Hello everyone

I'm hoping someone can help us figure this out, we have a 2013 Mazda 2 Touring that is in good condition and taken care of.

About a year ago the Water Pump started leaking and we had it replaced by our local shop that has been our got to for

working on this car.

Everything was fine for about a year and then the radiator started to leak so that was replaced along with the thermostat and new radiator cap.

A few months down the road and the water pump started leaking again from the seal to the block so they replaced it.



A few months later the Radiator for some reason backed all its fluid into the overflow reservoir and started leaking out of the radiator cap.

We took it in and they checked for electrolysis and pressure tested everything so no head gasket or other leaks found.



They simply replaced the radiator cap and that seemed to work for a while, but then stated leaking again so they replaced it with another

one and that seems to have done the trick for a while.



Unfortunately after that the water pump stated leaking again this time from the from the the front bleed hole and it sprays a line of coolant around

the area (as seen in the pictures) so they replaced it.

Then a few months later the Water pump was again leaking from the front bleed hole so they replaced it again.



According to the service bulletin these pumps can put off a small amount of steam/coolant but not so much that it drips or would be considered leaking.

Our water pump is actually leaking not just putting off a small amount of steam as is noted in the service bulletin about this issue with these particular pumps.

So they Replaced it and literally after only a few months it again has started leaking form the front bleed hole.



It seem no matter what we do the water pump is leaking form its bleed hole and again it is not the small amount of steam as noted int eh service bulletin

it is actually leaking and fitting their description of a failing water pump.



I need to know if anyone else has experienced this and if they found a solution because the shop has warranted their work but now we are getting at the point that they can not figure out what is causing it.



Currently they have put Zerex Asian Blue Coolant in it and I have asked them to Put Actual Mazda FL22 Green Coolant back in there to see if that will change anything as the dealership said if not using factory coolant that "could" be an issue although not likely.



Could the Radiator actually be bad and the water pump is the weak point of failure?



There is NO oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil those are completely clean so the thought of a head gasket issue doesn't seem likely but I'm wondering if there could be a small leak that is pressurizing the cooling system and over heating it BUT the Temperature Lights NEVER go on and even the shop has checked the temperature and it doesn't seem to be over heating.

We thought we were just getting some bad water pumps but we are going on the 4th one in a 2 year period and this is getting absurd.



I'm attaching images as well as the images of the service bulletin description SB-10092584-6903



PLEASE if anyone has any ideas post away!

sincerely

Mazda213

 

I know the radiator cap (cooling system pressure cap) is supposed to control the pressure in the cooling but to me it sounds like the cooling system is under very high pressure. This can be caused by head gasket leakage and looking at the list of what's been done I dont see a cylinder leakage test or combustion leak test being done. A radiator pressure test only tests around the release pressure of the cap. Quiet low. A cylinder leakage test around 100 psi or whatever the workshop compressor is set to and pressurises the cylinders one at a time while the mechanice looks at possible leak areas like the riadiator for bubbles. The combustion leak test analyses possible bubbles in the cooling system for CO2 another sign of a leaking head gasket.

 

To translate a little better from the last response…
The service shops should have

Check cylinder compression via compression test.
Those results or to rule out it may/ should have been followed up by a cylinder leak down test.
The cooling system should have been psi tested, and complete cooling and HVAC system checked for coolant leaks.
The cooling system then should have been test for exhaust chemicals by way of a block tester.

There are a few other tests that a qualified service shop would do to find the issue.

My advice because you are in the USA is find a independent service shop that advertises employing ASE Mechanic or better ASE Automotive Technicians
These shops must have ay least one current ASE to be listed as an ASE shop nationwide
In other words, they are not just home-grown mechanics, but these are experienced, qualified and certified individuals that will find you current problem(s) and their causes and in the end the solution to them. No guessing, replacing working parts or substandard service work.

 

Hello there and thank you for your answers.
My Mechanics shop is ASE certified and they do good work I just think this problem has them stumped right now.
I do know they have pressure tested the cooling system and it is solid, the only problem is after a few months the Water Pump itself starts to leak form the bleed hole and it should not be.
I believe they have tested for electrolysis as well and that was negative.

I believe they also tested the Engine temperature and Coolant Temperature switches but I'll have them go over those again as well.

I do not know if they have done the block and cylinder testing as you described so I will be asking them to check the following as recommend.

Check cylinder compression via compression test.
Those results or to rule out it may/ should have been followed up by a cylinder leak down test.
The cooling system then should have been test for exhaust chemicals by way of a block tester.
The combustion leak test analyses possible bubbles in the cooling system for CO2 another sign of a leaking head gasket.

Thank you for your answers and if there is anything else please let me know as I am taking it in tomorrow.

zoom zoom
Mazda213

 

Sounds like it's going to be in good hands. The coolant pump has a spring loaded seal and if coolant gets past the seal it drains from the relief hole. The seal wears out over time but not in a year. Please post back the outcome.

 

The water pump failed prematurely. Check the brand used some have a 1 year warranty or more. It won’t cover the labor but you may not have to buy a new one.

The water may have also failed because of and already underlying issue.

There is no problem that should stump an ASE as long as they perform all the necessary test to find the cause . It reads more like not all test were done yet?