Hi all, Im brand new here!
My Mazda 2 - 2010 with only 57k miles, is using oil, and the engine light is coming on with code PO328 indicating knock sensor
When buying the engine oil they sold me Granville FD fully synthetic 5w/30. I questioned them because it said the oil is suitable for ford engines but didnt state Mazda, but they said it is fine
Can anyone tell me is this the correct oil for a Mazda 2, and could this have anything to do with the knock sensor?
Any advice very much appreciated
Thanks
legepe

 

Welcome to the forum

Don't read the basic advertisement on oil bottles read the certification of the oil.

The correct oil depends on your geological location and the availability of some motor oils. Refer to your owner's manual or contact Mazda service department and ask them their "recommendation" specifically for you.

Otherwise, the way to determine the viscosity depends on the operating temperature of your climate.
Sorry I have no idea where HULL (where you are from) is?

The DTC (engine code you got is the first step to determine an issue ONLY! DO NOT start changing parts based on your DTC alone. Many conditions can cause any DTC to be seen in a casual ECU scan which may or may not be the actual issue.
Have a qualified Automotive Technician or certified mechanic properly and fully scan your ECU for all the information.

If you are not leaking and you know this absolutely by way of a detailed inspection of the engine, then you should get a dry (standard) compression test followed by a wet compression test and then a cylinder leak down test. Thes 3 will determine where if your engine is burning the oil. You may also look at the tail pipe as well the condition of the spark plugs when the compression test is being done which will have clues to oil consumption directly from the engine burring it.

 

Thanks for this info, Hull is north east UK. I take what you have said, and I will consult with an expert mechanic to have him scan the ecu.. thanks again for your help!

 

 

Welcome legepe
Not sure if you are DIY capable with mechanical skills, if you are not suggest you follow the path outlined by Callisto, it is useful advice given you have provided limited detail/No service history detail & it is a 15 year old car.


However, if you are DIY Capable with mechanical skills, read on.

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If you could provide some more detail about the car that would be useful/help with understanding your situation.

[1] Is it a Japan Built Car or a Thailand Built Car?

[2] What engine do you have in the Mazda2? 1.5lt ZY-VE MZR? Noted the 1.5lt ZY-VE MZR is aluminium block with cast iron chill fit sleeves, not really suitable for re-boring, re-honing might or mightnot work out...so unfortunately it is pretty much a One-Shot Motor. It is best to do regular Oil Changes with a High Quality Full Synthetic.

[3] No service history detail provided & it is a 15 year old car:
Are you a new owner of the Mazda 2? else how long have you had the car?
What frequency of oil changes over your ownership? a) 3,000miles or 6mths b) 5,000miles or 6mths c) each 10.000miles d) each 12mths regardless of miles but typically less than 10,000miles?

What Oil Type, Viscosity & API/ACEA Certification etc for the oil changes from 2010?
Any detail of the frequency of oil changes since 2010 if you are not the first owner?
Were oil filters changed each time the Oil was changed?
What oil filters were used with the oil changes since 2010?

Are you servicing the Mazda2 yourself to the OEM Handbook recommendations (or Better)?

Was this the first time you have purchaced Granville Oil 5W30?
What oil have you used previously for the Mazda2?

Did you do the Oil & Filter change with the Granville Oil yourself? If so what "Volume of Oil did you put in at the Oil Change"?
or
Was the Granville Oil put into the car as “Top Off Oil” between Services or is this the Oil that has been used to service the car previously?

[4] Does the car blow blue smoke?
Does the car blow blue smoke on first start from cold? (Observed by someone watching tail pipe when car is started)
Does the car blow blue smoke at cold fast idle?
Does the car blow blue smoke if you blip the throttle while the Blue Low Temp Warning (ECT <55 Deg C) is still lit on the Dash? (Observed by someone watching tail pipe when throttle is blipped)
Does the car blow blue smoke if you blip the throttle after it has idled for say 1 minute? (Observed by someone watching tail pipe when throttle is blipped)
Does the car blow blue smoke at Full Op Temp idle?
Does the car blow blue smoke if you blip the throttle & the car is at Full Op Temp after it has idled for say 5 minutes? (Observed by someone watching tail pipe when throttle is blipped)
Does the car blow blue smoke on gear changes when you are driving along? (Observed by someone following the car)
Does the car blow blue smoke under WOT loaded acceleration? (Observed by someone following the car)
Does the car blow blue smoke with foot off the throttle, using engine braking down a hill at say 4000RPM? (Observed by someone following the car)

[5] WRT Oil Consumption:
[5.1] Start with a detailed inspection of the engine to confirm you are not leaking oil, "externals" front, rear & sides from both under & above the engine.

[5.2] Need to also inspect the camcover/rocker cover spark plug tube seals, the problem is to do this on the Mazda2 you need to take the plastic air inlet ducting & the ECU "off".
Noting that when you take the air inlet off (the ECU is removed) so you will loose ECU Memory learned values including Fuel Trims & Fuel Trim Map, so its best to have "Full OBDII Scan Record" extracted/done BEFORE you disconnect the ECU to access the sparkplug tube seals/sparkplugs.
[5.3] While you have the Air Inlet off, may as well take the spark plugs out, Inspect & photograph.

[6] WRT Oil Consumption:
Noted:
Pg8-16 of 2009 Japan Built 1.5lt Owner’s Manual notes: "1lt of Oil between L & F marks on the dipstick."
Pg10-5 of 2009 Japan Built 1.5lt Owner’s Manual notes: "Capacity as 3.9lt with oil filter replacement" (However experience suggests 4.2lt is the nominal fill when the SUMP is allowed to drain completely)
Not sure about the 1.3lt engine version, we did not get that in Oz.

How has the oil consumption been determined? eg oil level reduced from full mark to low mark on the dip stick over ? XXXXkm? & YY Weeks?

Did the oil consumption start with the most recent oil change? Or has it become noticeable and increasing over a number of oil changes?

How long since the Granville Oil Oil change? how much oil has been consumed over XXXXkm? & YY Weeks?

If the “Crankcase Oil was/has been Topped Off” was the “Top Off Oil” the same Granville Oil 5W30? Has the oil consumption repeated with the total volume of initial fill oil plus the topped off crankcase oil?

[7] PCV Valve
Have you confirmed your PCV Valve is functional / is there excessive oil in the crank case breather tube that connects from the PCV Valve to the Throttle Body?

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[8] Which of the Granville Oil's is the Oil in the car?
WRT “When buying the engine oil they sold me Granville FD fully synthetic 5w/30” does this mean you have changed the Oil in the car or were you purchacing the oil & providing it to a Mechanic shop to do the Oil Change for you?

https://www.granvilleoil.com/products?cID=31
There are a few Granville Oil 5W30’s & they have different API & ACEA Test Certifications, the Tech Data Sheets don’t state which year the API & ACEA Test Certifications comply with.
SL, SM, SN, SP, GF6A is the progression of API certification
SL is a dated Oil Specification & while the 2009 Mazda 2 Owner’s Manual may list "SG Oil as the minimum requirement" there are better oils, if you run outdated spec SG Oil the car is not likely to get to 300,000kms.

Granville Oil also have:
Mid SAPS
Low SAPS

https://www.granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=299
TDS-129-Granville_Hypalube_SL_SS_5W30.pdf
Granville Hypalube SL SS 5W/30 = Semi Synthetic
Granville FD FS 5w/30 - Says Full Synthetic
ACEA: A5/B5
API: SL/CF
HTHS Viscosity ASTM D4683 mPa.s 3 3.5
NOACK 13%

https://www.granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=283
TDS-88-Granville_Hypalube_FD_FS_5W30.pdf
Granville Hypalube FD FS 5W/30
ACEA: A5/B5
API: SL/CF
NOACK 13%

https://cmgoilsdirect.co.uk/product/...=ifsukqtnn5f3d
GRANVILLE FS-G 5W30 5L
ACEA: A3/B4
API: SL/CF
NOACK 13%

https://www.granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=954
TDS-464-Granville_Hypalube_LL_FS_5W30.pdf
Granville Hypalube LL FS 5W/30
ACEA: A3/B4
API: SL/CF
NOACK 10%
So they do have a Lower NOACK 5W30

& Importantly/of interest FD FS is listed as:
NOACK Volatility ASTM D5800 % 13
=>> This is a Rubbish Result for a Full Synthetic Oil and suggest this will result in the car requiring “Top Offs between the oil changes”.

Oddly the Granville Oil Data Sheets for Both the FD FS Full Synthetic and Semi Synthetic Oils list as NOACK Volatility ASTM D5800 % 13, this is surprising. Expected Full Synth to have a Lower NOACK, maybe their FD FS Full Synthetic is a GroupIII Plus Oil only.

My Experience is the Mazda 2 1.5lt ZY-VE MZR engines run hot. 92 Deg to 100 Deg C ECT cycle for thermostatic fans when watching the OBDII PIDs. Mazda 2 1.5lt ZY-VE MZR engines are Hard on Oil. If you want the Mazda2 to last to 300,000kms give consideration to running the best quality Full Synth you can afford & an Oil & Filter Change at 5,000km (3,000miles) or 5,000miles max for Severe Service Short Stop Start City Driving City Driving.

The consequences of running a >10% NOACK Oil are/will be clearly visible in the PCV, EGR, Throttle Body, Inlet Manifold & Intake Valves, also on the spark plug tip insulators & Upper Cylinder Head Deposits dependent on drive cycle.
For >10% NOACK You will also have to TopUp/TopOff the Engine Oil between oil changes due to vapourisation of the volatiles & you think you are burning oil.
The Owner’s Manual for the 1.5lt ZY-VE MZR Lists that it is a nominal 1.0lt between the Low & Full marks on the Dipstick... [(1.0lt/4.2lt) = 23.8% of the 1.5lt ZY-VE MZR Crank Case Oil Volume, don't run it low keep it at the full line.

Some say Non Turbo Gasoline Engines Temperatures:
Piston Crown = 204 to 426 DegC
Top of Cylinder Wall = 93 to 371 DegC
Piston Rings = 149 to 315 DegC
Piston Skirt = 93 to 204 DegC
Bottom of Cylinder Wall = up to 149 DegC
Wrist Pin = 121 to 232 DegC
Main Bearings = up to 177 DegC
Connecting Rod Bearings = 93 to 204 DegC
Exhaust Valve Heads = greater than 426 to 538 DegC
Exhaust Valve Stems = greater than 149 DegC but Less than 426 DegC

There are substantially Lower NOACK / Better oils out there suggest you change to one of them from the 13% NOACK Granville Oil.
No Affiliation....An option is Shell Helix Ultra A3/B4, it is a Gas to Liquid High Quality Full Synth NOACK 7% (Penzoil Platinum Ultra) A3/B4 is typically cheaper than ECT3 of GF6A, (not sure how ECT3 & GF6A handle high sulphur content fuels.)
Key advantage of Low NOACK Oil is reduced volatile evaporation over the Oil Change Interval & reduced PCV, EGR, Throttle Body, Inlet Manifold & Intake Valves & Upper Cylinder Head Deposits along with reduced Cam/rocker cover varnishing etc.

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[9] LTFT
What is the Full Op Temp Long Term Fuel Trim at Full Op Temp Idle in Neutral, foot not on brake with all accessories off.

[10] Throttle Body
Are the throttle body, Butterfly Plate & internals coated with excessive gunk and oil film?

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[11] Using a High NOACK Oil or Burning Oil can lead to upper cylinder head deposits, deposits on Piston Rings, deposits on the Piston Ring Lands, clogging of the “Piston Oil Control Ring Oil Return Holes” etc.
Upper Cylinder Head Deposits can induce Pinging with the Knock Sensor attempting to compensate. There are other problems that cause Pinging as well.
If you are confident in the car, you can try a bottle of high quality fuel injector cleaner & take the car for a 2Hr plus each way Full Op Temp High Speed Run down the M1 from Hull to Leatherhead Surey (220mile each way) including a few WOT runs if the car has only been doing short stop start trips.

[12] Is the PO328 a hard on MIL? or is that a historical MIL?

[13] You have indicated the PO328 MIL, do you have an OBDII Reader that does Live Data PIDs? Can you extract the Freeze Frame Data for the PO328 MIL?

[14] Do you have a workshop manual?
noted they are nominal AUD$20 on fleabay for LHD car detai on a CD, so easy enough to get one
2014_01_29 WORKSHOP MANUAL MAZDA 2 DE 3782Pgs
Pg1634 DTCP0328:OO KS Circuit high input

The PCM monitors input signal from the KS. If the input voltage is more than 3.75V for 5s the PCM determines that the KS circuit has a malfunction.
There are a number of tests and checks you can do WRT the Knock Sensor & the Wiring to it etc.


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Hope the above helps.

Rob

 

Thanks again, for this infomation, I will more than likely take it to a technician hopefully next week, and I will let you know what he says