Help with fault codes please
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2024
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From: Midlands
Help with fault codes please
Hi all.
Just brought a 3 year old car and has these fault codes the dealer is saying its perfectly fine and even new cars would have these faults
It's a 2.5 petrol none turbo
BATTERY VOLTAGE FAULT U3003 16-03
INJECTOR RANGE PERFORMANCE P1200 00 28 BRAKE PEDAL/ACC PEDAL POSTION INCOMPLETE P2299 00 2R
Just brought a 3 year old car and has these fault codes the dealer is saying its perfectly fine and even new cars would have these faults
It's a 2.5 petrol none turbo
BATTERY VOLTAGE FAULT U3003 16-03
INJECTOR RANGE PERFORMANCE P1200 00 28 BRAKE PEDAL/ACC PEDAL POSTION INCOMPLETE P2299 00 2R
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,665
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From: Northern California
Welcome to the forum
Then they would not be called "fault" codes now would they.
I am surprised that anyone in the service business would claim they are normal?
I first suggest that you have your battery load tested
Start with this first!
Then report back after what I think (guessing by what you posed only but with little information to other then guess) is a failing battery and you replaced it?
Then they would not be called "fault" codes now would they.
I am surprised that anyone in the service business would claim they are normal?
I first suggest that you have your battery load tested
Start with this first!
Then report back after what I think (guessing by what you posed only but with little information to other then guess) is a failing battery and you replaced it?
Last edited by Callisto; Aug 10, 2024 at 01:59 PM. Reason: would to would not
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2021
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From: Maine
A real "honest and reputable dealer/seller" would never tell anyone a "fault code" is perfectly fine because as Cali said, they aren't.
In fact, it is illegal in most countries, including Great Britian, if the seller doesn't inform the buyer if the vehicle has fault codes.
The circumstances of your purchase would determine who will ultimately pay for any repairs, but the codes need to addressed in order to find out and fix the issues.
In fact, it is illegal in most countries, including Great Britian, if the seller doesn't inform the buyer if the vehicle has fault codes.
The circumstances of your purchase would determine who will ultimately pay for any repairs, but the codes need to addressed in order to find out and fix the issues.
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Junior Member
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From: Midlands
Thanks for the replies.
The car was brought from mazda as a approved used I've had I a week
I took it to a garage to get checked over and it came up with these faults.
I haven't replaced anything as I deem it to be mazda who should be putting the car right
The car was brought from mazda as a approved used I've had I a week
I took it to a garage to get checked over and it came up with these faults.
I haven't replaced anything as I deem it to be mazda who should be putting the car right
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Queensland Australia
Unless you are experience issues with the vehicle "U" codes are communication only codes & in general don't cause problems in Mazda's.
P2299 is from someone pressing the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at the same time.
Google says for DTC P1200 it requires fuel injector cleaner.
P2299 is from someone pressing the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at the same time.
Google says for DTC P1200 it requires fuel injector cleaner.
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From: --------
U3003 is simply low voltage warning (voltage supplied is lower than 9V for 5s or more), it's very likely because of low battery charge. P2299 also not critical.
P1200, on the other hand, is somewhat serious. It's PCM telling you that it close to available fuel trim limit. Mazda says:
First step is to add deposit cleaner and drive 1000-2000 miles. If you're lucky, fault will go away 
P1200, on the other hand, is somewhat serious. It's PCM telling you that it close to available fuel trim limit. Mazda says:
Possible cause • Deposit accumulation in fuel system related parts due to inferior fuel supplied
P1200:00 is a DTC for indicating that deposit accumulation is progressing in the fuel system. If deposit accumulation further progresses, DTC P0171:00 may be stored and the check engine light may turn on.
• If the PCM predicts that DTC P0171:00 will be stored in the future based on the history of the fuel correction amount while driving for the last 2,400 km {1,491 miles}, a DTC is stored.
• Deposit is removed by adding deposit cleaner at the timing when DTC P1200:00 was stored.
P1200:00 is a DTC for indicating that deposit accumulation is progressing in the fuel system. If deposit accumulation further progresses, DTC P0171:00 may be stored and the check engine light may turn on.
• If the PCM predicts that DTC P0171:00 will be stored in the future based on the history of the fuel correction amount while driving for the last 2,400 km {1,491 miles}, a DTC is stored.
• Deposit is removed by adding deposit cleaner at the timing when DTC P1200:00 was stored.
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From: Massachusetts
U3003 is simply low voltage warning (voltage supplied is lower than 9V for 5s or more), it's very likely because of low battery charge. P2299 also not critical.
P1200, on the other hand, is somewhat serious. It's PCM telling you that it close to available fuel trim limit. Mazda says:
First step is to add deposit cleaner and drive 1000-2000 miles. If you're lucky, fault will go away
P1200, on the other hand, is somewhat serious. It's PCM telling you that it close to available fuel trim limit. Mazda says:
First step is to add deposit cleaner and drive 1000-2000 miles. If you're lucky, fault will go away
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,665
Likes: 233
From: Northern California
U3003 is simply low voltage warning (voltage supplied is lower than 9V for 5s or more), it's very likely because of low battery charge. P2299 also not critical.
P1200, on the other hand, is somewhat serious. It's PCM telling you that it close to available fuel trim limit. Mazda says:
First step is to add deposit cleaner and drive 1000-2000 miles. If you're lucky, fault will go away
P1200, on the other hand, is somewhat serious. It's PCM telling you that it close to available fuel trim limit. Mazda says:
First step is to add deposit cleaner and drive 1000-2000 miles. If you're lucky, fault will go away
NO!!! The first step is always health check the battery by way of a load test. Also, careful check the battery connection at the battery and the ground at the chassis or frame. Then the positive(power) cable to the starter.
The best thing is NOT to add any fluid additive to the fuel until you have first verified all the ECU fault information. Doing so can cause additional problem to resolve/ There is an order to diagnostic steps and resolving issues that "must" be done in a specific order. My suggestion based on several of your responses is to take a home corse in new vehcle Dignostic troubleshooting because your informa so far since you joined is old school at best! There are some members that have DIY skill but they are few. On this forum we are fortunate to have have 4 Certifide Mazda tranined techncians as well ASE Certifde mechaic and or Techncians.
BTW PCM,ECU,TCM ect ., DO NOT TELL anything! They only report from sensors and other input if those perimeters are in positive state of operation. However, there are thousands of scenarios that cause anomalies codes activated. The need to understand each code and the possible causes and then look at each part and it values including not only good or bad but also connect ability. This goes back to having some schooling in Automotive Diagnostics is a must to prevent false service procedures that likely can and often cost more to service and resolve.
Car Repair Advice Forum= at your own risk - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums
Ya....
I can tell you have done that once or twice as I have in your life. 
I am not really sure I would do that on a Skyactiv engine (DI) with a balance shaft assembly and likely an engine that has had little ignition service or fuel system the same. It may be ending with the "BIG BANG THEORY " of the evolution in the total destruction of a running gear. lol
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2024
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From: Midlands
NO!!! The first step is always health check the battery by way of a load test. Also, careful check the battery connection at the battery and the ground at the chassis or frame. Then the positive(power) cable to the starter.
The best thing is NOT to add any fluid additive to the fuel until you have first verified all the ECU fault information. Doing so can cause additional problem to resolve/ There is an order to diagnostic steps and resolving issues that "must" be done in a specific order. My suggestion based on several of your responses is to take a home corse in new vehcle Dignostic troubleshooting because your informa so far since you joined is old school at best! There are some members that have DIY skill but they are few. On this forum we are fortunate to have have 4 Certifide Mazda tranined techncians as well ASE Certifde mechaic and or Techncians.
BTW PCM,ECU,TCM ect ., DO NOT TELL anything! They only report from sensors and other input if those perimeters are in positive state of operation. However, there are thousands of scenarios that cause anomalies codes activated. The need to understand each code and the possible causes and then look at each part and it values including not only good or bad but also connect ability. This goes back to having some schooling in Automotive Diagnostics is a must to prevent false service procedures that likely can and often cost more to service and resolve.
Car Repair Advice Forum= at your own risk - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums
Ya.... I can tell you have done that once or twice as I have in your life.
I am not really sure I would do that on a Skyactiv engine (DI) with a balance shaft assembly and likely an engine that has had little ignition service or fuel system the same. It may be ending with the "BIG BANG THEORY " of the evolution in the total destruction of a running gear. lol
The best thing is NOT to add any fluid additive to the fuel until you have first verified all the ECU fault information. Doing so can cause additional problem to resolve/ There is an order to diagnostic steps and resolving issues that "must" be done in a specific order. My suggestion based on several of your responses is to take a home corse in new vehcle Dignostic troubleshooting because your informa so far since you joined is old school at best! There are some members that have DIY skill but they are few. On this forum we are fortunate to have have 4 Certifide Mazda tranined techncians as well ASE Certifde mechaic and or Techncians.
BTW PCM,ECU,TCM ect ., DO NOT TELL anything! They only report from sensors and other input if those perimeters are in positive state of operation. However, there are thousands of scenarios that cause anomalies codes activated. The need to understand each code and the possible causes and then look at each part and it values including not only good or bad but also connect ability. This goes back to having some schooling in Automotive Diagnostics is a must to prevent false service procedures that likely can and often cost more to service and resolve.
Car Repair Advice Forum= at your own risk - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums
Ya....
I can tell you have done that once or twice as I have in your life. I am not really sure I would do that on a Skyactiv engine (DI) with a balance shaft assembly and likely an engine that has had little ignition service or fuel system the same. It may be ending with the "BIG BANG THEORY " of the evolution in the total destruction of a running gear. lol
I have brought a cheap OBD scanner that'll arrive later today.
they told me the codes I posted above had been deleted, but i also had an independent garge check the car that's who found the codes in the first place delete them a week ago.
I'll give it a few days and check to see of they have come back.
