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changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

  #1  
Old 03-27-2007, 03:54 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
Default changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

i've changed spark plugs and wires before but have never had this problem: the plugs are under other engine parts. how do i get to them?it's a mazda 2000 mpv. v6
 
  #2  
Old 03-27-2007, 04:59 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,747
Default RE: changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

You should not have to remove the upper intake manifold assembly to get to the 3 back spark plugs. Front spark plugs are accessible after removing the IMRC actuator bolted to the left valve cover with 3 bolts.
 
  #3  
Old 05-30-2007, 05:01 PM
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 3
Default RE: changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

I have a 2002 mpv and I NEED to change the spark plugs ASAP, one of them is dead.
I got the plastic cover off and saw 3, what look like a sprak plugs covers, screwed to the
engine. Where are the other three?
Can anyone help, thanks.

Isacc
 
  #4  
Old 05-30-2007, 07:21 PM
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Default RE: changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

Those "spark plugcovers" are actually individual ignition coils for each cylinder of the engine. The three in the back are underneath the intake manifold so the entire manifold needs to be removed out of the way to gain access to the three in the back. You probably have a dead coil and not a spark plug as it is extremely common on the 02 and later MPV to have failing coils. The problem is finding which coil(s) have failed by determining which cylinder is missfiring. Assume this is why you figure to have a dead spark plug anyway. There is a long series of letters and number imprinted into the top of the coil. Your should end with either AA or AB. Make sure any new coils you get have the AC suffix as this is supposedly the latest and greatest part.
 
  #5  
Old 05-30-2007, 10:09 PM
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 3
Default RE: changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

Thanks.
I looked "hard" and found them under the intake.
Interesting thing is that the problem is gone, the car was jerking lightly
when standing like ata traffic signal. Well the "check engine" light is
gone and the jerkyness is gone too, I hope for good

But Iwill keep in mind your suggestion of the coil gone bad, next time it comes
back. Wonder what it was, a bad plug would never fix itself.

Is there a good way to tell the difference between bad coil or plug?

Isacc
 
  #6  
Old 05-31-2007, 10:06 AM
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 3
Default RE: changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

BTW, forgot to mention that I had pulled the codes when the check engine light was on.
The Autozone guys came up with 174 and p300, which caused me to think it might be a
spark plug problem, but given the fact the check engine light is now off and the jerkyness
is gone, I am no longer sure what is wrong.

Isacc
 
  #7  
Old 05-31-2007, 10:38 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,613
Default RE: changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

I've gotten condensation (water) in my fuel before that caused an intermittently rough running problem.

Depending on the mileage on your vehicle, it may not be a bad idea to change the plugs anyway. I try to replace them around 50-60,000 miles to keep the engine running smooth.

Just had plugs go bad on my 2000 Taurus @ 92,000 miles. Code pulled misfire #3 cyl. Changed plugs, problem solved. I've also had multiple ignition coils go bad at around 100,000 miles(01 F-150 5.4L)

If it mis-fired once, the problem will eventually return. Doing the repair now/later all depends on where you want to do the repair (in your garage or on the side of the road.)
 
  #8  
Old 05-31-2007, 07:30 PM
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Posts: 2,747
Default RE: changing spark plugs 2000 mpv

Interesting set of codes that you were fortunately able to retrieve. The P0300 is a random missfire and the P0174 is fuel control system too lean in the left bank. Am wondering if you have perhaps had the notorious PCV hose rupture. This would create a large vacuum leak that would have caused a random miss as well as run the fuel control system lean. Right bank should have also been lean but perhaps it did not occur long enough to drive that side to lean limit to get the CEL to code for it. Have seen this hose rupture and leak long enough to cause what you are describing and then hose continues to collapse in on itself and seals up the leak.
This hose was recalled for replacement years ago in place of a rigid line that was a bit more oil resistant. You might want to feel on the back side of the intake manifold for this hose with engine running and see if it has collapsed. There are only two hoses coming off of the back side of the intake. One is rather small and the other is very large ( 1 inch diameter or so at the manifold connection). Just follow that hose on around with you hand and see if it feels all soft and mushy. From themanifold it should go down and then angle over the valve cover towards the air cleaner housing area.With engine running you might even be able to find the leak. When it is disturbed it may leak again and make a loud hissing noise. This hose should be very hard and you would not be able to pinch closed. If you can then you still have old crappy hose installed. PM me with last 8 digits of your VIN if you are unsure if this recall was performed and would like me to check for you.
 
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