So I have this 95 Protege 1.5l. I had a tune up done, new plugs, wires and distributor cap, and I drove the car around for like three hours.

Stopped at the store to get a drink, and got back in, turned the key, and....again....again...nothing. It wouldn't turn over, not once.

When I got it home I had someone turn the key, and it made a quick three or four rap clicking sounds on this little sensor on the passenger side of the car, mounted on the firewall. It read the word boost on it. I put my hand on it and could feel it clicking.

Now this is my only vehicle. I pulled a battery out of my buddy's car and put it in mine just to make sure that wasn't it, and the protege didn't do anything when you hit the key, just the couple clicks.

Could it be the starter? Is there a starter fuse that I can check? Could it be the distributor? Should I pull the coil wire and have someone hit the key? Would that rule out an ignition switch problem?

I am a total noob when it comes to mazdas. I've owned this car for a couple years and haven't had any problems, just maintenance.

Any help would be appreciated. TIA.

Ryan

 

the easiest way to rule out spark plugs/wires/distributor is to go and buy a 5$ spark plug tester from autozone and test each wire if they are all running then its not the spark system, the thing is your car will run on 3 spark plug wires but the entire engine will shake because the pistons are not even so if you don't get a spark out of 2 of them olm your distributor cap i can't tell you the number that you will get but check one that is working and match your readings to the other 3 if everything is good there replace the wire but if thats not it there is the chance it could be the starter you can try taking your hand and pulling the belt a couple times to see if the engine was just stuck DON'T ATTEPMT STARTING IT WITH YOUR HAND IN THE BELT turn the belt a few times then try starting it. if not then look at that boost thing you were talking about on your firewall but if you took this out of the shop and 3 hours later quit you can talk to them they should take it in and see whats wrong.

 

Automatic or manual transmission? How many miles?
How did you get your car home? What other work, apart from ignition, was done?

If you can't get the engine to turn over, you can't expect to get a spark.
If it's got a manual transmission, put it in fourth or fifth gear, and WITH THE IGNITION OFF, rock the car back and forth while it's in gear. Now try starting. The gear coupling the starter motor to the flywheel wears with age and occasionally the starter won't engage properly and jams, producing the symptoms you described.
There is no starter fuse as such, the battery is directly connected to the starter motor via a solenoid switch, and the connecting cables are thick. Make sure the battery negative and chassis ground connections are clean and solid.

There are fuses however which will indirectly prevent the start sequence from getting underway. Do your general electrical functions i.e. lights, heater fan, accessories,horn etc. work?
If not, there is a big 100A "killer fuse" located in the engine compartment fuse box, but it rarely goes.
The map for the fuse/ function detail is located under the fusebox cover. Make sure all fuses are OK.
There is an interior fuse panel located inside the vehicle, on the driver's side door frame just to the left of your natural left foot position. It has a map under the cover too. Check those fuses as well.

The solenoid switch will supply starter power if (a) ignition key switch is in start position (b) car is in neutral or park (automatic trans.) or the clutch is fully depressed (manual transmission): PROVIDED that the general electrical system condition is OK.

About the only other thing that can prevent engine cranking is liquid in one or more cylinders. This can be determined by removing the plugs and then turning the engine over; needless to say this is not good, but in your case it sounds unlikely.
Kepp us informed on how you make out.

 

So yeah, I had already checked the fuses, all of them. I had thought maybe there was a relay or some stupid switch. I will get under the hood asap and check out the spark situation

 

Yeah, well don't waste too much time on ignition, because if you can't get the engine to even so much as crank over, you won't get any firing pulses anyway: so focus on getting the engine to turn over first, THEN worry about ignition issues later.
So please go back and re-read my post, answer those questions, do those checks, and get back to this forum.
Oh, and by the way, does your car have any anti-theft gear installed on it?

 

try rocking the car back and forward then try starting it. when you turn the key can you hear the starter make a click? it should be just one if you don't hear it, thats most likely the problem.

 

Ok, well I rocked the car back and forth and nothing in gear. It is a 5 speed. No mods, no anti theft. I found a starter at a junkyard with a warranty for $20. I'm gonna do that today, get it switched out. Can you point me to a decent diy?

Thank you guys for your quick replies. The more it was explained to me...well I understand now. The ignition sends the signal to the starter, so it wouldn't have anything to do with coil or distributor etc.

 

Don't pull that starter yet!
I'm assuming you've already made sure that the battery negative chassis ground connections are clean and tight.

There's an "acid test" you can do before you give up on the starter.
Look on the starter solenoid (the round thing on the starter body that the battery wire and start wire are connected to). You will see a smaller wire with a connector on it going to the solenoid; this is the start wire. Pull that connector off.

IMPORTANT!!! FIRST, PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL WITH HANDBRAKE SET ON !!

Now with a short jumper wire (a short piece of normal house wiring cable is fine), connect the terminal with the fat wire coming from the battery to the start wire tab beside it (where you removed the connector).
The starter motor should now crank the engine; if not, either the engine/ clutch plate ring gear is seized, or the solenoid/ starter motor assembly is defective.

This might save you the trouble of ripping out the starter and replacing it for nothing.
Get back to this forum with the result, because if the starter works, there are just a couple more things that can cause your problem and they aren't that hard to fix.

 

OK, well I got it started by push starting it. Runs real good

Parked it, turned the key..... nothing.

Irritated, I changed the starter out. I did try the jumper wire trick and got nothing, so I figured that had to be it. After changing the starter, still nothing. So I looked up at the button under the clutch, and realized it was disconnected, unplugged. There are two wires plugged into the wiring harness that the clutch switch should be plugged in that are running up towards the ignition. So I unplug those two wires, plug the plug back into the harness and try the key, and it runs. Starts up no problem. Got a check engine light, but the TP sensor wire looks frayed and loose, so that could be throwing the CEL.

The problem now is that the right blinker is flashing faster than the other side.

Also, when the headlights are on you can't see the brake lights coming on. When the headlights aren't on the brake lights work fine. There is also a burnt out headlight. It has a cracked lens and got water in it.

If the key is in the ignition, but not turned on, and I push the brake pedal there is a loud solid beep, like the door ajar alarm sounds.

I'm going to get another headlight today, while its light out.

Any suggestions?

 

Yes:
Get that headlight fixed, or leave its plug disconnected.
Make sure your battery terminals are free from corrosion and clean.
Run the engine at a fast idle and measure the volts directly at the battery posts.
You should see 13 - 14 volts: cut the engine,turn on the lights or defroster for 5 mins. then turn everything off. Measure the volts on the battery again; it should be around 12.5 volts (above 12 at least). If you don't get these readings you have a battery and/ or alternator problem which has to be corrected first.

Now disconnect the battery negative cable on the battery and at the other end where it bolts onto the ground distribution plate (it's bolted to the chassis on top of the driver's side suspension tower near the windshield wiper motor). This is the most important ground on the whole car. Undo the all three bolts and clean everything up including the plate really well, then reassemble it.
Now go to the passenger side of the car, and you'll see a big black wire bolted to one of the engine mount bolts; this is the engine block main ground, probably the second most important ground. Slacken or remove that connection and clean up that area as well before reassembly.
Now reconnect the battery negative supply and start the engine, do some electrical tests and let us know how things went.