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2001 portege highway problem

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  #1  
Old 12-23-2011, 02:38 PM
abbott1959's Avatar
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Smile 2001 portege highway problem

I just purchased 2001 Mazda Portege 2.0 LX from the auction last month.It starts and idels good.
When I drove the car on the freeway I noticed that when I get to about 60 MPH
the RPM will go up to 5 or 6 and the engine gets louder , so I let go of the gas peddal , then I feel a jerk or a shift in gears. This car has an automatic transmission. I got up to 75MPH and the same thing happens again and again every few seconds the RPM goes up, I let of the gas then the RPM goes down.
It has 138000 miles, the Transmission fluid is full.

It had a check engine with multiple misfire, then a Catylic Convertor code.
I changed the spark plugs so far, a mechanic looked at it and told me he thinks the transmission is bad, someone else told it is the catylic convertor causing the rpm to go high because it is clogged and the air goes back to the engine instead of going out. This mechanic cleared the CEL but I still have the frequent RPM surge even when driving 35 MPH. When I park the car I smel gasoline at the back of the car.
I appreciate an input or an opinion to this problem. HAPPY HOLIDAY TO EVERYONE.
 

Last edited by abbott1959; 12-24-2011 at 09:13 AM. Reason: add something that I forgot to mention ealier
  #2  
Old 12-26-2011, 01:20 PM
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Does that mechanic like you personally? I doubt it.

When reading yhour description I first thought "slipping transmission". But now I am thinking you have a rough running engine. And it is running so rough it may actually cause the transmission to shift erratically.
First you need to get the engine to run smoothly, before you (or your mechanic) can blame the transmission.
I don't see how a plugged converter can cause a spike in RPM. It will bog down your engine.
The best clue you give is that it smells like gasoline after driving. It means some gas does not get burned.
When you changed the plugs did you also change the wires, the rotor and cap? You need to change all of these items. Maybe you also need to change the coilpack. Inspect it carefully for signs of corrosion etc.
Look for vacuum leaks. In particular the vacuum hoses and the air intake hose. This one tends to crack at the ribbed section. Bend it to look for cracks. If there are cracks wrap some duct tape tightly around it.
Use midgrade or better fuel. 87 octane may not be enough.
Clean the egr system. Make sure the nipple for the vacuum line to the EGR boost sensor is open. It sits on the backside of the intake manifold.
Clean the MAF sensor with a can of MAF sensor cleaner.

Your engine should run a bit better with every measure you apply.

Still the Cat may be bad. Some try cleaning the catalytic converter. Search Youtube for that.

Let us know how it goes.
 
  #3  
Old 12-28-2011, 10:59 AM
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Thank you very much for the info., I need to know how to check the ignition coils. I know that spark plugs 1 and 4 together and 2 and 3 together. The guy from Advanced Auto told me that the car does not have a distributor only ignition coils. Also would you be able to tell me the location on the car for that MAF sensor and any other ignition parts. Thank you for your help
 
  #4  
Old 12-30-2011, 09:48 AM
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Well, I suggest you buy the Haynes manual for your specific model. It will show you the location of things and how they look. It also give you the Ohm values and voltage values you need to test things.

I replaced the coil pack on my Ford Windstar because there was a visible sign of corrosion inside one of the towers where the ignition wires attach.
So you need to inspect the coil packs for obvious things like that. Beyond that you would have to get a multimeter and check for the proper values.

That is too much stuff to put into a post.

Good luck
 
  #5  
Old 01-04-2012, 07:11 PM
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You may find this site useful. Downloaded the manual (web version) and used it to determine bad resistance on one my wife's '03 plug wires.
 
  #6  
Old 01-23-2012, 02:22 PM
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thank you very much, I read into the manual thank you again. Quick update I took the car to the Mazda dealer and it is confirmed that the transmission is bad, but they could not tell me which part in the transmission is bad. I am shopping for a used transmission right now. Another mechanic told me without looking at the car that the transmission is going in and out of the OVERDRIVE and this makes sense . Did anybody has similar problem before and what to do about the OVERDRIVE. Thanks
 

Last edited by abbott1959; 01-30-2012 at 08:58 AM.
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