You may reconsider the use of those type of drain plugs( they have been around since the 70's in JC Whitney ) . As an engine machinist I have pulled many oil pans that used them and in almost all cases a sludge had built up at the lower level area of the pan because the valve does not allow for a complete draining of the pans oil.(this can be accurately measure)


As for not spilling a drop, I do oil changes in my garage and I dont have a problem making any mess. Accidents will happen there is nothing that will completely prevent that but I would not say that the use of a drain vale would eliminate all possible oil draining spills. LOL

 

For those contemplating using a magnetic drain plug, have you considered purchasing a small stand-alone Neodymium magnet and simply placing it on the inside end of your engine's drain plug. These magnets are incredibly strong, much less expensive than a purpose-built aftermarket plug, and can be stacked for increased synergistic gauss field strength. If you are forced to buy a bunch of them, it is still less expensive, possibly more effective than the purpose-built item, and you can have a ball playing with the left over magnets. Here is just one example............................ Frank

 

Yes except that when you drain your fluid what ever is on the magnet will remain in the pan. If anything you could simply place a ring magnet on the bottom of the oil filter.

Magnets on the outside of an oil pan will not work as theorized unless one plans to drop the pan frequently for servicing!
Here is the thing if you have that much metal in your engine you have bigger problems then choosing a magnet. The purpose for some of us to use super strong magnets is to capture and diagnose problems and possible problems. On a Dailey Driver a simple drain pug magnet will do fine!

Here is a a couple of ring magnets. One is a MAZDA factory and the other an aftermarket. Placing them on the bottom of the filter will do the job nicely and NO they will not fall off the oil filter. LOL

 

I have almost always had my oil and filter changed at the halfway mileage recommends change (Audi "recommends" every 10k, I changed every y5k). Are you saying for the 'initial" oil and filter changes that you recommend change at 1500miles then 3000miles then follow Mazda oil change recommendations?

 

Changing the oil at about 1500miles on new engines will ensure that you help to rid the crankcase and engine of partials during the initial run in and also to flush out other chemicals added to *assemble the engine and assist in the critical first few hour protection of a new engine. After about 1500 miles they are *no longer needed or really desired in a new engine.
I always recomend to change the oil and filter at 5000 miles ( I do 3k on my own personal engines) regardless of the schedule recommendation from auto manufacture or the claims of some oil distributors like Amzoil, Mobil 1 RedLine etc.... (I use all 3 of these to be clear)The only exception would be if you had your oil tested at 5k and the indication were positive to go another few thousand more miles. But the time you did that and invested in the test you may just as well do the oil and filter service.

This RECOMEDATION from me is for GASLONIE ENGINES ONLY

Other types of fuels like Methanol, Propane, Alcohol, Nitromethane all tend to keep the crankcase oils cleaner then using gasoline.

 

I will be using Mobil 1 when I change the oil. Do you know what the initial fill at the factory for the 2.5L Turbo engine is, i.e. dino or synthetic oil?

And, 5w-30 is specified for the viscosity; any problem with using 0w-40 weight oil?

Thanks

 

Well I know I will open the proverbial Pandora's box with this comment, but if you look at the Federal required Motor Oil specification and analysis none synthetic is not so behind synthetic oil for Turbocharged or Supercharged engine in platforms manufactured from about 2000. Never the less it just easier at this time to just use synthetic motor oils.
The oil viscosity used in any given engine should technically based on the operating condition of the engine. The recommendation from auto manufactures is generalized for ease of the average Joe/Jane and not necessarily the best choice globally to use in any given engine ! I use different oil viscosities in my 2018 MAZDA 3, 2.5, and all my SuperCharged and TurboCharged engines depending on the ambient temperature's of the season or if I am tracking the car.

To save another argument on the forum please members before you respond research and learn about the break down information as well other attributes of any oil suppler and the oil viscosity you are considering to use outside the auto manufacture recommendations before you assume MYTH and inaccurate information with no supporting empircal DATA that you may not know about motor oils! Also to ease a few of you about using your choice of brand and oil viscosity anyone using a different viscosity from the auto manufactures recommendation will not void any engine warranty and is protected under the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act as long as the recommendation does not state " DO NOT USE ANY OTHER OIL EXCEPT.........".

 

OLD SCHOOL mechanics often say to break-in with conventional oil, then go synthetic.
Perhaps not a bad idea, but some MFG's use a 'break-in' oil of some mysterious formula,
some do not. Corvette, supposedly, has synthetic in from the factory.
I was told to go the recommended 5000 miles on the factory fill and then change oil.
Dealer put Mobil-1 in.
Most modern autos "suggests" synthetic oil. A wise suggestion.
I have a stock of synthetic oil to use up, so It's Valvoline for now.


My 2¢

 

The C8 Corvettes oil change interval is now ~ 7500 miles or so, based on the Oil Life Monitor (OLM). And for the '21s, the first oil change within the first year is free as well. Oh and they specify the Mobil 1, DEXOS 2, 0w-40, which is a bit more costly.

I have been using synthetic oil in all our cars for years. But since our Mazda is turbocharged, I specifically want to use synthetics in order to minimize coking of the oil, which is detrimental to turbo seals, etc.

 

We would love to see some good pics of your CE with the pinstripes! I agree that the Polymetal color would benefit from some detailing...



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