Im in a real bind.

I need to treplace my lower control arm since the boot on my ball join is ripped and the ball joint has started to pop when its cold out.
so there is the rear bolt which goes threw the bushing. now the metal sleeve in the bushing is flat on 2 sides so it can not turn. How do i remove the control arm becuase it is stuck and I can not get it out. I have banged it and it didnt budge at all.

How is that bolt/Pin being held in there? How can I remove it?

Please help me out if you can

thanks
bob

its a 2002 Protege5. Drivers side

 

Use a pickle fork and a BFH (Big F-in Hammer - I prefer a 6lb sledge hammer) to split the ball joints from the knuckle. If you don't have one, some autoparts stores have them for loaners.

Don't hammer on the end of the threaded stud.

You'll replace the ball-joints, then once everything is back together, I'd get an alignment.

If you're talking the bushings that the a-arm rotates on, they may be pretty siezed in there. I'd plan on replacement units. Sometimes bushings have to be chiseled out.

 

ITs not hte ball joint i have a problem taking out.


its the rear bolt in the rear bushing. I have the new control arm with the bushing and ball joint on it. I jsut cant remove the lower control arm

Here are some pics of that helps.

Im goign to try the fork but I dont think that is going to do it.

Here is the new control arm with the bushing.




Here is the rear bushing still attached with the control arm

 

If it's got a bolt head on it, it's meant to turn. Have you tried hitting the bolt with some good penetrant (Kroil is a good one). I don't think a pickle fork will split that. That's a strange joint.

Is there a nut on the top side of the control arm as well.

Baby Huey has access to all kinds of service drawings, etc. You may want to PM him to see if he can shed some light on the subject.

 

ITs not meant to turn if you look at hte top picture which is the new bushing.

Ill trakc down baby huey

thanks

 

I have this same problem. Can somebody please reply with a solution? Thanks

 

That Bolt That Goes Thru The Rear Bushing IS JUST A BOLT. It May Be Seized In A Bit But It Does Turn And Unthread To Come Out. I Just Replaced the Passenge Side Control Arm And Even Though The Car Is 11 Yrs. Old (2000) It Did Come Out. The Rest Of The Replacement Is A Snap. Good Luck.

 

Reviving this in hopes of finding some help...

I'm replacing the right front lower control arm on my 2002 Mazda Protege DX. The rear bushing bolts came out no problem. The bolt that runs through what I would call the steering knuckle that holds the ball-joint inside would not budge. Tried heat, oil, no luck. Cut the nut off the rear side hoping to drive it out, no luck. Ended up cutting the middle of the bolt out to free the ball joint.

I cannot get this m-fer to budge. 2 questions:

1 - Is this bolt threaded through the knuckle? It's just held-on with the nut, right?

2 - What are my options here?

 

Man I got the same problem, that bolt that goes through the bushing just keeps turning. What i'll like to know is if it bolts to the subframe onto a nut that is welded onto the subframe or through the subframe and onto the floor? If onto the floor and that threading has stripped.....what do we do? Cut a hole in the floor, put a plate with threading?
Anyone?

 

MultiMazdaMan is correct. The rear vertical bushing bolt turns out like any bolt, it just takes a lot of convincing--and, note: you do not need to access a nut on top, only the bolt head. I did this today after reading this thread. I used Kroil penetrating oil (which is awesome) and an impact wrench. It did not budge for a while, but then came out. If you find yourself here because you're having this problem, just keep trying that bolt. There are no secrets to the whole job, really. It's as simple as it looks.