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About a week ago I did the Car Servicing and got the items fixed below:
- all spark plugs
- Throttle body cleaning
- Oil & Filter change
- Brake Pads
Roughly about 100-150 km after the servicing while driving the car started to loose its power and had sudden braking - while pressing down on the gas there wasn’t much power and no matter how much I press - constant power.
I plugged in the OBD scanner and the codes were U0115 & U0101. Have tried reseting
the car by removing the terminal and still the same.
Ps. Also when shifting to the manual mode ( Its AT) the gear indicator is blank and doesn't allow me to change gears manually.
would appreciate any help if any one had these issues.
the car has 43k KMS.
thank You!
ps. All these servicing and checks were done at the garage.
Last edited by Hyper878; Feb 15, 2025 at 02:27 AM.
You also have a service needed light
Your scanner does not have the capability to reset those DTC's.
If it did your scanner would have advance access capabilities. But in this case reading what you are doing it is a good thing it doesn't.
Nor should you be disconnecting the battery and could cause more problems
You also do not just reset those DTC and I strongly recommend going to Mazda or a service shop that has a certified Automotive Diagnostic technician employed to look at your possible problems.
About the only thing you should do is before going further FIRST have the battery load tested.
Then check the battery terminals for good contact as well the cable to the starter and the ground cable/ The ground cable you should disconnect and clean the area to make sure it is a bare metal surface.
I would be curious what you scheduled service light is on for?
The service parts work you did should not have caused an issue, but I do hope you used specifically Throttle body (not carburetor) cleaner and did not use that on the electrical parts of the throttle body which you should have used an electrical parts cleaner. But I don't think you cause a use because you have been driving a while before any new issues happened.
For future reference when you disconnect the battery after their is a check engine light by disconnecting the battery all you did was to turn off the dash check engine light it does not "re-set " the ECU if the fault for the DTC was not corrected or that the cause was an anomalous event in which it will go to the permeant file area of the ECU until several engine cycles with the event no longer present that cause the initial DTC and check engine light to be activated.
Last edited by Callisto; Feb 14, 2025 at 03:36 PM.
You also have a service needed light
Your scanner does not have the capability to reset those DTC's.
If it did your scanner would have advance access capabilities. But in this case reading what you are doing it is a good thing it doesn't.
Nor should you be disconnecting the battery and could cause more problems
You also do not just reset those DTC and I strongly recommend going to Mazda or a service shop that has a certified Automotive Diagnostic technician employed to look at your possible problems.
About the only thing you should do is before going further FIRST have the battery load tested.
Then check the battery terminals for good contact as well the cable to the starter and the ground cable/ The ground cable you should disconnect and clean the area to make sure it is a bare metal surface.
I would be curious what you scheduled service light is on for?
The service parts work you did should not have caused an issue, but I do hope you used specifically Throttle body (not carburetor) cleaner and did not use that on the electrical parts of the throttle body which you should have used an electrical parts cleaner. But I don't think you cause a use because you have been driving a while before any new issues happened.
For future reference when you disconnect the battery after their is a check engine light by disconnecting the battery all you did was to turn off the dash check engine light it does not "re-set " the ECU if the fault for the DTC was not corrected or that the cause was an anomalous event in which it will go to the permeant file area of the ECU until several engine cycles with the event no longer present that cause the initial DTC and check engine light to be activated.
Thank You for the reply. The service light is for the tyre rotation, I reset that to avoid confusion already.
ps. All these servicing and checks were done at the garage.
the reset was done by the mechanic, after all these errors I took the var to the mechanic to have it diagnosed - while they had the computer connected.
They checked the battery and was initially at 13-13-5 at times peaking to 14.
on a side note, i have a dash cam hard-wired which operates even when the car is off - could it be the reason for the battery to loose its power and subsequently cause other issues?
Last edited by Hyper878; Feb 15, 2025 at 02:26 AM.
Sorry but your response is conflicting with this latest response from you?
But from your new response the in formation suggests that,
The garage did not ret the ECU
They did not load test the battery
Theye did not check the battery connections
And if you told them about your Dash camara they should have checked if it stays active 100% because of a possible installation error of fault in the camara itself?
Sorry but your response is conflicting with this latest response from you?
But from your new response the in formation suggests that,
The garage did not ret the ECU
They did not load test the battery
Theye did not check the battery connections
And if you told them about your Dash camara they should have checked if it stays active 100% because of a possible installation error of fault in the camara itself?
- I am not sure if they did reset the ecu… - could you please advise if it is useful to do now, and if i can do it myself?
- the battery load test was done yesterday after the faults appear- the test indicated 12.5 to 13.5.
- following the error codes they removed the terminals and checked it and reconnected.
is there anything else I can help to make it less confusing?
- I am not sure if they did reset the ecu… - could you please advise if it is useful to do now, and if i can do it myself? I cant explain all the possible reasons why and why not to choose to turn off the engine check light or to clear a code in the active DTC section of the ECU while it may still be remaining in the permanent file area of th4e ECU? Tis more or less is the choice of the person that is doing the diagnostic evaluation.
- the battery load test was done yesterday after the faults appear- the test indicated 12.5 to 13.5. This is NOT load testing the battery!
- following the error codes they removed the terminals and checked it and reconnected.
is there anything else I can help to make it less confusing?
Not to be rude but maybe try to find a shop that has a currently trained and certified Automotive Mechanic. Not just a person that says and claims they are experience mechanic that know how to work on any vehcle with an OBDII or CANbus ECU/PCM operating system.
during the oil change there was a bracket under the car which was broken. The mech welded it and i am 100% sure he didnt remove the battery terminals as the car was jacked and oil was draining.
attached picture of the bracket.
ps. The certified mech replaced the battery and alternator and still the issue exists.