Rear brake job: e-brake warning light
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Joined: Nov 2021
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From: Wylie, Texas
Rear brake job: e-brake warning light
Hello everyone,
New member, but I've owned Mazdas for about 12 years. The question involves my wife's 2016 CX-9.
I recently did a second rear brake job on her car. I knew about the e-brake releasing sequence but this time ran into some issues (the piston didn't pull all the way back). I got the passenger side done and for some reason when I did the driver's side I engaged the process again, although this time the caliper was off the car, resulting in the piston basically popping out (long story- I have no idea why I did that).
I pulled the piston the rest of the way out, manually retracted the screw and bleed that side of the car. The brakes were fine, but now I'm getting a yellow "P" flashing light. I took the car to the dealer and they quoted me $2100 to replace everything...
Instead I took the motors out and made sure they worked fine. The pistons also move freely. Now when I activate the e-brake while the car is RUNNING, only one side will lock up, and the warning lights flash. However, if the car is OFF, both wheels will lock up, and there is no warning lights (even after turning on the car).
I've been reading something about resetting the ABS codes after bleeding the brakes. Could this be an issue? I'm not getting any codes with my cheap, standard OBDII reader, but I'm not opposed to getting a new "tool." I found this on Amazon and it mentions resetting the ABS light after bleeding: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...840_em_1p_0_lm
Thoughts?
thanks in advance!
Steve
New member, but I've owned Mazdas for about 12 years. The question involves my wife's 2016 CX-9.
I recently did a second rear brake job on her car. I knew about the e-brake releasing sequence but this time ran into some issues (the piston didn't pull all the way back). I got the passenger side done and for some reason when I did the driver's side I engaged the process again, although this time the caliper was off the car, resulting in the piston basically popping out (long story- I have no idea why I did that).
I pulled the piston the rest of the way out, manually retracted the screw and bleed that side of the car. The brakes were fine, but now I'm getting a yellow "P" flashing light. I took the car to the dealer and they quoted me $2100 to replace everything...
Instead I took the motors out and made sure they worked fine. The pistons also move freely. Now when I activate the e-brake while the car is RUNNING, only one side will lock up, and the warning lights flash. However, if the car is OFF, both wheels will lock up, and there is no warning lights (even after turning on the car).
I've been reading something about resetting the ABS codes after bleeding the brakes. Could this be an issue? I'm not getting any codes with my cheap, standard OBDII reader, but I'm not opposed to getting a new "tool." I found this on Amazon and it mentions resetting the ABS light after bleeding: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...840_em_1p_0_lm
Thoughts?
thanks in advance!
Steve
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: london
About 10 minutes after I got in the car driving around 50 km/h, my brake warning light (exclamation in a circle with parentheses) started flashing. Pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car and turned it back on. Light still flashing and the message on the screen says “electronic parking brake - check user manual” which of course isn’t helpful, the manual just says the electronic parking brake system may be malfunctioning, immediately stop your vehicle in a safe location, and to call your Subaru dealer, which is closed until Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin Monday morning.
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