Hi all its been a little while since I've been here which I guess is a good thing since my car has been running good. Driving home on hwy all of a sudden I heard a small boom and I saw engine light come on All electrical was still running ac/fan /radio I quickly found out my engine died got off safely on shoulder.unfortunately I removed battery cable and lost any codes that where in there. It wont start at all had to get it towed home. I've checked all fuses and all are good I did some searching and everyone is saying its probably a bad crankshaft sensor. I checked it with my meter and it reads about 600ohms I also checked camshaft sensor and it reads 1.2k ohms. The engine cranks like normal but it wont start,I checked voltage going to crankshaft sensor at plug and I only get 1.5 volts on either wire to grd. Not sure if it should be 5vdc or 12 vdc either way sounds like I dont have proper power going to it. I hope it isnt my pcm thats the problem. Ive had a problem with the MAF sensor yrs ago cleaned it and same issue car wont start. I did hook up my code reader and I can see some feedback from MAF so I assume its good. I also noticed from previous troubleshooting the MAF the pcm lets you try a few times and if car doesn't start it will shut down spark,fuel to prevent damage. I had a guy stop to try to help me out and we did have spark,and fuel when line pulled off on feed tube. Thanks for any help

 

Update I took out the plugs and they're white and dry so in fact Im not getting fuel and doesn't look like Im getting spark either. Not sure if the crank sensor has caused it to totally shut down too hard to do these tests in driveway have to pull it into garage and continue have to wait til Sat lucky I have another car...

 

Update did compression test and got none.. took valve cover off and found this....Now need to do leak down test hopefully valves arent bent

Found my issue hope valves arent bent need to do leak down test

 

Wow sorry about your timing belt I think you have a non interference engine so it shouldn’t have effected anything

 

Well Im not too sure about that since I did a leak down test and 123 cylinders give almost same readings except the 4th I dont barely get anything ...So not sure if something is not sealing in there, I can hear noise from air intake and exhaust pipe. That apparently means leaky or bent valve. So I have to take it apart the broken belt was caused by something since belts dont just snap. The tensioner spring just got stretched on the end of it. So Im wondering it would be nice if I could get a old belt and try it but it might do more damage? Not sure.....

 

That hurts just looking at it. Did you take the cams out (or rotate them) before the leakdown?

 

I left cams in and rotated them as needed to find the correct spot for each cylinder. I compared position of cams for cylinder#1 and set #4 the same as TDC, same goes for both. 2+3 I set the cams for them also the same at TDC. I did get readings for 1to 3 but the 4th barely moved so that to me means something isnt sealing...Thanks

 

Sounds like it's toast. Before you remove the cams get a feeler gauge and check the valve clearance on all valves (write them down).

Due to an epic failure on my part, I snapped the cam chain in my Corolla. Of course, interference fit. #4 intake had .221" (no, I didn't misplace the decimal) clearance.

 

I did that, and I have 10th on all, so go figure. Ill check it again which I just did and yep all the same. I want to try to find a old belt and try it out before going further I saw a video on youtube and the guy says he always tries a belt 1st before tearing head off which I was thinking of before but was worried about doing further damage. But of course the problem is finding a used one and a new here is about 60$ and It has to be ordered. Thanks

 

Cheap timing belts are about $10 at Rockauto. The AC Delco one is $20. Still have to order though.