New2Mazda2017, it runs worse when it gets hot. That doesn't completely rule out a crack in the manifold, but I've had to replace a cracked intake manifold on a crown Victoria. I'm not feeling today vice here.

When you mention the EGR system/hoses you day to remove the hoses from the intake and capping them as a test. That is kind of challenging. There's is a vacuum line from the EGR valve to the EGR solenoid. The vacuum line from the solenoid is spilt with one line going to just under the throttle body, and the other's continues toward the intake. It splits again with one line going to the purge control valve, and the continues toward the intake. It splits more time right before the intake, joined here by the line from the vapor holding container. If I cap the EGR vacuum line from the intake manifold, that will only leave the line from the intake manifold to the charcoal canister and the line going to the PVC valve. Do I leave the EGR solenoid and the other control valve plugged in and cap the line at the intake and call the vacuum line leading to all these other components? What result am I looking for??

 

Assuming the sensor is correct, which it should be since it's new, you're running lean which is causing problems. So, you have to attack that list of what may cause it to run lean.

If your running lean, it's too much air, too little gas, or the computer is nuts.

Do this first as it's easy.
1. Find the spec for the intake manifold absolute pressure.
2. Hook up a reader capable of reading that data.

If the manifold pressure is correct, then no vacuum leak issue.

The next step is fuel delivery, so borrow the kit from an autoparts store and read/monitor your fuel rail pressure. If that's good, you could still have clogged/dirty injectors, which are known to cause....yep....misfires. So I'd pull and clean/test them.

EDIT: Forgot you had a had the 3160 that should do the manifold pressure reading.

 

Hey New2mazda2017, I really appreciate your input. Please don't stop. I didn't have an MAP. I have a Mass Air Flow sensor. It consistently runs at just under 1.0 at .89-.92. I unplugged it while the engine was running and it almost stalled the engine so I believe the MAF sensor is working. I have basic code reader. Lol I wish I had the money for nice diagnostic reader. I'm disabled on a fixed income. Fixing this car is my only option. I'll get the fuel pressure tool from AutoZone as soon as I can get a ride there. I'm the mean time I'll try calling the vacuum line from the intake manifold.

 

The MAF sensor reads how much air is passing by so the computer can inject the correct amount of gas.

If there is a vacuum leak after the MAF, the mixture will be too lean.

The MAP sensor is the vacuum pressure after the MAF sensor.

You need to find the spec and then take a reading...if it's out of spec, you have a vacuum leak.

I believe these are your specs:

• Voltage range: ~1.0V at idle (high vacuum) to ~4.5V at wide-open throttle (low vacuum)
• You could use a voltmeter to read this spec at the connector. Higher than 1V at idle is a vacuum leak.
  
• Pressure range: 20–250 kPa (kilopascals), or roughly 3–36 psi
  
• Connector: 3-pin electrical connector
  

Here's a vid showing where the MAP is; you shouldn't need to replace it, but at least you know where it is.

 

I have looked for the MAP sensor to no avail. I had the upper and lower intake manifold off the other day and I don't recall seeing it then. I also looked in my Haines repair manual and my Tribute wiring book and I can't find it.