Cranks but no start
#12
11-16-2013, 06:30 PM
What I did do recently is disconnect the fuel line at the rail and with the key on check pressure. Do not know exactly what pressure was but fuel flowed at a pretty good rate.
#13
11-16-2013, 06:38 PM
The car will not start when I spray carb cleaner or starting fluid into the intake directly.
Nothing.
Nothing.
#15
11-16-2013, 07:10 PM
2002 Protege DX 2.0L w/5 speed.
Cranks but no start. Good spark on all 4 cylinders. Fuel present in rail and in cylinders. New plugs. Replaced fuel pump relay (bad). Fuel pump runs as I can hear it. Knock sensor error in computer cleared. Timing belt checks good. Cleared gas from cylinders, dried plugs and no change. cranks but no attempt to start. Compression seems ok but no tester. Cam and crank sensors could cause a no start? Any suggestions?
Cranks but no start. Good spark on all 4 cylinders. Fuel present in rail and in cylinders. New plugs. Replaced fuel pump relay (bad). Fuel pump runs as I can hear it. Knock sensor error in computer cleared. Timing belt checks good. Cleared gas from cylinders, dried plugs and no change. cranks but no attempt to start. Compression seems ok but no tester. Cam and crank sensors could cause a no start? Any suggestions?
#16
11-16-2013, 08:09 PM
Yes unless it jumped a tooth but it should still start if that was the case. Belt, tensioner, and water pump are fairly new and all are visually in good shape. I will test compression and do a leak down test next.
#18
11-16-2013, 11:03 PM
No I have to pull the valve cover and timing belt covers to see it. I put a new timing belt, tensioner, ideler, and water pump on at 100,000 and 200,000 miles. It now has 280,000 miles. Everything looks fine but Sunday I will check the actual timing marks at TDC. Thanks for your help.
#19
11-18-2013, 07:18 PM
disconnect the vacuum hose that goes into the fuel pressure regulator. if you see fuel in that tube, replace the pressure regulator.
the fuel pressure at the rail, with the ignition on and engine NOT running should be around 38-46 psi. engine idling= 29-34 psi. hold pressure 21 psi minimum. do you still have that knock sensor code? that will retard the timing to avoid detonations. that is a high mileage engine. check the cylinders compression. and check that the maf sensor is connected.
the fuel pressure at the rail, with the ignition on and engine NOT running should be around 38-46 psi. engine idling= 29-34 psi. hold pressure 21 psi minimum. do you still have that knock sensor code? that will retard the timing to avoid detonations. that is a high mileage engine. check the cylinders compression. and check that the maf sensor is connected.
Last edited by Juanky; 11-18-2013 at 08:07 PM.
#20
11-19-2013, 07:25 PM
Thank you all for your help. I will attempt these things as soon as I get the timing checked. Currently with engine on TDC it islooking like the cams are of by six teeth. Is this possible without damage? I need to confirm crank is at TDC and cams are set correctly. http://http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/mazda20camtimingtb.pdf