If you are getting oil into the #1 spark plug hole, down where the spark plugs thread into the cylinder head then you definitely have leaking valve cover gaskets and if it is leaking into the plug wells can almost guarantee that it is leaking down the front backside of the engine. Both are very common leakage points. Mazda even came up with different design valve cover gaskets to address the problem. Make sure that if you replace valve cover gaskets you replace all of the little grommets at each valve cover attaching bolt. The rubber portion of the grommet is what actually applies the downward pressure evenly onto the gasket. You will find them a little pricy but have heard of way to many people skipping this step and have leaking gaskets again the following month.[:@]
Do not know where you saw the TSB about the #3 engine mount but it is TSB D001/96. It does not apply to your Millenia but only the 2.3L engine in the 1995 Milly S. One of the threaded holes for the front engine mount intersected an oil gallery and would allow engine to seap past the threads. That is the reason for the teflon tape.
Front camshaft and crankshaft oil seals are also very common to leak oil. Always replace them at every timing belt change on the 2.5L KL engine as well as the V6 MPV. Between the valve covers and front cam/crank seals, that would account for the oil on the timing belt. Were I you, I would get the timing covers off and give a good inspection of the timing belt alignment marks before thnking of pursuing a full engine R&R for overhaul. Could be just in need of timing belt, tensioner, and some valve cover gaskets.

 

I've been following this,and tend to much agree w/BH....I think the starter problem exist(s)(ed) from PO trying to get the car to start-continually cranking and cranking,thus "burning up" the starter and ruining the battery (I would check cable condition also),when in fact the reason for not starting is quite possibly a skipped timing belt-result of bad tensioner.As suggested,pull the timing covers and see if ALL the marks are in line.
Valve cover gaskets-ditto replace the grommets.Chances are many of them will break and crumble when you pull the valve covers as they get brittle from the prolonged heat they are exposed to.Theres a company on ebay selling the gasket set w/grommets for 16$/hell of a deal.Tensioner can be had for 60$ from rockauto.com-again,hell of a deal.

 

[sm=happy046.gif]I was finally able to take the day to work on the milly. I pulled the timing cover and the timing is off a whole 180°. I'm having trouble pulling the crankshaft pully though. Looks like someone may have tried before and busted part of the pully. Anybody know which kind and where I can buy, rent or borrowthe SSTneeded for this?
If the pully is too damaged to remove, then I may have to perform surgury and just replace the pully. Thanks again for the help, maybe next posting will be about how great it's running.

 

Found that Tensioner from rockauto.com for half less than what is wanted locally (with Shipping even!)
[:@]But I still can't get the crank pulley bolt to budge. I was searching the internet and found someone that suggested wedging a breaker bar against the ground and using the starter to tourqe the bolt free. Anybody ever try this? I did put a new starter on it and I have a charger with start assist that could provide an extra 80 amps to help but I'm concerned that I might do something like oh say, bust the fly wheel, burn up my new $200 starter. You know stuff like that. I'm so close to getting this thing running I don't want to screw it up any worse than it is.

 

I use an impact on that pulley bolt.The starter with a wrench jambed against the frame/ground trick sounds a little "hillbilly" to me,but I guess if you had absolutely no other way to remove it,it would work.

You know,when people hear impact,they immediately think of needing an air compressor.Many people aren't "blessed" with a garage or a workshop.There are several major power tool companies that make electric impacts.Heck,you can even get cordless impacts that will torque in the neiborhood of 350 lbs.I have a Dewalt 1/2" drive corded impact that really delivers when I don't have access to an air compressor; just plug it in and go.I work at a marina and there's no air out at the docks.
If I did'nt have a shop/garage,and did my own auto repairs,I would definately have one.

 

I have an air compressor with a 1/2 inch impact wrench. How do I keep the engine from rotating when I go after the bolt?

 

Engine is turning when youuse the impact on the pulley bolt??Have you tried it??

 

[sm=happybounce.gif]I finally got it started!!! The timing belt tensioner was well past gone. I got a new one from rockauto.com. It was great doing buisness with them. Cheapest prices I found so far. I also had toput a new distributor in, the previous one was fried. I purchased that through distributorking.com. They re-worked the design and claim that their design can withstand a few hundred more degrees than the factory model. Shipping was free, no core and about a hundred less than factory. Sounds like it has a stuck lifter right now. I'm going to work that problem. Thanks for all the help. By the way, the only way I was able to get the Crankshaft bolt off was to use a breakerbar the floor and the starter. Couldn't keep the engine from turning when I went after it any other way.