Greetings All,
I have a 2000 Protege. Every morning, Mostly when it is cold, the car will not start unless I jump it with a battery pack. Once the pack is hooked up to the battery terminals, there is no hesitation, it starts right up. I can drive it to the next destination, and most of the time it will start just fine, sometimes it won't. I don't think that its the battery that is the issue, as the lights and radio will work just fine with out the car being started. Sometimes when I try and turn it over, I can hear it trying to start, it just doesnt get "Something". I am starting to think that there is a bad ground somewhere. I have noticed that when it rains or I drive in the snow, the car will die at the light, or if the radio is on, the lights, the heat, and the defroster, the lights will dim out and the car will stall if I dont turn something off. Last summer I pulled a code that our mechanic couldn't pinpoint, and the car was running like garbage, no accleration, horrible mileage, not shifting properly..etc. After 3 weeks of toying with it, I replaced the 02 sensors, and finally came to the conclusion that MAF was dead. After that, the car ran like a top.. Then the weather started getting colder, and now, the battery pack is the only way to get her started in the morning and evening.
Needless to say I am a little stumped. Fluid in the battery is at good level. Does this sound more like a grounding issue, or a bad battery, or possibly a coil issue. I have also noticed that the gas mileage SUCKS and there is a strong smell of gas after starting and acceleration.

Thanks Everyone,
Bill

 

i would check the wires that clip on the back of the alternator.

 

I HAVE A FRIEND THAT HAS A HONDA ACCORD AND HE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. HE HAD EVERYTHING CHECKED EVERYTTHING WAS FINE. SO ONE DAY HE TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE THEY CHECKED THE BATTERY. IT RESULTED THAT THE BATTERY HAD A BAD CELL AND FOR THAT REASON IT HAD TROUBLE STAYING ON AT A STOP. ALSO HIS LIGHTS WORKED ALSO THE RADIO BUT BECAUSE THEY WORK ON LESS ENERGY THAN THE VEHICLE ITSELF. SO HE CHANGED THE BATTERY AND EVERYTHING WORKS NOW NO PROBLEM.

 

It still might be the battery, especially if it is more that 4 years old. You need to get a hydrometer (battery electrolyte tester) and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte. There are different types, but the easiest and least expensive is the type with the 4 beads. Using the squeeze bulb, you just suck some electrolyte into from each cell until the hydrometer is filled and see how many beads are floating. If all 4 beads are floating, the battery is OK. If less than 4 beads are floating the cell is weak and if no beads are floating the cell is dead.

If you have one of more weak cells and the battery is 4 years old or older, I would say that it is time for a new battery. Your description of the symptoms makes me think that your charging system is working as the car runs fine unless you are idling with a lot of accessories running. Even if your charging system is working properly, running a lot of accessories at idle will actually draw more current than the alternator/generator can put out. If your battery can't make up the difference, things start to dim and slow down and the engine might stall as the ignition isn't getting enough voltage to fire the plugs.[align=left] [/align]

 

You mention an ignition coil. Does the car have a distributor?I would think that they were gone by2000.
If it does I can tel you that I once owned a Honda w/the same issue. It turned out to be a bad distributor cap out of the box.
And, like the others are saying, if your battery has a weak or dead cell and the starter (largest current user in the car) is trying to work on just 10 volts, that too might very well be the problem.

 

hondas had distributors on the non-v-tec models for a long time. sounds out dated. and it is.

 

Oh yeah. The Honda I referred to was an '80's model I owned quite a while ago. That's why I was surprised he mentioned a coil, unless he was referring to the individual coils on most ignition systems now?
"Need input."

 

my friend has a motor out of a 97 cr-v that still has a distributor.

 

hello, i am new to this whole things and do not know how to post something. I did read your messege, and i would be stumped too. I have a 06 mazda 6 that just had the 02 sensor replaced by recall, but i had no problom with it prior. After they performed the work on the car, i get horriable gas mileage. Normally, i can go around 175 miles on 1/4 tank, as the tank was on full. Now, i am only at 110-115 miles after just using 1/4 tank when filling up. Can you or do you know anyone that can help me figure this out!