Recently, my tilt steering wheel is on the blinks. It is not responding and is stuck in the up position. Is there a fuse I should check, maybe a worn wire that is the culprit? Please help if you have ideas on what this could be. Thanks in advance.

 

Do you hear a clicking noise when you try to lower steering wheel,
if so, your worm gear on your electric motor is stuck on the column gear teeth. You can remove motor and move gear teeth on the column geara little with a flat screw driver. ************** More info***************
Found tilt motor and removed off steering column.
The motor worked fine, column gear must have got hung up a
little, on motor worm gear. The column gear is nylon, motor worm
gear is steel. I moved nylon gear a little before I re-installed
motor in case it was stuck. Works fine!I'm not using auto-tilt feature,
move with switch next to auto buttonwhen needed. The nylon gear is probably on its way out and you can't order just the nylon gear, you have to order the lower half shaft of column/ OOOOPS! ........$1000.00
You can find the motor if you follow the bottom of the steering
column to the lower dash panel,there will be a gap between column
and the panel, you will see four screws(tilt motor)" hint, use a small pair of
vise grips to break lose the scews" . Hope this helps!

 

i also have the problem with the tilt steering wheel, when i put on the automatic it sometimes doesn't go down when i put my keys in, and i have to put in and pull out my key several times for it to work. i was wondering if that could be connected to rprice's issue

 

I had the same problem on my '98 Millenia. Two things help: The lesser of the two is to remove and replace several times the fuses and relays. This helps. The second is to rebuild the electrical side of the ignition switch.

The occasion of rebuilding my switch was that the starter would run on after starting with a grinding and graunching sound. Upon disassembling the switch, I found a streak of copper powder across the top of the grease lubricating the unit, making the contact area longer that it should have been, and causing the started run on after releasing the key from the start position to the run position.

You can get at the electrical side from under the dash - it is very tight My head wouldn't fit under with my glasses on - not necessary to remove the dash (that would be a royal pain), but there is a shield (probably to prevent hot-wiring), held on by two 10 mm nuts (as I recall), to take off first. There is also a screw on the back to remove and the connector to depress before the thing comes off.

Disassembled the switch, polished to a mirror finish the burned copper contacts with Dremel, felt polishing wheel (~1/2" diameter), and jeweler's rouge. Greased with silicon grease.

Re-assembled. No more problems with the starter AND no more problems with the steering wheel motor failing to operate.