How much coolant should get by a closed thermostat at startup? can't think it should be much if its squeezing though the jiggle hole.
1998 protege LX 1.5L 195000 original engine and transmission (which is starting to misbehave a little but that's another story).
Wife threw the water pump belt and boiled the engine enough that the thermostat stuck open. Replaced belt, put in new thermostat (Gates 33489) and seemed to be working during the warmer weather, but I did notice temp gauge needle seemed a bit low - just below horizontal when I THINK it used to be fully horizontal normally.
Then I noticed radiator was leaking at top seam - so I ended up replacing that as well - not too big of a deal. Car runs fine no CEL.
As temps have dropped, it takes a LONG time to come off cold, and when we had an arctic spell of -10 to -20 F it didnt budge. Starting from cold, thermostat outlet hose to top of radiator starts getting warm immediately.
Using the OBDII reader Torque app I can see it the needle start to move at about 155 F - but return hose is hot at this point. Hose starts to get warm immediately and warms more with engine heating up.
I've pulled hose off radiator and put into a bucket - right off the bat cold engine its flowing like a garden hose. Is this normal?
I thought the new thermostat maybe bad so bought another (same brand diff supplier) and changed it out - same issue. Bought a new housing and brand new gasket, just switched that out (getting tired of draining and refilling rad).
Same problem - outlet hose starts heating up immediately, engine warms but gets to about 170 F max (outside air 50 F) - increasing speed temp actually drops back, rises up again if stopped at idle. Intake air temp gradually increases - think maybe its taking in air thats warmed through the rad?
Looking at the engineering, the thermostat just sits into the block, nothing holding it in - seems like it may not be quite flush up to to housing mating surface even? New gasket fits over studs but doesnt mate with or contact thermostat, housing opening is slightly smaller that thermostat flange so that SHOULD cause it to seal? No leaks never have been, all hoses are good still. Prob didnt need to replace housing but can't hurt.
So WHAT IS WRONG? tested thermostats and they open in boiling water (they are rated 88C 192 F) and close quickly after taking out. Flange is 2.05" or 52 mm so it is the correct size.
HELP!! Haven't needed dealer help since I owned this car new. Any and all suggestions will be considered!