In a new year's thread resurrection, My new-2-me 2010 FWD has the 2nd most torque steer of anything I've ever driven, 2nd only to a GLH Omni (if anyone's old enough). What a shock as well as it spinning a wheel when dropping the hammer at 20 mph into 1st...hang on!

 

I don't see the point in building a FWD large SUV with a open diff. Waste of time & waste of tyre tread.

 

I don’t know if I have ever seen a vehicle calculate the MPG correctly using the on screen display. I have a 2012 Mazda CX-9 and my display doesn’t not calculate correctly. My wife has a 2013 Buick Verano and her MPG does not calculate correctly either. Use the above formula to figure out the gas mileage that will be your best bet and if it matches your display in your vehicle then that’s great but I am willing to bet your manual calculation will not match what the display reads out on your vehicle. If you happen to do this and figure it out manually and compare it to what your vehicle says, please reply and let me know what you come up with! Thanks and good luck!

 

The OBC on virtually every car I've had since the late 1990s has been no more than 0.7 mpg off; I religiously calculate fuel economy based upon the good old fashioned miles divided by gallons method and keep it all on a spreadsheet along with the OBC report. Most of our cars have been within 0.3 mpg either way of the calculated number. The thing is, given how inconsistently fuel pumps "clock-off", any given tank of fuel may differ from the OBC by as much as two or three mpg, but over time the numbers smooth out. Long story short, once you figure out the deviation between actual and reported, using the OBC number times the deviation for any given tank is a far more accurate method of calculating the fuel economy for any given tank.