no fuel, no fire
#1
08-03-2009, 01:31 PM
no fuel, no fire
hello,
i have a 88 b2000. my ignition switch died in the truck, so i replaced it with a heavy duty flip switch and a push button start. the truck has been running fine until last weekend. it started with a low idle, then it would shut off at a light. it would start right back up, so i thought maybe bad gas. commin home from work the truck shut down on me. i had it towed home and realized that i had no fire or fuel. i've tested every connection on the switch and under the hood. the ignition coil is new, as is the cap and rotor button. if you guys can give me any ideas it would really be helpful. thanks for all of your help
i have a 88 b2000. my ignition switch died in the truck, so i replaced it with a heavy duty flip switch and a push button start. the truck has been running fine until last weekend. it started with a low idle, then it would shut off at a light. it would start right back up, so i thought maybe bad gas. commin home from work the truck shut down on me. i had it towed home and realized that i had no fire or fuel. i've tested every connection on the switch and under the hood. the ignition coil is new, as is the cap and rotor button. if you guys can give me any ideas it would really be helpful. thanks for all of your help
#2
08-03-2009, 03:26 PM
It could still be the ignition switch,you can buy just the electrical portion of the switch. The other most common problem is the ignitor inside the distributor. If it is an automatic trans model there is a noise suppressor mounted beside the coil (not the one on the distributor) that can be bypassed that gives problems. Sounds like yours is an automatic since they come with electric fuel pumps and manual trans models came with mechanical pumps. There will be no power to the pump if the ECU does not see spark. The ignitor is generally more expensive to buy than a rebuilt distributor.
Last edited by hixx; 08-03-2009 at 03:30 PM.
#3
08-04-2009, 01:19 PM
the truck is 5 speed. im goin to replace the distriputor soon and hopfully get fire. the fuel pump is another issue. i would think that 2 major parts could go at one time. maybe its just my luck lol.
#4
08-06-2009, 08:50 AM
I'd (always) focus on what you recently repaired.
First make sure it's ignition-related. Spray some aerosol starting fluid into the carb or air cleaner, and try to start. Do this again. If it runs for a few seconds, even rough, then the problem is fuel delivery. Pull off the fuel line going to the carb, hold in a jar (DANGER: be careful of spark or flames) have someone crank the engine, ensure fuel is flowing. If it is, re-attach.
If it doesn't start, then it's spark-related, then focus on whether the coil is getting voltage on its positive side when in the "run" position (voltmeter preferred, or test light).
We're assuming the engine spins normally when you engage the starter.
First make sure it's ignition-related. Spray some aerosol starting fluid into the carb or air cleaner, and try to start. Do this again. If it runs for a few seconds, even rough, then the problem is fuel delivery. Pull off the fuel line going to the carb, hold in a jar (DANGER: be careful of spark or flames) have someone crank the engine, ensure fuel is flowing. If it is, re-attach.
If it doesn't start, then it's spark-related, then focus on whether the coil is getting voltage on its positive side when in the "run" position (voltmeter preferred, or test light).
We're assuming the engine spins normally when you engage the starter.
#5
08-06-2009, 07:12 PM
the engine spins normally when i hit the starter. i am getting power from the coil when the switch is on. i'm not getting any spark, i havn't gotten the distributor yet but i think thats were my problem. i took a the line off the fuel filter and turned the moter over and nothing. after i get the distributor, ill have to takle the fuel problem. it just boggles me that 2 major systems would go down at once. gotta love it 
#7
08-10-2009, 03:24 AM
The ignition module for the distributor is about $45 the distributor will be atleast $180.
How did you test it for spark? Many people unwisely just pull a plug wire while it is cranking which is the worst way to test it because it often fries out the ignition module. You should have a spark tester that either goes between the wire and the spark plug or one that connects to the wire and has an alligator clip to connect straight to ground so there is no stray voltage.
Two simple ways to test the ignition module, remove it and take it up to advance auto or auto zone or use an LED test light. Connect the alligator clip to the posative terminal on the coil and have someone hold the other end on the negative terminal while someone cranks the engine. If the light blinks then it is not the module, if it doesn't blink then you've probably found the problem.
Also clean your battery terminals and ground points, it is possable that the connection is good enough to read 12 volts and try to crank, but it may not be getting enough current to actually run the truck. This drove me batty on the side of the interstate one day.
Check the fuel filter for rust particles, it's another common problem that has similar results. The rust particles will get past the filter and plug up the jets in the carb. If this is the case even a new filter will usually have a few flakes in it after a tank or two of gas. Only way to fix it is to clean the tank and the carb.
Avoid taking wild guesses when replacing things, all it does is burn a hole in your pocket.
How did you test it for spark? Many people unwisely just pull a plug wire while it is cranking which is the worst way to test it because it often fries out the ignition module. You should have a spark tester that either goes between the wire and the spark plug or one that connects to the wire and has an alligator clip to connect straight to ground so there is no stray voltage.
Two simple ways to test the ignition module, remove it and take it up to advance auto or auto zone or use an LED test light. Connect the alligator clip to the posative terminal on the coil and have someone hold the other end on the negative terminal while someone cranks the engine. If the light blinks then it is not the module, if it doesn't blink then you've probably found the problem.
Also clean your battery terminals and ground points, it is possable that the connection is good enough to read 12 volts and try to crank, but it may not be getting enough current to actually run the truck. This drove me batty on the side of the interstate one day.
Check the fuel filter for rust particles, it's another common problem that has similar results. The rust particles will get past the filter and plug up the jets in the carb. If this is the case even a new filter will usually have a few flakes in it after a tank or two of gas. Only way to fix it is to clean the tank and the carb.
Avoid taking wild guesses when replacing things, all it does is burn a hole in your pocket.
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