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Old 06-28-2022, 04:06 AM
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I have a 2014 cx5 grand touring and am not getting any cold coming from the ac i bought a can of the r134 a refrigerant but for some reason it won't go into the system I push the button on the can to release the refrigerant but it just comes out of the base of the can ? its doesn't seem to be going from the can to the Nossle and into the port on the low side ?what might be the reason ?
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by hotchocalate2022
I have a 2014 cx5 grand touring and am not getting any cold coming from the ac i bought a can of the r134 a refrigerant but for some reason it won't go into the system I push the button on the can to release the refrigerant but it just comes out of the base of the can ? its doesn't seem to be going from the can to the Nossle and into the port on the low side ?what might be the reason ?

If it is firmly seated on the low side port, it should go in. I assume when you removed the cap off the port, the valve inside was clean. I'm trying to visualize how it can come out of the can when you press the button but the can doesn't leak. You did pull the release ring before pressing the connections down and letting it snap into place didn't you?
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 10:47 AM
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Well you should first be checking if the compressor clutch is actuating when you set the AC on MAX. The radiator fans should also come on. Then you should check the static pressure of the freon in your system before adding. This way you will not damage your AC system. If you purchased a freon with gauge kit you would at least have the safety features built in. But just adding freon without doing basic diagnostic checking first is not the way to go!
Your post really tells nothing to suggest that you are only low on freon. And if you are low to the point that the AC compressor clutch is not engaging than you have a leak which you should try to find.
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 02:31 PM
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As Callisto called it, always get a kit with gauge, otherwise you have no idea how much is in your system.
I'm not being a wise *** here but be sure you have the correct port as well.
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lobstah
As Callisto called it, always get a kit with gauge, otherwise you have no idea how much is in your system.
I'm not being a wise *** here but be sure you have the correct port as well.

The old R-12 systems used the design from 1939 on their hardware. It was really easy to hook them up wrong. When I was trained, the instructor said to check the gauges before hooking a refrigerant supply so you KNOW which is the high side. That's also where the term "grenades" for individual cans comes from. The R-134 system is such that you can't hook it up wrong. The high and low ports are different sizes. A charge kit won't hook up to the high side. It's too big. However, getting a kit is a good idea. I use a manifold gauge set.

As for leaks, the number of the refrigerant refers to the molecular size. R-134 is a much smaller molecule than R-12 and can ablate through a solid hose.
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:23 PM
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LOL if you were trained than you would have known by looking which was the low port and which was the high port!! But I understand that if questioned and no one that knows what they are doing is around to ask than the gauges are the way to most of the time tell. You do realize that there is bad situation that both high and low port can equalize and unless you know which port is which you have evn a bigger problem going on. LOL
Those small R12 "exploding" were most of the time from DIY NOT shops!

Ablate!!! really you used that word? lol NO R134 in a sealed system that has no leaks in the first place or a known conditional problem due to usage or none service eventually start to leak? There are decades of vehicles in some auto recycler's that have no regulations to remove refrigerants that are still holding pressure and full freon dating back to perhaps 30 years or more?
 
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Old 06-28-2022, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Callisto
LOL if you were trained than you would have known by looking which was the low port and which was the high port!! But I understand that if questioned and no one that knows what they are doing is around to ask than the gauges are the way to most of the time tell. You do realize that there is bad situation that both high and low port can equalize and unless you know which port is which you have evn a bigger problem going on. LOL
Those small R12 "exploding" were most of the time from DIY NOT shops!

Ablate!!! really you used that word? lol NO R134 in a sealed system that has no leaks in the first place or a known conditional problem due to usage or none service eventually start to leak? There are decades of vehicles in some auto recycler's that have no regulations to remove refrigerants that are still holding pressure and full freon dating back to perhaps 30 years or more?

I'll bet you're the life of the party, at say, a funeral. Both high and low ports on the R-12 used a regular Schroeder valve with the same size cap. They are identical. R-134 was a more rational design. R-134 came in around 1994. When I took a refresher course run by Chrysler, the cooling rate at that time was 80% of an older system. Combined with large green house on the designs at that time, the a/c just didn't work as well. Decades of cars will be R-12 with the larger molecules. Usually, loss is from seals but in the 1990's, there was a lot of trouble with hoses seeping the refrigerant out through the hose body. I'm sure research has progressed to slow the seepage, but it has happened. By the way, pulling air in on recirculate is required by Federal standards. Since the early 1970's, the fan never really shuts off when the system s active. This is to provide positive pressure in the cabin to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.
 
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Old 06-29-2022, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Grouch
I'll bet you're the life of the party, at say, a funeral. Both high and low ports on the R-12 used a regular Schroeder valve with the same size cap. They are identical. R-134 was a more rational design. R-134 came in around 1994. When I took a refresher course run by Chrysler, the cooling rate at that time was 80% of an older system. Combined with large green house on the designs at that time, the a/c just didn't work as well. Decades of cars will be R-12 with the larger molecules. Usually, loss is from seals but in the 1990's, there was a lot of trouble with hoses seeping the refrigerant out through the hose body. I'm sure research has progressed to slow the seepage, but it has happened. By the way, pulling air in on recirculate is required by Federal standards. Since the early 1970's, the fan never really shuts off when the system s active. This is to provide positive pressure in the cabin to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.
First I don't post BS and if I have not personally experienced or have training on any subject I just don't post or I state up front that I am guessing.
I am sure for some reading this if you are a pilot like myself than you get this exactly because it is part of our thought processing and more so as you fly with greater number or greater number of engines or thrust producing power plants!!!
LOL I never said you were completely incorrect or inaccurate .... and you clearly read what you wanted from my response. LOL
If you're going to post your experience as a "mechanic", why can't you be at least accurate with more of your information? LOL
BTW your so called problem universally was not a BIG problem as you seem to be implying. Maybe you should do your own research and see what the basic remedy was? LOL
Or maybe you should do a refresher course on service the HVAC system's ?
I
 
  #9  
Old 07-04-2022, 03:03 AM
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ok guy's now that everyone is in a heated debate about freon I know I hooked the can up to the correct port like we all sise it only fits on one port . I cant tell if the condensor or compressor is kicking in where would this be located ?
 
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Old 07-04-2022, 08:00 AM
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Open the hood it's on the left front of the engine below the alternator.
This video will show you where it is located.
 


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