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150 amp fuse on the battery cable for a mazda cx7

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Old Jan 8, 2024 | 12:04 PM
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Yve
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Default 150 amp fuse on the battery cable for a mazda cx7

Here is the clip from the Mazda dealership. They are hoping to find a work-around rather than a new wire harness that would cost 3k (CDN)

Ideas?

Edit: We took it to the dealer because the alarm has been going off randomly (only when auto-locked, not when manually locked), but it wouldn't start the day we took it to the dealership (even tried a new battery). The other issue is when driving, it feels like it's trying to move ahead of itself, like a bit of a fuel surge (it's not a jerking movement, and the RPMs don't change). A mechanic friend thought it sounded like an issue with the AWD, the dealership replicated it and suspects spark plugs or air fuel ratio sensor.



 

Last edited by Yve; Jan 8, 2024 at 03:17 PM. Reason: original reason it went to the dealer.
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Old Jan 8, 2024 | 12:56 PM
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Welcome to the forum

Ok well that is not a hard project at all? Any Audiophile that has installed a upgrade level stereo system can make a 100-200- amp battery cable with fuse?
I run 2 100amp cables and fuse directly to the battery positive terminal.

If the dealership cant figure it out any stereo shop or RV service shop can!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2024 | 03:15 PM
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A friend of mine mentioned that, too, they used to travel in an RV, and he does a lot of computer and vehicle repairs on electronics and figures he can get it to work with no problem.

 
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Old Sep 22, 2024 | 07:02 PM
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Default 150 Amp fuse mazda cx-7

Originally Posted by Yve
Here is the clip from the Mazda dealership. They are hoping to find a work-around rather than a new wire harness that would cost 3k (CDN)

Ideas?

Edit: We took it to the dealer because the alarm has been going off randomly (only when auto-locked, not when manually locked), but it wouldn't start the day we took it to the dealership (even tried a new battery). The other issue is when driving, it feels like it's trying to move ahead of itself, like a bit of a fuel surge (it's not a jerking movement, and the RPMs don't change). A mechanic friend thought it sounded like an issue with the AWD, the dealership replicated it and suspects spark plugs or air fuel ratio sensor.



I just had mine break off of the terminal, flush at the fuse case. I'm going to attempt to get a standard 150 Amp fuse with the 3/8 eyelets on both sides


. Then crimp or solder an eyelet end on to the cable and bolt one side to the cable and the other side of the fuse to the stud on the positive battery terminal.
 

Last edited by Richard Parrish; Sep 22, 2024 at 07:04 PM.
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