The speedometer and odometer do not work. Before the cable broke the speedometer would make loud buzzing noise and the needle would peg even at low speeds. I was told by a reputable Mazda mechanic the issue was in the cluster and not the cable. He suggested I disassemble the cluster and see if I could find and fix the problem. The car is beater at best, so I put as little money in this thing as possible. I'm open to trying to fix the issue, but just the same I'd like to have a new used cluster to go in as it looks like a hassle to remove it in the first place. I'm looking on eBay for a used cluster and I see this ad:

90 91 94 95 Mazda Protege Instrument Cluster Panel Gauges Speedometer 27K | eBay

That doesn't look like mine but the seller claims it will work. I'm hopeful someone here can verify this claim.

Thank you,
Gary

 

I should mention my current cluster includes a tach, it's the overall layout that is different. I'm sitting in my car now and the general shape doesn't look correct. The eBay item has a more rounded appearance than mine. I'm dubious it will fit, but I suppose it's possible.

Gary

 

This is what mine looks like.

 

Gary, No. It doesn't even look close. Top mount are different also.

Did you take your cluster out or is that a stock photo from something? If you didn't take it out, do so. It's broke anyhow and it will have to come out sooner or later so rip it out. Now you can take a look at it and see if anything obvious broke. From what you described, I would agree the cluster lost it's mind internally. You do have a 2 piece speedo cable on your car and checking it and/or replacing it while the cluster is out would be the time to do so.

If you decide on purchasing a used cluster, make sure it's identical to the one your replacing. Should fit with a few swings of a ball peen hammer don't cut it.

 

Just for grins and giggles, give that cable a real close look. I want to make sure the cable didn't just come unglued and not have you waste money on a cluster that doesn't need replacing.

 

Thanks for the reply. The cluster in the pic is one I found on-line. I'm not too excited to just dig in without a known good replacement as it's my daily driver. I'd rather not be without the car for days on end while I try and source parts.

On your second reply, are you referring to the cable that is only accessible after pulling the cluster? BTW, is removing the cluster as big a pain as it looks or is it more straight forward? The mechanic I spoke with thought I might be able to fix the current speed-O with a little investigation and some lube. If getting it out isn't too bad maybe I will just give it shot without a replacement in hand. Maybe just as well as I've been trolling the web and haven't found a replacement yet. That picture is from a 2009 post on another Mazda forum, not for a part currently for sale.

 

Well, Hell's bells. I was searching the wrong words on eBay. It seems "1993 protege speedometer head" is what I should have been searching for. There are a few there. I'll try and identify the best value. On that note, is the problem I have weird and/or unusual? Is there any reason I shouldn't get a unit with 200k miles for $25 vs one with 100k miles for $75? Again, remember this car is a total beater. My wife will not ride in it, and she is embarrassed that I drive it. So I don't care about 200k vs 100k units necessarily, but I would spend a little more if it means not having to do the same repair again.

 

Plastic trim, a few screws, should be able to pull it out in less than 1/2 hour. I checked for you and there are a few Youtube video's out there that will point you in the right direction. You might be able to start and drive it even if the instrument cluster is removed, if you really had to. Give it a try after you pull it, won't have the gauges or turn signals, but it would only be if you had to.

I always try to fix what I have before heading out on an adventure. And yes, the cluster has to come out to access the cable. If it does run with cluster out, you can roll around the block and see if the cable is turning. And you should be able to spin the cable input on the cluster to see if it moves. I used to use a reversible battery op drill with a few tooth picks in the chuck. Some spin clockwise, some counter.

 

I installed the new speedo cable Saturday. The problem with my speedometer pegging with the weird buzzing noise was generally a winter issue, so I didn't necessarily expect that to happen right away. That said, the old cable I pulled off was in sorry condition. It's hard for me to imagine how the cable could have been causing the problem, but I'm willing to believe there is some chance it could have been the cause. Maybe it was very "gummy" and the top springish cable would hang and wind up tension then release. All in a rapid, repeating, succession. It was a thought I had after examining the cable. Regardless, it's great having it working again. It's been broke for at least three years.

So for the moment I'm going to let things ride and see how it plays out next winter.

I did have a problem that I'd like to run by you guys. When pulling off the trim to remove the cluster, the trim with the defrost, AC, etc, switches, the AC switch came apart. When I was trying to reinstall that trim I was unable to put the AC switch back. The cable isn't long enough to install the switch and plug it in before installing the trim. Also, I found a clip that was loose that I think might be associated with securing the AC switch in that trim piece. What am I missing about reinstalling that AC switch?