hello fellow millenia owners... recently my millenia s has been giving me some serious probelms...i loved this car since the day i saw it but its been nothing but a money pit n it has so many new parts that i dont want to part withit so i'm here looking for advice... so recently my check engine light started to blink so i had it scanned at advanced auto n it came up with codes 0173, 0304, 0725, 1170, 1402... obv when working on the car u start with the lowest code number first, but i went to the second with the cyclinder #4 misfire... apon removal of plugs i discoverede they were soaked in oil.. mind u not the car has 122xxx miles n the plugs looked original... so i had a mechanic put in new plugs (recommended oem replacements same as what came out) rotated the coil packs from front to back n i still have a cyclinder #4 misfire... i know it doesnt matter but the timing belt, tensioners, water pump, n had a remanufactored supercharger were replaced at about 90xxx miles, and recent the plugs i mentioned, a new used egr valve, new pvc valve, a hydrolic tensioner were replaced n im lost... anyone have any clue what i can test next to see why my engine is misfiring???? any help would be so greatlyappreciated... thanks again Brian...

 

i forgot to mention that after the plugs were replaced the codes were erasesd n when i scanned it again only 2 came back... 0304, 0725... now sometime when i start the car the check engine light wont blink for about 30 to 45 seconds after it was started..

 

ohm your fuel injectors. you may have a bad one. go to the other mazda forum, mazdaworld.org. you will have to register, then do a search. basically, you pull the connector off the front injector rail, and the leads are there to ohm. the bad fuel injectors seem to be popping up lately. i had this quite a while back, missfire on #5, which is the WORST one to get to. i too thought it was the plug/coil. since #5 is such a bitch to get at, i changed both coil and plugs. but it didnt go away. ohm'ing the injectors showed a dead one on 5. luckily, i found a complete set, in the rails, for 100 bucks on ebay, and i replaced the whole rail with the 3 used injectors. look for a poster bigb, he has a lot of spare parts. you will need some new crush rings, and seals. the seals are pricey, about 12 bucks each. with the miles on your car, if the injector does show up as bad, and you decide to change it, i would recommend installing a set of cleaned and flowed injectors. these are side feed, and not everyone will clean side feed injectors. this place does:
WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services
to properly clean an injector, it MUST be removed from the engine, back flushed, ultra-sound, and more. they CANNOT be proplerly cleaned on the motor, no matter what anyone says.

the oil in the wells is common. you need new valve cover gaskets. this is also not a fun job, to get at them, you have to remove a ton of stuff. if you are paying someone to do this, there will be a lot of labor.

i am NOT saying the injector is dead, but they are easy to check on the car. dont go blindly removing them before ohm'ing them to see. and there have been a few cases of bad injectors lately

 

thank you so much for ur input... i'm gonna call my mechanic this weekend n see if he can preform the test u are talking about... i noticed b4 the plugs were replaced i would have alot of smoke come out the exhaust, but since the plugs were changed n tried our best the get the oil out of the cylinder walls the smoke has almost stopped, only happens for a few seconds when i start the car for the first time... i got one last ? reguarding front suspension... i want to replace the front suspension parts cuz i got a nasty shake coming from my drivers side tire, besides tie rods inner n outter what other parts make up this suspesion so i can order those?? like i said i love this car n dont want to part with it, i want her to run n drive like a nascar when i need it too... thanks again kenn i appreciate it so much!!!

 

if your wheel is shaking, it is probably either out of balance, bent, or the tread has separated. tie rods wont make the wheel shake, but an out of balance/bent/separated wheel/tire will wear out the ball joints. the outer tie rod ends are ball joints, then there is another ball joint between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle. then there are 2 other ball joints, one on the end of the upper link and another on the end of the upper leading link. and they all go bad. then there is the mount on the rear end of the control arm, where it bolts to the body. i have changed all of those at one time or another. last but not least, there are bushings that need to be pressed out/in the control arm itself. oh, and sway bar end links, too. and if your car has over 60k, i can guarantee you the motor mounts are bad. they are liquid filled, dont get the buttco ebay ones, they are made in india, probably from old tires, and they dont work worth a ****.

 

OP, check your coils. Easy way to do so is to swap one from another cyl to the one that is throwing the code. If the code goes away from that cyl & goes to the other, you have found your culprit.

-Sheldon.

 

this supposedly has been done. coils were swapped front to rear, and new plugs installed, as per original post. same code. it takes about 10 min to ohm the injectors, but about 3 hours to swap the coils. bad injectors have been appearing on the 2.3 lately, not a lot, but enough so that when i get a misfire, i will first ohm the injectors since it is so easy