Need some advise , is it worth it to keep it ? does Millenia is a problems car ?
may be I am broke , everything about this car is expensive

 

the car is in limp home mode. 1113 is compressor intake air temp sensor. this sensor is on top of the compressor. remove the plastic miller cycle cover, and you will see where the compressor outlet is. should be 4 bolts, and the sensor is on that piece. dunno if the sensor would throw it into limp home, but, 1540(abv curcuit) definetly will. the abv is to a supercharger what a wastegate is to a turbocharger; it limits boost. if the pcm detects problems with abv, it throws the car into limp home(tcs off/tcs lites come on, no rev above 2500), to protect the engine. the most common problem is vacuum lines/tees. this is a labor intensive job, you have to remove the intake to get at the lines and tees. to be safe, you should replace the actual tees, there are at least 2 that are the most common, but you should be prepared to replace as many as 6(might be only 5, cant remember). there are also several 'Y's. these are all made of plastic, and over time, they get brittle and leak air. since the abv uses vacuum to open, if air leaks in, it wont work. a word of caution. NO ONE knows much about this car. most have not even SEEN this engine. if you have to pay someone to do the work, be prepared to pay a LOT, and be prepared to take it back several times, or take it to another shop. you will be paying them to learn how to fix this car. since this job is so labor intensive, cheapass wannabe shops will try to shortcut, and end up making it worse. the good part is that all of this is easily accessible from up top. the bad is that it will take several hours, 21 ft of vacuum line, and some very good vacuum tees. i used brass. any shop that does a lot of work with turbos will have the silicon line. a couple of good online sources is forced performance in mckinney, or road race engineering in cali. you might consider changing out the vacuum and vent solenoids, which live on a bracket right next to the egr valve. we have 2 99's, and i have already gone thru problems with both on vacuum(p1525), vent(p1526) solenoids. these will cost you about 60 bucks each online(i recommend tasca mazda in ri). the solenoids are also a very common problem. we live in krum, about 230 miles up the road from austin.

 

Keninn, do you by any chance have a picture of what the plastic miller cycle cover looks like?

 

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Mille...3/article.html

 

Thanks ....
change a few ft of vacuum lines, removed and install supercharge intake a couple times, then I find out it was the IAT sensor wiring loose that kept the engine rev 2500 rpm max. Now it drives, but still weak .... TCS light on, check engine on intermitten, knock sensor faulty (P0325 code )

 

the low revs is not only the temp sensor(i have yet to have this problem), if tcs is illum, that generally means there is another problem. knock sensor will pull boost and timing, so the power will be down. ever change a knock sensor? cause if you havent, it lives UNDERNEATH the compressor. yup, you gotta pull the comressor. yippee. oh, and i have a couple of friends who also live in round rock.

 

Thanks for all of the info guys! I'm so glad I found this forum! I just bought a 2000 Milley S last weekend for $2k with 105k and some light front end damage....(already repaired most of it)

But today the TCS issues started so I'm going to try the solutions you listed. Do anyone know where I can get some good diagrams for the most common issues? This way I can test and tackle them if needed while I'm already in the engine bay. LMK Thanks!