First off let me say that by long crank time I'm talking 2.5-3.0 seconds so I'm not saying the car is hard to start.
When the car sits over night in the garage the first start takes longer than normal. After it's been driven it starts by just touching the button and even if it sits 2-3 hours it still starts right up.
I have a feeling the pressure is bleeding off the fuel rail after sitting overnight OR if it has one the fuel pump primer relay it's not quickly pressurizing the rail.
My previous car was a newer Ford Edge and as soon as you opened the driver door you could hear the fuel pump kick on for a few seconds, not sure if the Mazda has a similar feature.
Because this problem takes overnight to develop I'm not looking forward to taking it to the dealer unless I have something convincing to say that will get them to look into it.
Suggestions are appreciated.

 

You are not giving the best and needed information to help you with your question.
When members ask for help, PLEASE PROVIDE the same information you would fill out on a service order!!!!!

Miles
Last service date and what was it?
When the compliant started to happen (miles and/or time period)?

The other thing is STOP... comparing a Skyactiv Mazda engine to any other vehicle platform! There are so many unique and Mazda only that it would be like comparing a banana
to a rock!

Guessing anything having to do with the engine operation and not having a engine check light and or checking the OBDII diagnostic connector and the ECU information on possible pending DTC or other fault like low fuel pressure would have been the first start as a DIY and not to start guessing?

I highly recommend NOT to use blue tooth diagnostic devises as I have now shown in the last several months that they are unreliable and often report anomalous conditions no matter what brand they are! Use a good quality Diagnostic scanner connected directly to the OBDII/CANbus diagnostic connector.


The season has changed, and many states are now on summer fuel formulas mandated by the federal government. This can and often does have an effect on many engines. Not always positive in nature.

 

The last service was April 9, 2024 and consisted of an oil/filter change and tire rotation at 15,500 miles. Dealer preformed a safety inspection and checked for recalls, none were found.
The longer cold crank has existed since mid 2023 when the car was about 6 months old. The problem has not changed, winter/summer blend does not make a difference.

Mazda marketing compares Mazda to other vehicles all the time, as the owner of this particular Mazda I am not going to excuse it's idiosyncrasies by saying 'well it is a Mazda'.
It is not generating an error code which I'm sure you understand would greatly help even the most challenged mechanic.
I am posting here in hopes of finding a truly skilled Mazda technician with brand knowledge that could help me present this issue to a service writer.

While I appreciate your input, it's really not helpful.

 

Well good luck then.

There are 2 active and certified Automotive Technicians on this forum that could help you and you just lost me! The other is my friend
I don't have time for members asking for help and then want to categorize by way of insults my comments based on not only verifiable facts but my experience level which I know you have seen on this forum, to get clarity as well advertised information on the internet.


ASE


I looked at your response history here maybe I should get in the habit of doing that prior me wasting my time trying to help some members LOL

 

I post questions on owner sites as a last resort when I have concern about my vehicle. I posted one a few weeks ago about my liftgate that seems to have a memory problem, I received some good advice and at my next dealer visit I know how to present that problem to the service advisor.

On this post I outlined my concern on what seems like loss of fuel rail pressure after sitting overnight. If the vehicle presented a DTC I would clearly have what I need to tell the dealer and this post would not have been necessary.

I was, and still am, hoping for a meaningful reply from someone who has an answer, perhaps a service bulletin, maybe they know of a CX-9 with a similar problem that was fixed, maybe they know of a troublesome fuel pump relay or pressure regulator, something that would be helpful.

Since I have 'lost you' I guess that means I will not be able to enjoy your; ALL CAPS, !!!!!, little faces, COLORED BOLD TEXT, and generally demeaning comments. I'm chalking that up as a WIN.

 

If you turn on electrical only and wait till all gauges calibrate, then will start quickly?

 

My information is for others that may stumble onto this thread.
Good idea but the Mazda should start in about 1/2 to a second unless in extreme temperature condition. And that is also if the state of overall health of the engine is good. The type of fuel also effects engine start more than most realize because the average driver does not get a sense of 2-3 seconds in a cold start engine as being abnormal.

The best thing for DIY with a problem as outlined in the first thread is to go to Mazda or a ASE qualified shop. The first thing they will do is by way of using a professional grade Diagnostic scanner connected to the ODII diagnostic connector is to not only check for pending DTC's (*engine check light does not always initiate) the status of the I/M monitors but also do a quick check of the injector data and fuel pressure information corresponding to the start up delay. This is what you do before assuming it is a fuel pump or fuel supply issue.


* Engine check light misconception. ECU from about or at least from 2014 to present will not always generate a engine check light if the issue is a on and off going problem. This means that if the issue happens sporadically the ECU may simple "pend" in a permeant file the DTC until it is resolved. An example is a misfire code unrelated. P0300 . The engine check light may or may not be generated and often after a engine cycle will clear because the problem was not permeant. Or unresolved. In the case of a longer than normal start time a engine check light will likely not be generated but the anomalous and ongoing cold stal and long start period only occur during a end of an engine cycle. This makes for a more comprehensive ECU data accusation before assuming of testing hard parts and system. Basically, not a casual DIY or find it on the internet/youtube solution.

Anyone have this concern should leave their vehicle at a shop overnight so the shop can first duplicate the condition and then procedure from that point with their experience level of problem-solving methods.
Youi can expect a minimum diagnostic charge based on 1-1.5 hours labor rate. Some better-quality shops will reduce the diagnostic charge if they are allowed to service and correct the problem. But you need to read your work order and ask!

I might add that suggestions to a service Technician that is trained and experienced with DIY information what you think is the problem may not result in any discount or allowance. We honestly don't like customer telling us how to service their vehicle. But remember if you want us to go down that trail you will be charged for it even if it was a total waste of time! If customers know so much maybe they should service their own vehicles?
I smile and always helpful to my customers and they always seem to return for future service needs!

The NTSB offers information all about your vehicle including the most current TSB, you just need to personally go to their website and enter your VIN.

 

DS***
Your recommendation does not make any difference in my CX-9. Push start once it goes to 'ACC', a second push goes to 'RUN' and gauges move, foot on brake and 3 push of start still has longer crank than expected.

I inadvertently read another post, not meant for me, but I found it quite helpful.

In the meantime, if anyone driving a 2022-23 CX-9 would listen for the fuel pump running when they; a. open the door, or b. press the brake before starting, please let me know with some details I'd appreciate it.

 

All fuel injected systems dating back to at least the OBDII and CAN bus ECU operating systems (approx.. 1995 to preset) you would hear the fuel pump in the ACC position of the start. Depending on the platform and how well the interior is sound proof some vehicles you can hear it better than others. But it is always there. Needing to prime the system at every engine complete cycle or for that matter at ever start is likely mechanical problem with a part and should be looked at before a component in the F/I system fails. There are specific signs that point to mechanical vs electrical, and an experienced service technician would know what to look for.

 

Very helpful.
I think I now have enough information for the service advisor so even if he can't get a code I can at least make the case that he compare it to a similar vehicle.
Thank you