Mazda Millenia This sedan, the flagship luxury sedan, offers both a naturally aspirated and supercharged model, so you can have your luxury, and, if you have a need for speed, big horsepower.

Pulley problem

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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 04:10 PM
  #1  
Captn's Avatar
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Default Pulley problem

A 1995 Milly S and have heard a noise and located it to a loose pulley rubbing up beside the oil dipstick tube. I this a tensioner or something else. It is exactly located below the SC and slightly back beside the dipstick. Any help to identify this please.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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Default RE: Pulley problem

I am having a real hard time finding this idler pulley on the internet. Been through most parts sites with no luck.

It is the belt that runs the supercharger. Comes off the drive shaft double pulley, up over the SC pulley and down to (maybe) the power steering pump (lower back of engine) then up over "this" idler pulley and back to the drive pulley again.

Is this idler pulley an auto tensioner pulley, it's really hard to tell and I'm sure a mechanic would know this.

Maybe its only available from a dealer or I'm just not looking in the correct site.

Mechanics, please help.

Many thanks...
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 05:14 AM
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Default RE: Pulley problem

I hear you Captn and will check in the morning for the part number and see where you can get a replacement.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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Default RE: Pulley problem

The bolt looks loose, its a 17mm and does it just bolt into the block?
Thanks Babyhuey, I'll check back tomorrow.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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Default RE: Pulley problem

The pulley that sounds like you are talking about is the auto-tensioner for the power steering belt. The 17mm bolt in the center should not tun independently of the pulley. In order to loosen the tension and allow removal of the drive belt you would put a 17mm wrench onto the center bolt and rotate clockwire approx 45'. If you can turn this bolt then go ahead and try to tighten up and see if it will, Could have just come loose for some reason. The bolt actually threads into the tensioner base so if threads are stripped or damaged then you could replace the entire assembly without damage to the block. Pulley is not available separately from the base either as thereis amoster spring inside that gives you thetension.The tensioner base bolts to the front of the block with three 12mm bolts. Do not see that the 17mm center bolt is available so would guess that must be included with a new tensioner if needed. Part number is KJ01-15-980C. msrp of $356.25 and at www.onlinemazdaparts.com for $285.
Hopefully bolt has just worked itself loose and will be able to retighten.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/87AD65F808E542768C6A9554AEF75246.gif[/IMG]
Is the one labeled Auto Tensioner the loose one?

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/0CBC5047C0CE46BCB4A405C0598B7F7D.gif[/IMG]
This is just showing how you would use a box end wrench to release belt tension. You can kind of make out the 3 12mm tensioner attaching bolts. Two on the left side of pulley and one on the right side.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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Default RE: Pulley problem

Thanks very much for the information. Yes, that is the pulley with the 17mm bolt loose. The pulley has stoped turning, hope that it is up against the dipstick tube, and the belt has broke. I think the first thing to do is to remove this belt tensioner for closer examination.

Quick question, do you have the belt layout diagram for the outside belt as it is going to have to come off to get the other threaded over drive pulley. Is there a list of diagrams available or do you post them as required?

Many thanks...
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 09:23 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: Pulley problem

I just go copy off a drawing from the Mazda site. There is not a general listing or diagram that I know of Captn. Here is the other belt routing. The bottom pic just show which direction to rotate each of the pulleys to relieve tension.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/EDFDABE7DAB24ABCBC8EC4CAD9B4591E.gif[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/DC23EFB0578642C9BD66BFC28D18AC29.gif[/IMG]
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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Exclamation My '98 Millenia S.

I won my car through the Vocational school. In November, I heard a loud screeching noise and I took it to the shop. The belt was worn out and the tensioner and pulley asslembly was completely destroyed. I'm really struggling because I'm having to use my Dad's car a lot and I hate having to keep doing this. I can't even get a job because I don't have my car fixed. I just really need the help. I CAN NOT find the right pulley for my car. I don't want to pay 400 some dollars for it and it's hard for me to save up the money. Don't know what to do. I need help on finding the right part. If there is anyone who knows about a smooth pulley assembly, PLEASE let me know. I would greatly appreciate it.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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keninn's Avatar
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From:
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Originally Posted by alice420
I won my car through the Vocational school. In November, I heard a loud screeching noise and I took it to the shop. The belt was worn out and the tensioner and pulley asslembly was completely destroyed. I'm really struggling because I'm having to use my Dad's car a lot and I hate having to keep doing this. I can't even get a job because I don't have my car fixed. I just really need the help. I CAN NOT find the right pulley for my car. I don't want to pay 400 some dollars for it and it's hard for me to save up the money. Don't know what to do. I need help on finding the right part. If there is anyone who knows about a smooth pulley assembly, PLEASE let me know. I would greatly appreciate it.
there are 2 tensioner assemblys. water pump, power steering, and compressor is KJ01-15-980c, sugg list price 390.68, parts.com discount price, 269.51

http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...archCatalogOEM

the other tensioner is for alternator and a/c compressor, KJ02-15-980B, about 10 bucks more. there are 2 common problems with these tensioners. if the spring is broke, then the belt flops around, and it will not drive the accessories. if the spring is broke, you have no choice but to get another. if the pulley is frozen, but the spring is still good, you can take the pulley off, and press off/press on a new bearing. the bearing is quite common, and they cost about 30 bucks at any auto parts store. each tensioner is a bit tricky to remove, iirc, each is held to the block by 3 bolts, and the engine will have to be raised to get clearance, which means disconnecting the passenger side motor mount, and supporting the engine with a jack. to make it more accessible, i remove the upper radiator hose, which means draining the radiator.
 
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