non-turbo cx-5...helpful or useless on this car?...running one on another vehicle and it seems to be helpful...

https://www.jlosc.com/j-l-oil-separa...roduct-reviews

 

I was asked several years ago ,well about around 2002 by my marketer that noticed an increase in oil catch cans appearing on the market. So nature I decided better engineer and design a "better mouse trap. I order several dozen and all of them stated to work. and some came with http to of to video's. Even now the internet is flooded with DIY as well those that sell and manufacture them. What I found and decided NOT to offer one is that 2 things applied for the working of them, gravity and worn out engine parts. Speed forward if you have a Mazda with a Skyactiv engine and say up to and less then 100k miles with no engine concerns a catch can will do anything for you. Unless you actually go out of your way to set up the condition to have high suspended vapor oil going into your PCV to your intake. This does not matter if you have a normally aspirated ,Turbocharged or Supercharged engine, if the engine is in good health a catch can will do nothing for you except look "KOOL"l under the hood! The other thing is if you do decide to get one anyway if the catch can ,,,well basically is under 150USD then it is a cheap knock off and will have internal parts that can not possibly do anything to actually catch oil vapor and not reduce the PCV air pressure and CFM that need to be there for most any PCV system to function properly. Here is the pother thing you seldom read about from retailers of catch cans, it takes at least 2 both on the breather and PCV side to be totally effective as they claim. So that means if you actually get a well design catch can and it is roughly about 200+ dollars you will need 2 for a complete catch can system. $ BUCKS!.
It is so much easier just to watch your spark plug for signs of oil and routinely when you clean your Throttle body off the intake to wipe out the inside of the intake manifold. Remember that Mazda intake has a unique bathtub oil catch revisor already designed in the intake and even that barely get much oil caught from the engine vapors.


Another thing if you read many reviews ....strangely most state how after they install an oil catch can it partially fill the can? Yet after that they say they barely saw any oil after that? Makes you go HMMMMM? lol


Oh one more thing, you can see the cheesiness of these catch cans that are really all the same one with only perhaps different mounting hardware when they advertise *this restriction. This clearly show that their product is UNIVERSAL and not well thought out for specific model vehcles.

*This product is NOT CARB (California Air Resource Board) Exempt. It is not for legal sale or use in the state of CA or any other states adopting CA emission standards and require a CA Executive Order (EO) number. Any orders placed for this item with a CA ship to address will be cancelled.

 

Personally I don't see the need for using one one these cars...

 

good info...thanks...so not really necessary on a new mazda...once it starts to have issues down the line it may be time to revisit...

any opinion on quick drain oil plugs?...have had fumotos on my previous cars just to keep things a little cleaner...never used valvomax...oil goes right back into the jug...allows for easy measurement of oil drained...

https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-picku...4-cx-5-2-5l-l4

https://www.valvomax.com/products/m1...rain-tube-****

 

um I hope you are refering to the engine oil pan and not installing it on an intake manifold?


Ok so here's the deal. Since the early times in the 1970's through J C Whitney even B&M and Mr Gaskit ect., has offered those fast engine and transmission oil drain plugs have been offered. Whist they don't tell you will have more accumulated sludge sediment develop on the bottom of you oil pane from their use. They raise the drain level of the oil so more old oil will remain in the pan then simply using the OEM drain plug by itself. There is very little to no windage in the lower pan area of automatic transmission and engine oil pan area's. So things settle and build up if not completely drained of oil. And even the best maintaining schedule of changing the oil and oil filter you will eventually get a build up. This is easiest to see in automatic Transmision that you must drop the pan to change the filter.
Yup I know I am posting a not to use about a product that is plastered with great reviews all over the internet. I only tell anyone that doubt is talk to shops that see firsthand what the inside of pans looks like from using Drain plug
them.

The best thing you can do is get a high quality drain plug magnet (Dimple Magnet) and not use those fast drain plugs. When you see how much gets collected on your drain plug magnet you will get a better idea what I am talking about.

 

thanks again...it would be on an oil pan...always looking to save a little time...i would think it would depend on the design of the pan...how the sump is laid out...what angle and where the plug is located on the sump (ideally straight down)...how far in the quick drain plug threads extend into the pan (ideally zero)...going to hold on this one for now...want to do an oil change to see how it goes first...figure i'll do my first one around 500 or 1000 miles...can't seem to find the dimple website...or is there a website that carries them for mazda?

 

No, it is because the threads stick to far up into the pan. And oil pan that has an angle are even worse for contain old oil during a draining. These are so bad if a customer has one in his Pan we will information him that the oil will not be as clean when changing and that the contaminates will enter the new oil in seconds going through the engine after the oil and filter service. This is not speculation but fact based from oil analysis as well actually testing those fast drain plugs. If you think about it save about what..... 30 thirty second to remove and replace a standard type oil drain plug? And then you spend money on new oil and filter only to have it contaminated as soon as you start the engine? auh ok?? If anyone reading this does not believe then do a simple before and after oil analysis, when you see the results then there is not question (well smarter people) will stop using them!
I and a few other have posted oil analysis on this forum. I think my first was done at about 3-4 k miles and the next analysis was 5 k after that I think interest members can go find them. Also the transmission pan service and oilk anlized as well at about 15k miles.

Blackstone Laboratories Blackstone Laboratories (blackstone-labs.com)


I can also add and because I am not saying which platform so I am not advertising anything or promoting a product and do not wish to on Mazda forums (besides I don't do anything for Mazda aftermarket parts to much junk to have to compete with my quality) I have a few performance transmission and engine oil pans available. One of the things I engineer or design into the pans is the bung gets welded to the outside of the pan so during oil draining the oil simply drain with no obstructions. On at least one of my deep pans the drain plug side depth is about 1/4 inch lower then the opposite side which promotes more complete draining. It also allows for spraying solvent (WD-40) directly into the oil pan and cleaning the bottom of the oil pan.
I will tell you that changing either transmission or engine oil unless you are racing track only less then at least 3000 miles will not really allow the oil to do a proper job. I know some think differently but here again you can debate empirical data . Blackstone Oil labs , the buck stops there with DIY and professionals guessing things they think is correct but really isn't


BTW if you go to my personal thread you will actually see how much dirty residue oil comes out of the pan even after I drain the oil to the point there is not even a drip . When spraying WD_40 into the drain plug hole it takes several OZs of WD-40 before it starts to drain clean.
If you visit my thread please read and follow the FIRST post. Thank You.
Mazda3 Things I like to do - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums


I will tell you that changing either transmission or engine oil unless you are racing track only less then at least 3ooo miles will not really allow the oil to do a proper job. I know some think differently but here again you can debate empirical data . Blackstone Oil labs , the buck stops there with DIY and professionals guessing things they think is correct but really isn't

WOW! I know that Dimple retired and sold his business but your right I cant find them direct only retailers? I cant answer that right now but will later????

 

thanks for the detailed info...i plan on doing 5k mile oil changes...i will probably do my first one around 1k miles miles to get any impurities out...i plan to pick up a gold plug instead of dimple since i can't find dimple...now i need to do some homework on here for oil, oil filters and a maybe good service manual...i have mostly used youtube for most things as photos in service manuals are not always clear

 

Just beware many oil Drian plug magnets that have extended rods have been known to separate or just break off because of very poor quality material used and I have found in customers oil pans or coming out during an oil change.
Not going to say which bran(s) .
The drain plug magnet you should get is at least with the magnet should be flush with the threads.

The impurities you mention are not exactly what you think? And it takes the engine to about 15k miles to fully break in all the new internal parts so a 5 k filter and oil change is a great plan.
The other thing is I would recommend that you NOT do a first oil change before 3-5k miles. During that very crucial period of a new engine, you want all the assembly lube and other protectants to remain in the engine

I forgot to mention because for me it is not only common sense but an actual requirement for servicing the Mazda Drian plug. Buy a pack of drain plug aluminum washers and make sure you change the evetime you do an oil change. Trust me a good Auto Tech can see if you reused a drain plug washer. Aside from them leaking there are other tailtale signs.

 

thanks...that is what i am afraid of with this votex mag plug...the way it's made it looks like the rod could just separate at some point so i'm hesitant to buy this...still looking for a m14-1.5 goldplug...3k mile first oil change it is then...yes swapping crush washers is common sense...

https://votex-us.com/Mazda-cx-5-stai...er-4-cylinder/