Read in some threads about how Sport Mode might work. So i contacted Mazda and they gave me the following info. Mine is a 2021 GTR, so YMMV."Thank you for contacting Mazda Customer Experience Center regarding the Sport mode on your vehicle.

I have been advised that the shift points move up to around 3k-4k RPM's depending on how much accelerator is applied. Sport mode does not allow for use of 6th gear. PCM prevents redlining and will automatically let off the gas or shift to higher gear if RPM's redline." I can confirm that in Sport Mode aggressive throttle moves the shift point up to above 5k.

They also sent me the attached.for further explanation on how the transmission shifts. I think some of this is in the owners manual? But it's nicely pdf'd here.

 

Thanks. A lot goes on when you put your foot on that pedal.

 

The chart is MAZDA's *claimed DYNO results not a transmission shift pint for sport or normal mode.

The sport mode is entertaining at best but most that know how to "sport" or drive spiritedly will turn off the stability and all proximity settings and manually shift the transmission.
And some will even re-mount the ECU upside down... (unless you know what I am talking about and plan to track race your MAZDA then disregard my mention of the ECU) LOL
As people get use to how their new MAZDA performs less will use the sport mode and more as I described.
I will note that in some situation there is some advantage to using sport mode for sustained normal and at times improved MPG, i.e. driving in San Francisco.


*power ratings from MAZDA are not certified and therefore they can post any figures for power their engines produce.

 

Why will Sport Mode improve MPG?

 

Only under some circumstances. And a lot has to do with learning to improve driving for increased MPG using the monitors provided to you. Set your dash monitor to "CURRENT MPG" then on your info screen display for monitoring the FUEL ECONOMY.
Then go find a simple drive that does not exceed 45 mph and that has some small hills and drive normally in regular auto shift setting. Then go the same drive in sport mode. Then again in manual shift mode.

What you should find is the sport mode should give a slightly higher MPG over the other 2 shift choices. Automatic tends to shift early resulting in changes in load characteristics that the ECU will adjust that tends to lower MPG and manually shifting really needs a learning skill to know how to shift for different driving results.
The sport mode setting will adjust the engine speed for best torque and you will need less throttle position to maintain any given speed (MPH) Trying to learn to do this in manual setting takes some practice and auto mode the ECU is in control and generally not as efficient to adjust the load vs best MPG.

And also, here is the thing which many don't know not even MAZDA trained techies, the ECU has a delay programed and total number limit in reporting the actual and instantaneous MPG. The total is 99 mpg and the delay is about less then 1/2 second (I have not actually timed this because this delay is of no real value to me and I have never found the cell in any ECU to change this yet! ) However I do know part of this delay come from the information reported to the ECU from the manifold air pressure sensor??






My indicated average MPG history is from this morning taking my wife to work, going and getting coffee and taking a slow scenic route back home, stopping to take pictures along the way. LOL

 

Yes and even a heck of a lot more then that document shows. I monitor thing like the % of pedal angle and ignition timing contently among several other area's of the ECU reporting. I have 9 screen pages of up to 8 lines of information that I set depending on what I am looking for or just want to monitor it behavior

 

Wow, thanks.

 

You obviously don't understand the amount of testing Mazda puts into to programming the shift points in the auto transmission. Probably about 100 times more hours than your recommended comparison testing methodology and with more precise measurement and analysis hardware and software than the information you're getting from the car's MPG displays.

My opinion (and experience) is the only thing you can really do to get any significant improvement in MPG (assuming you are already purposely driving with a style that is using the longest/smoothest/least amount of acceleration - without pissing the people off behind you) is to deactivate the radar cruise control and let the car coast when you are approaching slower moving traffic rather than let the cruise control trigger the brakes when it hits the cruise control follow distance behind another car and then gradually speed up slower than the cruise control would letting the distance grow larger and catching up more slowly rather than letting the cruise control basically just brake and then accelerate harder to more closely mimic the poor brake then gun it driving style of most idiots on the freeway.