Mazda MPV This minivan was among the class leaders with its roomy interior and efficient powertrain.

stuck shifter

  #1  
Old 03-31-2006, 02:05 AM
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Default stuck shifter

My friend has a stuck shifter on a 2000 MPV. Found the release in the steering column, can shift it when released, but doesn't drive right at all. What's the most likely problem?
 
  #2  
Old 03-31-2006, 09:44 PM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

Do the brake lights work? If not then check the 15 Amp 'STOP' fuse in the underdash fuse block.
 
  #3  
Old 03-31-2006, 10:09 PM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

Brake light does work, checked all fuses--fuses good, and power to them. Radio and speedometer out also, lights and tachometer work.

Andy
 
  #4  
Old 04-01-2006, 01:13 AM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

Is there anything else that does not work? Any little piece of info about things that are not working will help to pinpoint the problem.
 
  #5  
Old 04-01-2006, 02:00 AM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

Only other thing that doesn't work that I noticed is the shift indicator. The other possibly relevant item is that it has an aftermarket security device. But the company that made that says it couldn't be causing this problem--it would shut the vehicle down completely.

Van's in the shop now--I won't be able to check anything else out. I'll let you know what they find...


Andy
 
  #6  
Old 04-02-2006, 04:34 AM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

Please do. Am very curious to know what the problem could be. Double check the 15A 'CIGAR' fuse in the underdash fuse box. I am wondering if the trans range sensor is at fault but that should have also turned on the CEL.???
 
  #7  
Old 04-04-2006, 12:55 AM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

The van is fixed. I got the details indirectly, but as nearly as I can understand from what my wife relates it to me, it was the solenoid that releases the shifter when you push on the brake pedal, or some circuit that operates that solenoid, that got fried. She also said he reset the computer. Apparently something got scrambled in it which caused the other symptoms (speedometer out, shift indicator out, performance problems) I'm guessing he was referring to the computer in the dashboard, not the main computer--the local shade tree guy scanned it last week and didn't find any relevant codes.

But this is the interesting part: shop says the cause was a KNOWN ISSUE: the CD player builds up static, and the discharge of the static can burn out various components. He said not to play any more CDs until they get the CD player case replaced with a plastic one--apparently Mazda is responsible for that.

Andy
 
  #8  
Old 04-04-2006, 10:04 PM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

How much did all of this 'repair work' cost by the way??

#1 There is no computer to reset that would cause that. The PCM is only computer that is programmable and it does not have any control over shift indicator or speedometer or radio.
#2 There is no such plastic case available for the radio/cd. There was a very early production issue where the sound would cut off due to overloading but that only effected the sound operation and nothing else. Here is an exerpt from the bulletin. I have a bad feeling that you may have been taken on this one.

TSB: 09-010/03
MULTIPLE MODELS - CD MODULE MALFUNCTIONS
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
All Mazda vehicles with single CD module audio that are manufactured by FMS

DESCRIPTION
Some customers may complain the CD module (single CD) malfunctions and no sound is heard from the speakers. When switching to the other modules (radio, cassette tape, and MD), all features are functional except no sound is heard from the speakers as well. This condition is caused when a disc is inserted into the CD module, static electricity is discharged inside the CD module causing the malfunction.

The mass production procedure has been changed to correct this concern.

Customer having this concern should have their vehicles inspected/repaired using the following procedure.



REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE: Do not replace the CD module immediately. First diagnose the problem per the following procedure, then replace the CD module with an exchange unit if necessary.

1. Record all radio presets.
2. Disconnect the room fuse (10A) or negative battery cable and wait for more than 30 seconds, then operate the CD module.
If normal operation is restored and there is no problem with other modules (radio, cassette tape, and MD), only replace the CD module with an exchange unit according to appropriate Workshop Manual.

If normal operation is not restored, the problem may exist in other areas. Perform normal troubleshooting according to appropriate Workshop Manual.

NOTE: In some cases normal operation of radio, cassette, and MD modules may be restored when CDs eject button is depressed. However, CD module still malfunctions.

3. Reprogram all radio presets.


.
 
  #9  
Old 04-05-2006, 01:01 PM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

The cost was about $69. That may be high if in fact he just replaced a fuse, but considering another mechanic had spent a bunch of time on it and couldn't find the problem, we were pretty happy with that price, regardless of how he did it. I didn't see the technical bulletin myself, but he did provide a copy to the owner. I will try to get a copy.

If the computer doesn't have any control over the shift indicator or radio, what could go out that would affect the radio, speedometer, shift indicator, shift release solenoid, and NOT the brake light?

By the way, I neglected to mention (because I thought, and still think, it is irrelevant) the Check Engine light has been on for years. Had a couple trips to the dealer, got the light off, comes on again despite running fine. The first mechanic who looked at it here (for the shifter problem) found one error code, I think he said it was related to the coolant system.

Thanks for the interest.

Andy
 
  #10  
Old 04-05-2006, 03:48 PM
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Default RE: stuck shifter

$69 not too bad even if it was only a blown fuse. 1 hour is fairly standard to diagnose an electrical problem even if it was a fuse. From the repair description you gave I was afraid it was maybe in the 2-300 dollar range. If you still have access to the van, get to the underdash fuse box and pull the 15 Amp 'CIGAR' fuse. Fuse locations are on the backside of the cover but it is the bottom fuse in the right column. You will find that all of the problems you had will be duplicated with that fuse out out or 'blown'.

You do not happen to remember the code that was stored when the CEL keeps coming on do you?
 
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