Mazda BT 50 & Pickup Trucks While Mazda may not be known for their trucks, they have always produced quality reliable trucks for both hauling cargo, or simply crusing. BT 50

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Old 05-29-2009, 06:47 PM
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Well I have not heard from any one on the other threads. Has anyone ever fixed the smoke when cold start. Does anyone know if it can be done without rebuilding the bottom half of engine, because on another forum I kept seeing that even after the rebuild people had the same problem. I am trying Marval mystery oil and pouring it into the spark plug hole and letting it sit for a week. I then plan to run it for awhile and then change the oil. Has anyone successfully fix this problem? or is it the end of those rings, because I have great compression in all the cylinders and it runs great except for all the smoke and oil consuption. I have never heard of a engine with good compression and burn oil. Any help will be appreciated.
 
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:59 PM
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Every engine consumes oil. How much oil are you consuming between oil changes? You didn't list the make,model and year of vehicle? What are the compression numbers you got from your test? Whats the difference between the manufactures compression rate and your compression rate? Bad valve guides also cause smoke at start up.
 
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Old 05-29-2009, 11:23 PM
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Sorry about not listing anything. It is a 1989 b2200 pickup. The compression is 165, 160, 155, 160. It says in book 173 no lower than 121 compression. I had the head rebuilt, and everything on it is new. I took it off and had it checked twice only to be told it is not the head. The engine has 118,000 on it the head 100 miles on it. I bought the truck being told it had been overheated and the mechanic said it needed a head gasket. In doing the job it had to wait a year for my shoulder to have surgery. so it sat for a year. It runs great other than burning a quart in 250 miles. It smokes real bad on start up and than 5 min later stops. I read it is either rings or vavle stem seal. I know it isn't seals, so I am trying to get the oil rings to do there job. Even though it has great compression it said in many places that the oil rings are stuck to the piston, or worn. I don't think they are worn if the compression rings are still in good condition to have such good compression. I am hoping some one else had this problem and figured out a remedy. Thanks for any help.
 
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Old 05-30-2009, 06:12 AM
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One quart every 250 miles, wow! You stated the truck sat for a year, what steps did you take for start up after that amount of time? You know if a vehicle sits that long ALL THE OIL DRAINS TO THE BOTTOM, and if the proper steps are not followed at start up damage can occur.
 
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Old 05-30-2009, 06:18 AM
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Oil rings allow oil to get by them by design to lubricate the piston skirts. The second ring is the scraper ring which keeps too much oil from getting to the compression ring. Carbon accumulation is generally the culprit in the scraper ring piston grooves. The carbon builds up and after shutting the engine off hardens from heat soak overnight effectively causing the ring to stick until the carbon soaks up enough oil to loosen it up freeing the ring.
The MMMO in the plug holes could help but what i do is put half a bottle of Seafoam in the crankcase and half in the gas tank. A bottle of MMMO in the crankcase helps too but it will take time. You can also try putting Seafoam in the plug holes and letting it soak in too. Crank the engine over without the plugs in it anytime you add fluids into the plug holes so as not to bend a rod.
 
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:08 AM
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To go in order I put some oil in the spark plug holes and hand cranked it and the turned over without spark plugs to let oil out of cylinders. That is what I did before starting up after sitting a year.
Thanks for Seafoam info, I will do that tomorrow. How long do you keep the seafoam in before I change the oil?
 
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:20 AM
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I would leave it in at least 100 miles or more in this case. You can leave it in longer,say 500 miles since if it does not work you will need to overhaul the bottom end anyway.
 
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Old 05-30-2009, 07:39 AM
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Thanks if I can I will do it today and hope it is all it needs. I really do not want to have to have bottom half built. I just want to drive this truck.
 
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Old 05-30-2009, 12:13 PM
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I routinely add about 8 ounces of oil each week; my '88 B2200 does not smoke, 150K, runs fine, but uses some oil, doesn't leak it (anymore). I did the math, decided best way was just to drive it, check, and add oil, the topping off with oil costs under $50 per year, well cheaper than a major repair just for that reason. I'd say for me about 1 quart in 500 to 100 miles. Some feel that engines that use oil last longer than those that don't, better lubrication. Just don't run out of oil.
 
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:00 PM
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I drove it hard for 30 miles, and I know you said 100 or more, but I still had the mystery oil, and I don't want to take a chance. It seemed alot better, after the run, but I am not sure. I replaced the oil with 10/30 castro motor oil. should I have used 10/40 or does it matter? I guess if it did not smoke I would not care if it used a little bit of oil, but it smokes and uses more than I like. I hope this is going to take care the problem. I notice while pouring the seafoam in carb that the choke butterfly is not quite opened all the way, is there a way to adjust it. I also was wondering if anyone has some really good pictures of the vacuum lines?
 


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