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I understood what you asked but thought you would simply go and follow it back to the other end. That large a cable (4,6 or 8 gauge ) will generally connect to the block, the frame or a starter? Many vehcls come factory with 2 grounding cables.
Just because you are trying 1-3 or 100 batteries if they are not tested first then 1-3 or 100 could all be possibly bad. That is why I keep recommend suggesting and posting about load testing them.. the term a battery will not hold a charge is somewhat inaccurate. The voltage on a bad battery can still in most all cases be charged to 12 plus voltage. But if the battery amps are not there to support the voltage then you have a bad battery. BTW many batteries are not completely NEW unless the supplier specifically say 100% . Most batteries these day even from the top brand are made from recycled parts winch include the core. I also mention shelf dates, retail sale date vs actual manufactured date . Just because you purchased a battery today may not mean that it has only been around for no more then 6 mos from the actual manufactured date. And many battery supplier will service their account by battery rotation. This mean that they will find batteries that are 6 mos or older by the generic date could and swap them for a newer date. perfectly ok practice that has been done for decades. They will take the batteries and have them tested. If they are ok then will receive a new date code sticker and back to a retail outlet.
A battery drawing down to the no start level in 24 can easily be traced. That is a big draw. If you keep attempting to start the engine with jumping you are going to be replacing a starter soon. I would at least have a 1amp charger or better an automatic battery charger on your car so the battery will not drain down until you resolve your problem?
I just went out to my 2018 Mazda 3 and fired up the stereo for about 10 minutes. With my sound system it took the voltage down to the point that load testing the battery indicated to charge and re-test. So it is now on the charger for about an hour to restore static voltage to where I can retest the batteries condition. Oh I have 2 ground cables one to body and the other to the wire distribution power block.
I will post the retest pictures later.
This picture is a constant voltage readout in my console compartment.
You can see in the next picture that I have slightly low voltage and the load test indicates the necessary 12 and re-test for battery health.
Oh this OPTIMA battery uses 100% new materials.
The volt gauge is on " display hold" for reference of static voltage prior me starting the test and before I played my stereo.
Now receiving low amp charge and indication charging voltage.
Update...car has been at https://www.keystoneautoelectrical.com/ since 1st thing Wed (25th) morning. Still working to find root cause. Tech is confident the issue is caused by something in the cabin. He can duplicate the draw - no battery connected -> battery connected -> no draw happening -> ignition switched ON -> ignition switched OFF -> draw happening. Not a simple problem. We'll see...
OK...here's the deal...Jerry at https://www.keystoneautoelectrical.com/ isolated and repaired the problem. The relay for the Rear Defroster was bad. Hard to believe, but that was the problem.
I have a 2017 CX-9 GT, parked it for a week in the summer while I was on vacation in BC, and battery drained and had to buy a replacement at Mazda in Calgary $300+ including diagnosis. Then my local Mazda told me to get a trickle-charger as it's a know problem in my model. And not covered by extended warranty. When I tell people with other brands they think I'm crazy. Never had this with my previous vehicle. Not very happy.
03-21-2020, 07:50 PM
