I have a 2001 mazda tribute Lx sport with a 3.0 v6 that was running great until a couple of weeks ago. My check engine light started flashing and it started running rough here and there while idling. Had it scanned and got a P0301 error. Had the ignition coil replaced in cylinder 1 and it ran great for a few days before the same issues. I expected that and ordered the coils and plugs. Had all 6 replaced today (including the new one) and vacuum hose and now the check engine light went from blinking 15 times as soon as I started it to 32 times in the mile it took me to get to Auto Zone to have it scanned again. The whole time it was running rougher than ever and shuddering when I touched the gas pedal. Back to the cylinder 1 misfire code. What could be wrong because I'm being told that it's my acceleration cable or an electrical issue. I'm just starting over so I can't afford alot of repairs at once.
Also, where can I possibly find a new throttle cable because they seem to be nonexistent!!

 

Welcome to the forum

STOP replacing parts that have not been verified as bad or the direct cause of the problem. Doing that method more than often will cause additional issues to add to the original unresolved issue.

During your tune up at some point you damaged one of the parts either installing the new part or replacing other parts that connect to it. Or you inadvertently damage a part not even a service area you were working on.

The shop that ran the scan should have either used a scanner with a oscilloscope or offered to run a short diagnostic run on an oscilloscope. This would have ruled out the basic spark plugs and coils as the problem. From that point it goes back to what I mentioned earlier.

FYI the method of testing coil condition by swapping coil is one of the worst things ever recommended on the internet and by individuals that are not experienced in servicing properly/ This method really does not fully indicate a faulty coil and because it is predominately done on aged or high mileage coils they often damage the test coil during this type of DIY methodology of testing ignition system parts.

Cables can be found at the usual places, Auto Dismantlers and may NIB stock? And if you cant find them there are several business in the US that can make virtually any control cable you can think of.
So polish up your internet surf board and I am sure you will find one with a little effort.

 

I'll forward this to my mechanic. Thanks for the help

 

not to insult your "mechanic' but make sure that he/she is at least currently certified in something auto service in the last decade?
I can tell you if there was none you are going to be charged for a lot of their guessing!
Best advise look for a shop that has ASE signage on their building they will at least have an ASE employed with them. The highest percentage of independent service shops operating in the USA do not.
And currently certified ASE Automotive technician that tested and is current can diagnose an ECU DTC or other ECU reported issues in an hour or less. But you are generally charged an hour. There will be no guess work and the results of their find will be to test the failing or failed part and replace it. They should also offer you the old part and exactly what they found to be wrong with it. There is no such thing on a OBDII ECU, PCM, TCM as a mystery problem at least from most all manufactured vehicles from about 2002 to present.

ASE