Cx-60 - operation of the engine
I had one of those water heaters, but it was gas powered. Loved the endless hot water showers.
The nice thing is it freed up space elimination the traditional water heater for a washer and drier. I installed it for the owner of the duplex I was renting for a month's free rent. LOL
As for the old semi-Myth about cold starts and gas engines ... that has been hashed out for years. The bottom line unless the engine sits for very extended periods of time there is always a thin film oof oil on all the internal parts like cylinder walls piston ring bearing etc. So cold starts in the sense of longevity while in a controlled environment testing engine room it might have merit and empirical facts ITRW (in the real world) having an engine that the longevity is based on cold starts and many engines from owners taking care of them through preventative maintenance and frequent or at or below 7k miles oil and filter service getting over 200k to some 300 thousand or even higher miles is a rare owner. On my 1998 Ford explorer I currently have 264k miles on the completely original engine with the exception of 2 water pumps, timing chain and gears. That's also on the famous exploder transmission that, but I did upgrade several things internally to make it semi bullet prof. LOL
I should note for credibility that I owned and operated a performance engine machine shop that was complete with 3 types of Dynos and a engine assembly clean room. Most of my clients were professional Racers or guys with lots of $$$ that wanted a real performance engine in their daily driver or Street Hot Rod.
On all my engines I know that if I get oil pressure in 1-3 second just cranking the motor and when it fire going to max oil psi the engine is being lubricated. I also live by NOT driving or using the transmission for at least 2-3 minutes. And I never exceed 1800 RPM until my monitor indicates being in closed loop ECU operations or basically the blue coolant light goes out or I have reached 130F coolant temperature. Does this all mean my engine will be trouble and wear free... NOPE.
The nice thing is it freed up space elimination the traditional water heater for a washer and drier. I installed it for the owner of the duplex I was renting for a month's free rent. LOL
As for the old semi-Myth about cold starts and gas engines ... that has been hashed out for years. The bottom line unless the engine sits for very extended periods of time there is always a thin film oof oil on all the internal parts like cylinder walls piston ring bearing etc. So cold starts in the sense of longevity while in a controlled environment testing engine room it might have merit and empirical facts ITRW (in the real world) having an engine that the longevity is based on cold starts and many engines from owners taking care of them through preventative maintenance and frequent or at or below 7k miles oil and filter service getting over 200k to some 300 thousand or even higher miles is a rare owner. On my 1998 Ford explorer I currently have 264k miles on the completely original engine with the exception of 2 water pumps, timing chain and gears. That's also on the famous exploder transmission that, but I did upgrade several things internally to make it semi bullet prof. LOL
I should note for credibility that I owned and operated a performance engine machine shop that was complete with 3 types of Dynos and a engine assembly clean room. Most of my clients were professional Racers or guys with lots of $$$ that wanted a real performance engine in their daily driver or Street Hot Rod.
On all my engines I know that if I get oil pressure in 1-3 second just cranking the motor and when it fire going to max oil psi the engine is being lubricated. I also live by NOT driving or using the transmission for at least 2-3 minutes. And I never exceed 1800 RPM until my monitor indicates being in closed loop ECU operations or basically the blue coolant light goes out or I have reached 130F coolant temperature. Does this all mean my engine will be trouble and wear free... NOPE.
That totally makes sense, thanks for sharing. By the way, I am also on that side - when I start the engine, I am waiting for a few minutes until the rpm slows down and until I see slight movement on the coolant temp gauge. Then, until I get out of the blue zone, I am driving below 2k rpm. Things have evolved since I decided that this is the best for the engine - many years ago, but I am still doing it.
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