reduce the water ingress at this location

[3] The sealing Urethane/neoprene between the Rear Lights housing & the metal body fails with time & water gets in.

[4] The Urethane used to fit the glass into the lift back goes hard with age, simplest solution is to have the rear glass removed & reinstalled with new Urethane by a Automotive Glass/Windscreen Repairer.

[5] Wiper motor drive pass through grommet.
etc

Rob

 

Thanks. I'll attempt to remove the trim to get a better look.

 

Hi your answer to getting water in the boot . Its getting past the plastic dromit where the wires come through what plugs in to the back tail light unit . Unscrew the screws out of the tail light unit then slide the unit off . As i have a mazda 2 2013 venture limited edition. You will see where the plast dromit where the wire comes through . Clean round the plastic dromit and put some sealant back of the dromit then leave it to cure for a bit then replace the tail gate by sliding it back and re place the screws . That should do the trick . If you go on you tub it will show you .
kind regards
Roy from the uk