windshield defrost
 

Last summer I bought a 2020 CX-5. Two main reasons were Mazda's reputation as being a "driver's car", and a real transmission rather than a CVT (limited towing capacity). The former is absolutely TRUE. It drives and handles great, and is very comfortable even for a 3-4 hour trip.
I have owned many different cars, SUV's, and trucks since 1969. I live in Northern Illinois, so it is now winter. This CX-5 has, by far, the Worst windshield defrost system than any other vehicle I have ever owned ! ! ! The major part of the problem is air flow vents, or rather the lack of vents. The center-front of the dash has about 12" of vents aimed to the center and about 60degrees to each side. That's it, NO OTHER VENTS to send warm air to the ends of the windshield near the A-pillars. When it is snowing, the left side wiper pushes snow up to near the left A-pillar, but with no warming of the end of the windshield, the returning wiper brings a smear of ice/snow with it to cover the glass and obstruct the view. The only thing to do is apply a quick shot of washer fluid, which is a short-term remedy.
Have Mazda executives ever actually driven the vehicles they sell in winter conditions ?

Maybe I should have kept my 2010 Ford Escape, which at least I could see out of in winter.

Can you check and make sure that you are using defrost only and that your AC light comes on? If not, then the air inside the passenger compartment is filled with moisture that the AC removes to help the HVAC which includes the defrost work properly.

Iit does gets old on many forums not just this one or Mazda related when members suggest that they should have kept or purchased another auto manufacture mostly because before making their choice of a new(or used) choice should have considered and tried out all the features and functions before deciding to buy. It also really helps to have a cup of coffee and spend an hour or so and go read in your spoken language front to back the owner's manual and how everything works? :rolleyes:

Of course they haven’t, it never snows in Japan, and they have no customers in Canada, the snow belt or northern Europe. How would they possibly know anything about cold winter weather?

Seriously, your complaint is very rare on CX forums in spite of a great many members living in Canada and the northern US - as well as in Europe. I’m of no help living in southern Arizona but if it was a common problem we’d hear about it - a lot. Perhaps there is a partially blocked vent or a leaking air channel in your CX. A trip to the dealer is probably called for.

Nice posting :D ^^

I wonder how many Mazda owners realize that the engine coolant light when you first start the engine is on until the coolant reaches 129.9F? That would also be the same temperature at that point that when the HVAC system has been warmed up will have being run through the defrost vents and heater vents? Naturally as the coolant continues to get hotter so does the air temperature out the vents unless it is adjusted.

As for where you live or I live for operating conditions well for me I see below zero temperatures in my travels in the western states and here is one for you that sort of goes with your responses. Check out this MAZDA dealership's location :)

New & Used Mazda Vehicles in Anchorage | Continental Mazda (continental-mazda.com)


Auto manufacture executives are as far as I am aware are not Automotive design Engineers either?

And it des snow in both Japan and also Mexico although rare in Mexico.

Japan

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MEXICO

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It would be a simple fix for Mazda to sort this annoying issue.:)

I to have a 2020 and was "confused" at first as to why the AC would come on when I was using the defrost.
I know the reason why, but up until now had never owned a vehicle with enough "smarts" to run the AC to reduce humidity if the defrost or heat were on.
The first few times I would shut the AC off until I realized Mazda actually had engineers who knew about HVAC.
My defrost works like a charm and it gets fairly cold around here in the winter.

I agree, my first impression when I test drove my cx5 was that the front windshield vent is smaller than usual and thought this would be a problem during winter. But I'm on 2 winters now and never had any problems defrosting the windshield. Also, my 2021 GT Turbo has a windshield de-icer grid which works when depressing the rear defrost button. The button activates the heated side mirrors, the rear window defrost and the windshield de-icer grid. I don't know if all model trims have this feature however. There are YouTube videos explaining this feature, here is one:

Interesting. I suspect your past cars did this as well, but you may not have had anything on the HVAC display indicating the A/C was operating when in defrost mode. Even my old school 2020 Nissan Frontier (first released in 2005) activates the A/C when defrost is selected.

As for the OP, I have seen similar posts a couple of times over the years (here is one example from '21: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...g-issue-46362/) but it certainly isn't a common complaint. Personally, my defrost works well, but I am in a mild region of the country.

This has been going on with HVAC system earlier then the 90's. One member is correct that not all platforms or models in those platforms display AC on. However it does explain about the HVAC operation in detail in most owners manuals.

A little trick I know that you know it, by turning off the AC if the defrost has cleared your glass will help support improved MPG. If you had a gauge that showed in real time MPG you would see that the use of the AC which actuates the clutch/compressor on the AC lowers your MPG. This is not officially written in any owners or factory service manual, but I like to call it FIM= Frequent Instrument Monitoring. :D Oh one more thing a another little known or published tid nit of information... the instant MPG is adjusted in the ECU calibration at a very slow rate and also limited to the maximum displayed MPG. This is because it was determined that the average driver cannot comprehend to many fast moving and large number values. ;)

I'm sure you're correct I don't pay a whole lot of attention to dash "lights" except warning ones.
My last "new" vehicles before the CX-5 were a 2004 Honda Accord Coupe and 2011 Honda CR-V.
Except in my younger daze, I've never been much of a car person with exception of a few sportscars.
I've always been a motorcycle guy and only used enclosed vehicles when absolutely necessary.
I never did find anything that would effectively defrost a full-face helmet visor:D
Alas, I had to give up riding about two years back, hence the CX-5 for the wife and the handling and paddle shifters for me.
Being retired I just wouldn't allow myself to lay out the money for the Jaguar F-Pace S or the Porsche Macan S.
Actually, the divorce that would've gone with a purchase of either would've severely impacted my retirement savings;)

Well you never did any diving, (SCUBA) or you would know the secret. "SPIT" on your visor. No more fog. ROLMAO!!


I have owned some high dollar Exotic's I wont say which ones but I concluded that my skill were always able to build a better vehicles from less expensive platforms. Maybe that why I have the emblem I use on my Mazda. ;)
However before the "turd head squad" negativily quotes me my Mazda is no match for even my PT Cruiser or either of my MINI's. :D

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In my own 2016.5 CX-5 GT, it can take a little while to properly defrost but, if I'm capable of skipping the impatience and riding it out, it'll generally effectively defrost in less than 10mins if in the 20s, give or take. This past week we had cold weather (and snow/ice) with temps below zero (F). Defrosting took longer. But properly scraping the windshield and rear window first, turning the defrost to "high," and waiting ~10mins, generally made it good-to-go. I've no idea if my 2016 has vents better, smaller, etc, than other vintages, but IMO it has done reasonably well ... even with the nasty weather of last week.

I should have mentioned that so many of us forget that if water and moisture from cloths and entering and exiting any vehicle will make any HVAC system slower to clear windows and more likely needing more frequent use of the defrosters. For those who can the simple act of cracking the windows at night will help with the drying and evaporation of accumulated moisture in the cabin/passenger area. Those with trunks let's not forget that if you open the trunk to place bags and other items and it is raining or snowing unless you open the trunk periodically and help it dry out that trunk is a very well-sealed compartment and will also decrease the effectiveness of your HHAC defrost setting.

Ha...I did a lot of snorkel diving in the cold lakes up here using the "spit" method.
My cousin and her navy boyfriend were big into scuba in the early "Sea Hunt" years, back when it was still legal to get lobsters when diving.
They turned me on to some really nice US Divers gear (facemask, snorkel, fins) and the spit method.
I didn't have enough money for the full scuba gear and my mother threatened my cousin about teaching me.
She did take me along as a spotter in the boat on several occasions.

The moisture build up here comes from the snow melting on boots shoes and pooling in the all-weather floor mats.
Amazing how very little moisture will end up as windshield frost especially when the sun is out and then the temp drops 20 degrees after sunset.

I'd like to change that badge on my CX-5 I have a nice carbon fiber logo but I'm not willing to mess with the electronics in it.

I am PADI and nitrox rated. Invested several thousand dollars in tank,suits etc. Most of my dives were in Monterey Bay. This hobby is time consuming and has gotten to expensive.
But at least anywhere I may travel in the world my card gets me what ever I want in equipment and front line at dive area's. I know big deal lol!
I did once applied at Monterey Bay Aquarium to be a tank cleaner. Thought it would be fun to swim with world exotic marine life and not have to go to the country of their origin to do it. LOL

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Sweet...Aquarium cleaner would've been a very interesting job.
Being in Maine I spend most of my younger daze sports $$$$$$$ on downhill ski equipment and season passes.
Had to give skiing up as well...sigh...
Getting old is hell, but then again the alternative ain't so great either :rolleyes:

That would have been a fun job. I have NAUI and NASDS SCUBA certifications and have dived in Hawaii, the Bahamas, several rivers and lakes in the US and a bunch of old quarries. It's probably been 30 years though since I last went diving with SCUBA, though I have just used mask and snorkel a few times after that. I got rid of my gear several years ago. It was all outdated and just taking up room in the basement.

maybe it was the wet suit shrunk.... ;) :p

Back on the subject of the thread:
As already mentioned, full 'defrost' as opposed to the 'defrost/floor heat'. I have remote start up here in Wisconsin so I know
where you are coming from. With the remote, there's heat after a couple of minutes, so when I get in the CX, the windshield is
started, if not defrosted. I offer these other 'suggestions' that work for me.
Turn the fan down off the highest speed. Slightly slower fan speed means that the air has a better chance of picking up what heat
is in the heater core.
Another option: Just before shutting off the engine, turn the 'defrost only' on the controls. Also consider hitting 're-circulate'.

These should help some for your situation.

My 2¢

Maybe (not really lol) good for some vehicles pre 1990 but not the current HVAC system. The reason the AC is actuated and goes to full blower speed is to pull as much air through the system to DRY it as well heat it.
The reason you DONT re-circulate the air is because the cabin has moisture which is also why defrost automatically switches to outside air.
Learn about things before assuming how they work. :rolleyes:

Unfortunately, my wetsuit didn't shrink - I expanded. But I kept the wetsuits as sometimes we liked them when just snorkeling in some of those rivers. My wife's wetsuit still fits her though.

Well oh great guru, I have done these tactics and they work. The idea is to get as much HEAT to the windshield as possible. Once
the frost/ice is melted, you can worry about the moisture in the cabin. Being aware of the weather forecast and planning ahead is the key.
The AC will still DRY the air passing through at the slightly lower speed will it not?
​​​​​​​I have learned a few things in the 60+ years I've been working on cars. Don't assume you are always right.

ya hence the wink in my response. hahahahahaha! :p

Thank you for the complement. :rolleyes:
As I said your not accurate and the information to recommend other to follow is not very good. You can claim all you want that it works for you but in the real world that method is not the best way to do things.
As for me assuming I am always right... well please ... I did say how a HVAC system works I nowhere said "it works for me" or give less then verifiable and factual information.
60 years you have been working on cars as you keep bringing up in threads has not always and more often not the best or even the correct way to do things? You are never to old to go back to school! :cool:


I recommend that members read about exactly how a HVAC system work on your specific vehicle. If it be new Mazda this below is the basic information (Non-TECHNICAL) how it works.


In a very shorten version....Your car’s primary Mazda defroster uses the HVAC system to defrost your front and side glass. When properly set or when it is automatically activated will pull none circulated air (direct fresh air) into your passenger area which runs that fresh air through the now activate AC which will pull the moisture from the air as it passes over the cooling coils. and the heater core will now have dry hot air to blow over the glass.

Well here's a solution. Next time you are up in Canada during the winter, try it once or twice. My CX sits outside unfortunately so clearing
frost and ice off the windshield is job one.

My 2¢

ROLMAO defending your DIY to the end.... :rolleyes:


And you often assume that where I live "predominatly" I am not exposed to other operating environmental ambient temperature extremes or help people all over the world with Q&A about their vehicles almost dailey.... :cool:

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I seriously doubt you spend much, if any, time in Alaska or Canada in the dead of winter. An assumption I'm guilty of.
Head north, Alaska isn't far for a California boy. And it's winter to boot, you can experiment all day.

​​​​​​​My 2¢

again assuming things .:rolleyes:

I did Ice Drag Racing with my Track built originally to race NHRA S/G before building a Camaro instead 482BB 1967 Nova on and off a couple years in Alaska . :cool:
Oh and trailed it there in my 1979 Monte Carlo. ;)

As I recall we placed the Hotels towels on the front and rear window to keep them clear of frost and/or snow from overnight parking ROLMAO

Natural state of being ^^^^^^^^^^
Do you even read and look at pictures in my response of just go off on your rant? :rolleyes:

Yes I did read the post and look at your pictures. SO? The photos prove nothing as the engine is rather obviously
up to temperature. The OP and my situation is not that. The engine is just starting to produce some heat, a bit less
than 100°. In the case of your photos, had you turned the fan down one notch, the heat would likely have been a bit
higher.
We are, of course, discussing Mazda CX-5s, with a computer run HVAC system.
I have, as is common up here in the upper mid-west, used a 'snow cover' for the windshield. It helps a lot.
Works best when I check the forecast.

​​​​​​​My 2¢

Boy you missed a lot of information from those pictures, but I figured as much! ;)
Did you ever stop to consider I carefully choose those pictures? :cool:
How long you want to go with this? You keep posting nonsense and I keep trying to "SCHOOL" you.. hahahahaha!
Ops forgot to mention that my Mazda has *dual zone automatic climate control. All newer systems even your Mazda rely on *sensors throughout the inside as well the outside to monitor and control the climate settings.

As for snow covers...
Most all the ones I've tried end up frozen to my windshield, cardboard is way cheaper and works about the same.
Now that I no longer have motorcycles or boats, I just park in my garage.
But I'd honestly rather have the windshield ice and still be able to ride motorcycles and use a boat:D

[QUOTE[color=#000000]I keep trying to "SCHOOL" you..][/QUOTE]
Now that's funny right there!
What did I miss? the gauge clearly shows the engine temp at 181+°F.
Not exactly at the 205° thermostat holds it but close enough. the outside temp, according to YOUR
gauge is ~80º F. Hardly a cold January day in the Great Lakes area much less Alaska.
HVAC is at 90º, which many might not set it at. The computer puts out max heat (available) if the
interior temp is less than what the HVAC is set at.
So when are you leaving for Alaska?

My 2¢

Now that's funny right there!
What did I miss?

My 2¢[/QUOTE]
Well like I said there was a lot of information in those carefully chosen pictures I posted. And for all your claims about knowing things in 60 years you missed some interesting things. And didn't even ask the right questions of observation. LOL BTW the Mazda thermostat is a rated 195F and the system normal operation for coolant is 190F-212F. a lot?

I think there really for the thread topic not much to add technically speaking and only members that want to add there experiences?


I retired Professionally drag racing in NHRA officially in 1995.

The trick back in the day was to apply a good coat of RAIN-X on the glass before the towel.
You are right about ambient temperature extremes I don't like to cold or to hot anymore. :o

Maybe so, but my temp gauge runs consistently at 205ºF, even in the dead of winter. So that is what I posted.

​​​​​​​My 2¢

I am going to regret asking but.... based on what? Did you use an independent temperature measuring devise of connect to the Diagnostic connector and actually view the coolant temperature if yes to either case then NO you coolant does not run a consistent 205F. As you drive and perimeter's change so does the coolant temperatures. the coolant temperature are influenced be the transmission temperature so it is next to impossible when both engine and transmission varying operation to have a "CONSTANE" set temperature.

Example is in one of the pictures I posted. ;)

My CX5 does not have a temperature gauge, just idiot lights, but my MX5 temp gauge has such a large dead area that by the time it indicates getting too hot, the engine is probably toast. That's one of the reasons that I use an Ultragauge II.

Plus plus on ULTRA GAUGE!!!!!!:D